How many MC owners have used a drag link flip kit on a 3.5" GC ARB?? MC says they aren't necessary even on the 3.5". I tend to trust them, but want to hear real world experience also.

 

That would screw your geometry up. If you flip it you will need to get a different TB bracket.

sent from my work leash

 

A drag link flip corrects steering geometry. Axle shift and bump steer is what it corrects. At 3.5" of lift it may or may not be desired by the driver to flip the drag link, but the game changer lift does nothing to correct these handling issues. What they do use is a very high rear track bar to help with the roll center and stability both on road and off. I would keep the lift size down to 2.5" which will increase the stability of your Jeep while maintaing more potential up travel vs a 3.5" lift and drag link flit.

As you go up from 3.5" the problem with bump steer and axle shift becomes more pronounced.

 

So high in fact that I had to swap it out.... I was getting pretty severe roll bump when the weight of my Jeep shifted from one side to the other. I checked everything several time and even consulted Eric at MC. In the end, switching to another rear track bar bracket that wasn't raised so high corrected almost all of the rear-end shift I was getting. I had always planned to switch brackets for other reasons, but was hoping to run the MC one for a few months. While I can say that cornering was better (post bump) with the MC bracket it is not worth the cost of tail wagging every time the weight shifted from one side to the other.

 

Interesting. I didn't have issues until I put my 37s on and now the back end wags like a dogs tail if the road isn't smooth. I'm guessing the tires and 3.5" back space put me outside of the worn ruts in the road and push me side to side. That said, it's really annoying.

What bracket do you go with? I netted exactly 2.5" of lift, so I don't think I need a bracket nearly that tall.

 

I went with the EVO Roll Center Correction Bracket. I actually have had this for a while. I ordered it when I purchased their Rock Star Skids because I knew the MC bracket wouldn't work with them. (They both use the rear LCA bolt and it would force the TB bracket out of place.) I wanted to install my lift in steps in case there was an issue it would be easier to diagnose. I actually ran the lift with the stock 32s for this same reason and had it with them as well, while not as pronounced as when I put the 37s on. I also wanted to wait until better painting weather as the EVO bracket requires cutting and suggests welding. The poor handling pushed the swap up on me....

 

You should check with Metal Cloak to see if the game changer lifts are now shipping with the forged ends or are they still providing the kits with the welded links.

 

I complained to Metal cloak last year about there quality of the shanks. They want 60 bucks for a joint with a grade 5 shank. For that price the shanks should be at least a grade 8. Another thing to take in consideration is that broke right above the weld. Heat may of played a factor in it. Im making some aluminum links now and was considering the duraflex joints again. Now I might be going with good ole Johnny joints after seening your pics.

 

They do have a forged joint body now $59 but give no information about how they are built or if they are heat treated or not.
It is priced the same as the welded joint so I would think they would phase the welded joint out of production?

As far as heat being the problem looking close up the metal looks crystalized and broke out where the weld penetrated the threaded rod.

 

I need to look at the bracket, but I wonder if I can modify it and lower the track bar a bit?