Hello Everyone,

It's been a while since i had a Jeep. I used to have a 2015 Jeep Rubicon Hard Rock on 35's that was totaled. Miss having a Jeep but if i get a new one i need to build bigger and better than the last one. I want a Jeep that i can actually offroad and not be to scared of breaking down 4 hours from home. (nearest offroad park is 4hrs away) Just need some advice. I'm a rookie. Please only comment to be helpful, not looking for smart ass comments or fights in this thread. thank you

I'm looking to buy a 2016-2017 Jeep wrangler Unlimited Auto trans. I was actually thinking about buying the sport model and start with the mods but want to know what will i be missing out on by not buying the Rubicon this time? My plan is to go with 40" tires this time.

1) Was considering buying the Hard Core ProRock 60/60 Axle-Set .

2) Lift i have no clue. I used to have the AEV 3.5" on my last jeep and was very happy but not sure if that will work with this axel and tire size combo.

3) How does the transmission and transfer case hold up with this type of setup? What are others doing?

Please school me and tell me what else i need to worry about? I'm assuming the biggest cost was the axels but if there is some other big unknown let me know. I'm figuring that by starting with these axels im saving myself from headaches and having things break.

Thanks Guys

 

Add driveshafts,hydraulic assist, and wheels to the list as tons are going to be 8x6.5. You can run several sizes of lift, lots of people do 4" and do lots of trimming or you can run a big lift and lots of bump stop and trim little to non on the body. Might as well throw an atlas transfer case under it too for better gearing off road. I would say realistically you are looking at a $30-35K build on top of what the jeep is going to run you. Personally I would buy an older jeep and save a bit there instead of tearing up a brand new jeep but its your money and time.

You can throw all kinds of money on the jeep and you can still break down on the trail so that is not a realistic goal to search for. I don't care how built you are nothing is bulletproof.

 

Thanks for the info but if possible can you break down for me the 30-35k in mods? I just want to visualize it. thanks

 

Well the axles, wheels/tires, and atlas are going to run $20k steering assist $1500 1350 axles set $1500. A long arm lift in the 4"-6" range, shocks, light bars, air compressor, cage, winch, skids, armor, recovery gear, spare parts (you are still going to break stuff with 40's) and all the other crap that you want to put on the jeep. You can go cheap with this stuff or get quality but I can easily see $10k here. All this is if you are doing all the work yourself. Add another $5-10k if you are paying someone to do the work. Of course you can buy used parts and search around for stuff to save some coin but I was basing the numbers on buying new.

It will be a bad ass head turning jeep. Pick a bright color too if you really want people to stare.

After all this is done and you take it off road you find the trails are too easy to do and will look for harder more dangerous stuff to do that will have a high risk or roll over and body damage. You will also have a heavily molested jeep that will be hard to sell and where you will loose a ton of money on it if you decide to or are forced to sell it. If is a daily driver it will be chore to drive around town in, tight parking lots will suck as the extra width gains great stability in the ride but increased the turning radius. Highway performance will be less then stellar and you will be wondering how much it will cost to put an LS in it ($15-40k)

My general advise after going thru this process is to buy or build a bungie if your off roading can not be done on a JK with 35's, lockers, and proper gearing. Which is also a bad ass jeep with good driving manners and resale value.

 

^^^^ Have to agree with this. I built up to fit 37s and if I do it over again I'd just stay with a moderate lift and 35s.
I DD this one but it's a lot of money extra spent. Just to make a couple more inches of tire fit and work properly.

My advice. Special order a Rubi with 4.10, add a moderate lift and good tires. Then enjoy. As parts ware out replace them with better parts.

It's been my experience that, if you are the biggest guy in the group you are the tow truck. You either go first (take the chances) or last to bail everyone out that gets stuck. Been there.

 

You could also buy this one and put 35's on it as it is done and really a steal compared to just what a new sport is going to run. 1 way ticket to CO.
2009 Jeep Wrangler JK Rubicon Unlimited 4 Door - LOW MILES! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum

 

Thanks for all the info Dirtman

 

Can you explain a bit on what kind of expenses you had when you did the 37's? I saw people on the forum saying that if you sleeve and do gussets or maybe a truss. Right gears and a lift and that you should be good. What am i missing?

 

37's will generally be hard on JK, if a JKU its worse because of the extra weight. Pretty typical to snap rear shafts and bend them. Front U joints tend to go up front. Things like hydraulic assist are nice to have to protect the steering box but you can get by without it. You will typically need lower back spaced wheels around 3" so spacers with the factory wheels kinda goes out the window. You typically need 3"-4" of lift or you can do flat fenders and keep things lower. You want to do gears as well. 37's done right will typically run $8-10K but you can half ass it for less. I would not drive a half assed build on 37's 4 hours to wheel. AAA is good to have for the free tow when you break something.

 

And assuming i did spend that 10k to do it right. Or maybe even did a prorock setup for the 37's would you consider the jeep to as reliable as if i had 35's?