but then he'll possibly eliminate some travel on that metalcloak kit!

 

Looks good. Thanks for the pics. I believe the instructions say to level the bar by adjusting the links. Looks like yours are close.

 

Now it sits perfect. Swapped out the 2.5 for 3.5 springs, did the AFE exhaust reroute and have ordered a new drive shaft.

Thanks to Jay and Brian at Stomper Off-Road.

Next mod is the driver modification. Will wheel this for a bit and see where to go from there.

 

Should get the metal cloak rear track bar bracket tonight to play with...Heres a little mock up.

 

I'd love to adjust the bars but they aren't adjustable.

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I've been beating myself up for a month on what lift to get. Coilovers, long arm, game changer...

I'm more leaning towards the full game changer, but I have questions.

1. With bushwackers and 37s, would the 2.5" be enough or should I get the 3.5. (I'm short and want to stay LCG). I know the 37s would fit, but how much articulation would I be giving up?

2. I have a Prorock 44 front and G2/Currie Rockjock 60 rear. Any issues?

3. Can I run front and rear Currie Antirocks? Would this even benefit me?

4. Right now I have a currie rear trackbar to clear my diff. Would the MC one clear?

5. Is there anything else I should buy? I already have 1310 axles.

 

One of your flex pictures, (which doesn't look full flex), shows why it gets set this way. If it started level it would flip thre wrong way.

Level would make it work better when connected, but the Rubicon e disco will not allow for full droop when set this way. Those using manual disconnects could and should set it level.

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Well that certainly looks stout!

 

Well that explains it. Mine is not a rubi. I got manual disco. Thanks, jnabird, for clearing that up.

Edit: My kit came with front adjustibles.

 

1- the big advantage to the game changer (shocks) is up travel. The 2.5 and 37s will limit this unless using the overline fenders.
2- shouldn't be any issues
3- you can but the sway bars have little effect on flex (as least with the front disconnected)
4- i don't know, but there is no reason to change it from what you have
5- 1310 is a reference to u-joint size, if it's in the drive shaft it is small for 37s and hard wheeling. If it's in the front axle they should have full circlips and not c-clips.

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