I did consider 33s. Less hassle with not having to mod much. But after I got to looking at pictures of rigs with the 35s I decided I really liked he bigger tire. I ended up deciding against going bigger with he 4""+ lifts because I really don't need that. I like the 2.5" area and it's enough to fit the tires I want. I don't expect to be going on some crazy trails or anything. But like I said, I would like to hit up Moab.

Sea bass, did you use a kit or buy your arms individually?

 

I don't know which offroad difficulty level you see yourself doing, but mentioning Moab makes me think you aim at more than easy trails.
Yes, your Jeep is very capable as is. However, if you intend to get more than what the stock Jeep can do, I'd say this:

The two factors which contribute the most to offroad capabilities are the tires (type, size & proper pressure), and the approach, departure & break over angles -- the lift.
IMO, there's no point in lifting just a bit, because the increase in capability would be just just a bit.
If on budget, I'd stretch the mods over a longer period, but do it right.
I know that if I settled for 33"s and 2.5" lift, I'd have later regretted it, move to 35"s and 3~4", and the bottom line would have been spending more than if I took my time, but did it right in the first place.

2.5" and 35"s is pretty good for the 2-dr. For the longer wheelbase of the 4-dr, it's not enough for many obstacles.

 

I have a lot to consider now. Thanks for everyone's input, I really appreciate it.

 

It also wouldn't be a bad idea to read through a few threads on front housing upgrades. Whether or not you decide you need gussets/sleeves/truss/etc, it is good to at least know what they do and get some opinions.

 

Yes, very good advice here. I personally think that anyone going above 33" tires should have gussets, even if they don't take their Jeep off road. The C's can bend even from a good pothole.

 

I ended up bending the drop brackets so ordered just the lower arms from northridge. Was able to dial on my Castor.

2.5" is a good starting point. I still drug my belly a lot in moab - especially on moab rim trail but not enough to hinder too much. You'll be able to do 95% of the trails with that set up

 

would it be a better idea to hold off on the lift a little while and save up some $ and just go with the 3'' teraflex lift that come with all 8 adjustable control arms? then add an adjustable front track bar and steering stabilizer?

 

As you go taller on the suspension lift, you open yourself up to more problems - and the associated costs. Have you considered a new front driveshaft? A draglink flip? At what point will you want/need either? How about the control arms, will you need all 8? Or would a single set at either end let you tilt the housings enough to set the caster/pinion?

If it hasn't been mentioned, and if you haven't already read it, spend a few minutes in dirtmans thread stuck to the top of this modified area. It is a good place to start. Then expand on it to hopefully get a handle on the problems caused by lifting, what the various components actually do, and why you might choose one type of component over a different one that performs a similar function.

 

i think it would be okay to not have all 8 arms, but it would be nice. if im not going huge and staying at or under 3'' will the drive shaft be a big concern? im trying to keep the cost to a minimum, but i have considered a longer driveshaft. im still researching that right now also. some people say to take measurement for a custom fit and some say a pre fit will work fine. my biggest concern right now is not going overboard for what i want to get out of my jeep. i want to be able to have some fun in it, but still be able to drive comfortably at 70mph down the highway. if i do the 3'' with 35s i will want to regear. pretty sure mine has the 3.21s in it right now. and by having the a D30, that will limit me on the gears i can put in it correct?

 

Do their 3" coils give 3 inches of lift? Or more? (I am sitting closer to 5" on my 3.5" MC coils. I haven't followed any TF threads recently, so I don't know what lift height to expect, just a heads up to have an idea going into it.)

The reason people lose stock drivesahfts is because taller lifts cause steeper joint angles. The angles cause the joints to pinch and eventually wear through the rubber boot. Then the joint spits out all the grease, dries out, and seizes. You will see people saying you are ok at height X, but you will lose a shaft at height Y. Garbage. It's about the overall setup, how and where you drive, and plain ole luck. People on here have lost them with as little as 2.5", others are still ok at 4 or more. Make a habit of crawling underneath and looking!

Some places will have you measure, others don't. The JK has been out long enough that most of the shops know how long to make them, just measure your actual lift height and let them know.

One set of arms at each end will do the job. Add the second sets later if/when you get around to it.

5.38's are available for d30's again, so you aren't limited there. Same ratios as the d44's. From a strength perspective, judgement call time. Depends on your use. If you do have 3.21's, remember that you will need a new carrier when going to 3.73 or higher. (or a full case locker/limited. *cough* TrueTrac *cough* )