jnabird333

While I haven't off roaded much yet with my MC system installed I have zero squeaking. I used to with the stock suspension when I had bolt on front LCA skids. I could never get them tight enough to not move and cause squeaking when flexing. I finally canned them and welded some on to resolve this.

Correction wedges will help the spring bow some, but the ultimate fix is to either cut and reweld the perches or cut and install the Synergy bolt on perches rotated to better geometry. (I'm not sure it the later will work with all rear track bar brackets.) I plan to cut, rotate, and reweld my perches when it gets warmer.

It is best to do a lot of this while you are installing your lift. basically you want to install everything but the springs and jack the axle around to check clearances. Then, I've found the fine tuning to be done easiest with a fork truck where you can raise one tire at a time slowly while checking often....

Invest2m4

No squeaking here. Check your bushings. I had a couple out of the box where the snap ring had unseated. Someone else had one where the ring unseated while on the Jeep.

If you have a stock driveshaft, you should be able to remove the spring bow by adjusting the rear arms. The stock shaft doesn't like to have the pinion pointing toward the T-case. On a 4-door, it should be easy to fix.

If you have a new DC shaft, then you can simply cut the coil perches and weld some new ones on. Artec has some awesome perches for like $50.

rsbmg

I see it I was looking at another illustration but I'm still not following your math. Plus it says in bold that this is a starting point only so even if they somehow blew the equation and were off by 2 inches on the length its still up to the end user to make the adjustment. If they were confident what they were providing was dead nuts for everybody they would be fixed length not adjustable. Of course they should be "close" though. I would be dissapointed if I got arms with the rod ends laying in a box and the instructions said "figure it out".

jnabird333

Maybe this will help. The white lines represent the arm lengths. My stock arms sat darn near level with the ground pre lift. The two blue dashed lines are 4" apart. I rotated one end until the opposite end was 4" lower. The upper diagram uses an 18.6" length because this is the difference between the stock arms. The lower uses 19.4375" because this is the difference between the MC arm suggested lengths. You will note that the lift causes the axle to move forward 0.4356" with the stock arms and pushes the axle BACK 0.4213" with the MC arms when referenced against the stock location.



Now, this is all theoretical. In reality I measured my axle to be roughly 5/8" (0.625") farther back post lift with the MC "starter" lengths. All this said, I absolutely agree with you that this is nothing more than a starting length and one should adjust as they see fit for their build from there. I am just sharing where my numbers came from

idiotec

Thanks for the info guys. I will check the bushings, and probably loosen and retorque everything while I am at it.

I don't have rear adj arms, so I'll probably end up doing the perches, or, if nothing is rubbing, just wait and get rear arms down the road.

rsbmg

That is what is confusing me. I could swear on the MC site I read that it pushes the axle back 5/8 and you are saying that's what happened with yours. So I was trying to figure out how you both arrived at the same answer inputting different data. I could have just seen something wrong too who knows.

No matter as long as it all works out in the end!

kjeeper10

That's what people need to understand "starting points"
Weight/actual height, pinion/caster angles, variances in the stock mounting positions, etc. No two jeeps will be the same. Start with the numbers provided and adjust from there.
The 1" stretch with some manufactures is to clear bigger tires. In some cases causes more issues then what it's worth IMO.

n3tfury

Does anybody have any measurements with the 3.5 (ARB) and 37's (Nitto TG) at the top of a hard top? I'm pretty sure it will fit in the garage after the lift is installed, but considering I'm lifting it IN the garage, I want to be sure I can get out without having to put the stockers on.

snags922

LOL...ya, that would suck! It's a good thing you mentioned that because I am planning on lifting mine next month. Saved me from doing something really stupid!

jnabird333

I have 37" Goodyear MTR/Ks on 17x9s. I am a fat gnat's ass under 78" to the top of the hard top in the rear. I have a pretty light build as well.