gorilla_

So I am having the constant battle of the death wobble (as we all do)... current situation seems that my adjustable track bar has some bad bushings which I am awaiting the replacement kit... but it also seems that the Drag Link (stock) is also shot on the passenger side. Anyone replace theirs with a heavy duty aftermarket one that they love? This current Jeep I have (2015 JKU) only has a Stage 1 Suspension by Pro Comp... they seem to have lost their quality with making decent kits... I am on my 3rd set of shocks (warranty replacement), rear adjustable track bar shot (still waiting for correct hardware from them since August) and now the front adjustable track bar that came with the kit - bushings are shot. This kit has only been on since January of this year with absolutely NO off-roading... this is only a daily driver.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

resharp001

Suspension components are definitely "you get what you pay for" type things. Unfortunately Pro Comp is what most would consider "budget friendly", but not high quality. In all honesty....and due to it's importance, I would rather spend money on a quality track bar, and just slap a replacement DL end in for the time being. Moog makes a DL end for ~$50 if the factory joint is shot and you are on a budget. Most manufacturers have moved away from that type of bushing in the frame side TB joint. Take a look at the joints other manufacturers are using.....there's a big difference.

gorilla_

Yes unfortunately the budget is a factor at this time in my life lol. This kit was $700 which was till up there. I now know never to buy anything from Pro Comp again. I'm gonna start with replacing the bushings when they arrive today or tomorrow (on the track bar). If the DL is shot as I am suspecting then your idea does make sense (for the current situation).

Appreciate the response.

resharp001

Moog DS300005 is the number. It will say "tie rod end", but it is indeed the replacement for the factory DL end. It's not a dramatic improvement over the factory, but it is at least greasable and would be the cheapest option.

There are indeed several quality DLs out there should you choose to go that route....I'd just prefer a quality TB over those given your situation. If you really had true DW.....be sure to take a good look at the frame side TB bracket holes and confirm they have not wallowed out a bit due to the process.

nthinuf

Did you have deathwobble before the lift, or only since it went on? As part of the install, did you verify torque on all components?

To me, this sounds to be not necessarily 'procomp sucks', but more like repeated deathwobble keeps affecting multiple components. Over and over and over. I doubt it matters which mfg you choose or how much you pay for the new super heavy duty part, if you keep having instances of deathwobble, it is going to fail early also.

You may need to just bite the bullet and replace multiple components at the same time.

Rednroll

For steering components the Steer smart Yeti's are likely the best out there but can be expensive. $400

When I shopped around for an HD drag link replacement, the best bang for the buck drag link seemed to be the Synergy. I think I picked mine up on sale for $175. I have no complaints other than an OCD annoyance where it droops very close to my tie rod.

kjeeper10

Yea death wobble starts with the track bar. With repeated wobbles i would pull the track bar and make sure the holes are not egged out. If not re torque to 125- ft lbs. also make sure the bushings are not bad on each end. If they are ovaled out you will need to weld em up or use washers to take out the play. I would also brace the upper mount with Synergy's frame side brace. 90% of the time death wobble is track bar related. Not to say other lose or worn parts cant help contribute to it.

T&ERun

I have been very happy with my Currie set up. It's expensive, but IMO one of the best out there. I'm on 1 tons now, but I ran it with my D44 front. The kit uses all 1 ton parts and they are much larger/stronger than stock. It used to be called Currie CorrectLink. Not sure if they are still called that.

PsychoCupcake

Multiple comments here...

For one, yes, look to the track bar first when diagnosing death wobble. And it's not just about the bushings. Check the axle and frame side track bar brackets to see if the mounting holes have been wallowed out. It doesn't take much, but even a slight enlargement of those holes can be the culprit for death wobble. Certainly joints that are shot don't help anything either, so upgrading/replacing those is important as well.

When it comes to steering, as someone else mentioned, you really do get what you pay for. If you go for budget options, expect them to not last long and you'll be replacing parts on a regular basis. A lot of companies pound their chest about having "the best" 1 ton steering out there... generally they are all about the same. The shaft part of the tie rod is usually made out of chromoloy, or if you spend bigger bucks, 1.5" OD solid aluminum. Personally, I've seen both of these bend on the trail when they take a good hit from a rock. The GM 1 ton ends are all basically the same, and only marginally better than stock. They still wear out fairly quickly and will require replacement. Also worth noting, if you ever go to hydro assist, you need a tie rod that is going to hold up to the force of the ram. That will wear components more quickly, and make tie rods look like flimsy noodles if they aren't beefy enough.

So, my vote goes to Fusion 4x4 for steering components. Is it expensive? Yes. BUT it's 1.75" OD solid 7075 T6511 aluminum (pure beef) and uses Rare Parts forged ends and cartridges. And the best part is that their steering comes with a 100% no questions asked lifetime warranty. You break something, you bend something, they replace it. Try asking other companies if they'll warranty your bent tie rod after you slam into a rock on the trail. They won't. So, while you can go with the budget option and replace parts as they wear out or break (and spend more money), you can spend the money once, up front, and never spend another dollar on steering. I've been running Fusion steering for almost 2 years now and wheel my Jeep hard and often. The ends are still as solid as the day I installed it.

Also, at risk of this sounding too much like a sales pitch, Fusion is also offering 15% off their steering through November 28th. Worth checking out.

ShutterBug

You should also check your ball joints.

Follow Planman's death wobble diagnosis videos. It'll help you narrow down the culprit.

FWIW, I run a Rock Krawler track bar, Teraflex ball joints and Synergy tie rod and flipped drag link.