Metalcloak Thread
05-10-2014, 05:13 PM
#1201
JK Junkie
Ok, flex tested the rear. I have the 2.5" GC and have the new 2.5" TB bracket. No contact at full stuff. However, I'm running 37s and 2" of bump stop. I cut a lot of metal out of the wheels wells and with a bit of a trim on the front, I'll have no problem with 1" of bump in the rear. However, the 2.5" TB bracket will hit the crossmember. I'm going to notch it and weld in a gusset.
05-10-2014, 06:07 PM
#1202
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: San Antonio
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I will give that a try. However, to be honest my wife drove it home from the alignment and I just got a chance to really drive it today. Discovered the creaking, tapping noises today that were driving her crazy to be the rear swaybar links not tight enough at the swaybar end. A little loctite and retightened and its quiet as a mouse.
Drives good but still considering the Rancho or AEV drop brackets to smooth out the ride.
Also back springs have some bow in them. Shouldn't the Metalcloak lower control arms be able to help that if I got them?
Drives good but still considering the Rancho or AEV drop brackets to smooth out the ride.
Also back springs have some bow in them. Shouldn't the Metalcloak lower control arms be able to help that if I got them?
05-10-2014, 08:35 PM
#1203
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Baltimore, md
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I just looked at driveshaft pricing...WOW! I'm getting my rig ready for a trip out to CO and UT this summer. I need to save some cash for the trip so I'll probably be installing the limiting straps. They seem to be the cheapest route...maybe next year I can replace the driveshaft.
I don't know about you guys but this year has been killing me financially...buying guns, ammo, beer and Jeep mods...not necessarily in that order...LOL! And, before I leave for my trip, I still want to have money left over for the Strike Force Zebra doors if they ever get the uppers done.
05-11-2014, 03:25 AM
#1204
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: CT
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I will give that a try. However, to be honest my wife drove it home from the alignment and I just got a chance to really drive it today. Discovered the creaking, tapping noises today that were driving her crazy to be the rear swaybar links not tight enough at the swaybar end. A little loctite and retightened and its quiet as a mouse.
Drives good but still considering the Rancho or AEV drop brackets to smooth out the ride.
Also back springs have some bow in them. Shouldn't the Metalcloak lower control arms be able to help that if I got them?
Drives good but still considering the Rancho or AEV drop brackets to smooth out the ride.
Also back springs have some bow in them. Shouldn't the Metalcloak lower control arms be able to help that if I got them?
Rear uppers will bow the coils slightly regardless of lowers (pinion correction)
You can try coil wedges, relocating the perches or live with it.
05-11-2014, 06:18 AM
#1205
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: San Antonio
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The Dualrate kit I got just comes with front uppers. I plan to add the rear lowers next to see if that cures the bowing. Which I planned on doing as budget allowed.
What is a good angle finder to get so I can check pinion angle?
What is a good angle finder to get so I can check pinion angle?
05-11-2014, 08:19 AM
#1206
JK Jedi
Cut off the factory coil perches and rotate them back on top of the axle and weld them back on where they should be. Don't mess with the wedges, do it right.
05-11-2014, 08:31 AM
#1207
JK Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2008
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05-11-2014, 08:37 AM
#1208
JK Jedi
Actually it is very easy to do. Should take about 20-30 min to do with a grinder and welder. JKS makes adjustable bolt on perches for those that can't weld.
05-11-2014, 08:52 AM
#1210
JK Junkie