Immediate help needed!!!!!!!
#11
Are you goin counter clockwise? Try changing directions with the impact midstream. Alternate from loosening to tightening without turning the trigger loose. See what that does. Sometimes that trick will break it loose.
#12
JK Super Freak
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Hahaha no map gas,,,,,well just put the tires back on and going to try to break it free
if this dosent work im putting the damn old one back on and saying f*** it.
if this dosent work im putting the damn old one back on and saying f*** it.
#13
JK Super Freak
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Spray it with some "nuts off" or wd40. Let it soak for 10 minutes and try again. Try the pipe that WOL said to get more leverage.
Try hitting the breaker bar with a large hammer to break it free.
Try hitting the breaker bar with a large hammer to break it free.
#15
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Damn just popped off after 2 hours and we are only half way done
IM DONE WITH DIY
Just kidding its always the experience you look back on and laugh
Now when i go to torch this pinion bolt back on do I torch as far as i can go or what.
IM DONE WITH DIY
Just kidding its always the experience you look back on and laugh
Now when i go to torch this pinion bolt back on do I torch as far as i can go or what.
#16
JK Super Freak
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Glad to hear you were able to get it. DIY can be challenging, but always leaves one with a feeling of accomplishment. That is... unless you f_ck it up, in which case it leaves you with a feeling of being a dubm@$$.
Oh... and when you say "torch it back on" I assume you mean torque it back on? There should be torque specifications in the instructions, but the writeup on here mentions finding the rotational torque first.
Oh... and when you say "torch it back on" I assume you mean torque it back on? There should be torque specifications in the instructions, but the writeup on here mentions finding the rotational torque first.
Last edited by MOWrangler; 01-07-2009 at 06:22 PM. Reason: paragraph 2
#17
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I couldn't break the front pinion yoke free with my hi lift handle on a wrench.... so I put a ratchet strap to the wrench back to the frame... cranked untill it popped free. Worked like a charm. I know a little late for that now. I can't believe any of you would have used heat to get that off... heat would have ruined the pinion seal. That would have been a waist.
#19
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I don't remember... I will look.. the transfer case one.. I just cranked as hard as I could. The pinion you have to be careful with. Too much torque and you will adjust the crush sleeve. Too little and your going to loosen up. I put silicone on the splines to aid in keeping the oil in and water out... and I used red thread lock on the pinion yoke. I used blue thread lock on the bolts that hold the ujoints on(I have U-joint yokes not flange yokes)
#20
The rear pinion I was able to get loose with a long breaker bar (Jeep sitting on all four tires), the front just wouldn't budge so I slid the floor jack under the breaker bar handle and a few pumps later it was loose.
I followed the Teraflex instructions on my install of the JE Reel 1310 front and 1350 rear.
90-130 ft lbs on the T-case nuts (red loctite).
160 ft lbs on the pinion nuts (red loctite).
No I did not do the rotational torque setting procedure, so far so good, checked the magnetic oil dipstick on my ARB covers this PM and all looks good.
And if it tears up, well then we'll know and I can get those new 5.13s I've been wanting.
I followed the Teraflex instructions on my install of the JE Reel 1310 front and 1350 rear.
90-130 ft lbs on the T-case nuts (red loctite).
160 ft lbs on the pinion nuts (red loctite).
No I did not do the rotational torque setting procedure, so far so good, checked the magnetic oil dipstick on my ARB covers this PM and all looks good.
And if it tears up, well then we'll know and I can get those new 5.13s I've been wanting.