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Lug Nut Torque

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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 08:11 AM
  #21  
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i keep mine at 110.
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Old Jul 25, 2008 | 08:20 AM
  #22  
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95 for me.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 05:14 AM
  #23  
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Default Pro-Comp 7089

I had put Pro-Comp 7089's on my JK, and the lugs continue to loosen. I lost a wheel and replaced quite a few studs. The torque for the wheel should be 85ft lbs, but its not accroding to Pro Comp, its Jeep who sets the standard, the spec is for the studs, not the lugs.

That being said, I have had no luck with the 7089's. I bought 4, damaged one when it became too loose. Bought another, bought an entire set of lugs AGAIN, studs. It's redicilous. 4WD.com is taking them all back. I am considering a steel wheel but not from Pro Comp. When I called them they gave me a song and dance about 25 miles to torque and all that. I re-torque my wheels all the time, they are always loose. The teflon coating MAY be to blame? Its just my thought. the vibration of the jeep and the lack of the lugs "Face" being so marrow all add up to the lug not having enough ability to stick to the semi-slickened surface.

Looking at a few steel wheels, but I dont want to paint centercaps. I want black, and I want it all factory.

I am looking at the ATX (American Racing) mojave. Anybody got any input?
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 05:57 AM
  #24  
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Seems like I read somwhere 95 for a DD and 110 if you wheel..Anyway, my Pro Comps (steel) are set to 110 and have not come loose at all..YMMV
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 07:32 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Jeffola
I had put Pro-Comp 7089's on my JK, and the lugs continue to loosen. I lost a wheel and replaced quite a few studs. The torque for the wheel should be 85ft lbs, but its not accroding to Pro Comp, its Jeep who sets the standard, the spec is for the studs, not the lugs.

That being said, I have had no luck with the 7089's. I bought 4, damaged one when it became too loose. Bought another, bought an entire set of lugs AGAIN, studs. It's redicilous. 4WD.com is taking them all back. I am considering a steel wheel but not from Pro Comp. When I called them they gave me a song and dance about 25 miles to torque and all that. I re-torque my wheels all the time, they are always loose. The teflon coating MAY be to blame? Its just my thought. the vibration of the jeep and the lack of the lugs "Face" being so marrow all add up to the lug not having enough ability to stick to the semi-slickened surface.

Looking at a few steel wheels, but I dont want to paint centercaps. I want black, and I want it all factory.

I am looking at the ATX (American Racing) mojave. Anybody got any input?
I tighten my procomps to 95-100lbs and have no problems. My tire store says a 100!
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 08:12 AM
  #26  
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i work at discount tire and the correct torqe specs for a jeep is 110. jeep may reccomend something like 95-110. but from a saftey standpoint we always torqe to the higher of the two numbers.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 08:44 AM
  #27  
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I've had mine at 95lbs for almost 33k miles with no problems
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 11:06 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jeffola
I had put Pro-Comp 7089's on my JK, and the lugs continue to loosen. I lost a wheel and replaced quite a few studs. The torque for the wheel should be 85ft lbs, but its not accroding to Pro Comp, its Jeep who sets the standard, the spec is for the studs, not the lugs.

That being said, I have had no luck with the 7089's. I bought 4, damaged one when it became too loose. Bought another, bought an entire set of lugs AGAIN, studs. It's redicilous. 4WD.com is taking them all back. I am considering a steel wheel but not from Pro Comp. When I called them they gave me a song and dance about 25 miles to torque and all that. I re-torque my wheels all the time, they are always loose. The teflon coating MAY be to blame? Its just my thought. the vibration of the jeep and the lack of the lugs "Face" being so marrow all add up to the lug not having enough ability to stick to the semi-slickened surface.

Looking at a few steel wheels, but I dont want to paint centercaps. I want black, and I want it all factory.

I am looking at the ATX (American Racing) mojave. Anybody got any input?
Ive always heard that anytime you put a new wheel (never been on a car) on you need to check and re-tighten the lugs every 50 miles for 100 miles.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:01 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Jeffola
I had put Pro-Comp 7089's on my JK, and the lugs continue to loosen. I lost a wheel and replaced quite a few studs. The torque for the wheel should be 85ft lbs, but its not accroding to Pro Comp, its Jeep who sets the standard, the spec is for the studs, not the lugs.

That being said, I have had no luck with the 7089's. I bought 4, damaged one when it became too loose. Bought another, bought an entire set of lugs AGAIN, studs. It's redicilous. 4WD.com is taking them all back. I am considering a steel wheel but not from Pro Comp. When I called them they gave me a song and dance about 25 miles to torque and all that. I re-torque my wheels all the time, they are always loose. The teflon coating MAY be to blame? Its just my thought. the vibration of the jeep and the lack of the lugs "Face" being so marrow all add up to the lug not having enough ability to stick to the semi-slickened surface.

Looking at a few steel wheels, but I dont want to paint centercaps. I want black, and I want it all factory.

I am looking at the ATX (American Racing) mojave. Anybody got any input?
Are the 7089's hub-centric? With the problems you're having I doubt it. I'm told that the factory wheels on most new vehicles are hub-centric like the JK is. On a hub-centric wheel the hub bears the shear lead and the lug nuts just hold the wheel on. In non hub-centric after market wheels the lugs and lug nuts bear all the shear load.

I run the AEV Pintlers, which are hub-centric, at 95# of torque and have had no problem. For what it's worth here are the dry torque specs for 1/2 x 20 threads:

Bolt size - Thread pitch 1/2-20, Grade 2 is 64, Grade 5 is 90, Grade 8 is 110

As you can see 110 is really getting up there and you don't really want to overtorque as doing so will weaken the bolt and can ultimately lead to failure. If I had a non hub-centric wheel I'd probably go to 105#.
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Old Feb 27, 2009 | 12:17 PM
  #30  
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I've always used 95-100. Never had a problem.
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