I am looking at going with the OME lift with heavy duty springs and new shocks The specs say the lift is 2.25 inches but the vendor told me it gets more like 3 inches I have a 4 door rubicon with a warn bumper and smitty built 10k winch and my front end is down probably 1.5 inches from stock on the stock springs. So the questions

1. What is the minimum i need to do and be able to keep near stock handling?
I was thinking a terra flex monster track bar.

2, Are there any issues with steering that I will need to address?

3. What about the front driveshaft? do i need or will I need a replacement?

4. At what point do i or will need i need control arms?

5. What else will I need to maintain the reliability and drive-ability of the stocker


I work off road sometimes miles from nowhere most times alone. my goal is to build a stone reliable work jeep that will get me in and out. It might take 4 to 6 hours to get to where the project is, I also off road for fun but am fairly conservative. Still there is always the smooth fire road that lulls you into complacency until you hit that big ass rock on the edge doing 50

I am running 33 inch falkens with wheel spacers

My plan after this is to address front gussets and add sleeves. then re-gear and go to 35's

oh and budget is an issue for me. as is every one else unless I win the lotto..

 

if you want to get away with running 33's and wheel spacers. get a leveling kit.

if you like the stock ride and have minimal lift, don't get new suspension...

 

Not sure if you saw this page and all the info on it.....
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ery-Newbie-Has

This should help answer some of your questions

 

You have been on the site long enough to have heard about northridge, right? Go out to their site and look at the OME Long Travel kit they have set up. Those are the components you will want to keep your current handling. (with a few 'long travel' components adding in)

With a 3" lift, the caster will be low. This causes flighty handling. The only way to fix it is to correct the caster. If you don't want to buy adjustable control arms, you have other options. (though I personally would suggest you bite the bullet and get a set of front arms)

Both axles will be pushed off to the side. This can cause tracking/esp/handling issues. Relo brackets for the stock trackbars will work, but again, adjustables are the better choice.

The base OME kit does not come with bump stops. I would suggest that you add a set of 2" stops up front. They go inside the coils, so this will save you from having to rip the front end apart a second time when you figure out that you need them. The rears are installed outside the coils, and can be added at any time.

With 3 inches, the swaybars will be angled down. When flexed (or on the lift at the shop), this can cause the bar to flip around backwards, mangling the links and possibly damaging other components. Get longer rear links and move the stock rears up front.

You brake lines will be stretched. Spend $10 at the hardware store and make some extension brackets. Or get longer lines.

There are a lot of variables in needing new driveshafts. My opinion - with a 4door auto - plan on replacing the front at some point, but the rear should be ok.

When flexed, the front shaft will contact the corner of the tranny pan, ripping that big boot. Keep it greased and you can continue driving for a while. The problem will be the little boot at the tcase end. It will be 'pinched' from the new angles and will eventually wear through and start spitting grease. Not serviceable, so you have to replace the driveshaft. (I got appx 4k street miles on my ome hd lift before the front shaft failed at the tcase. But many are reporting 20-30k with no issues.)

 

If you go with the OME LT kit, all the components listed will be included except the drivetrain parts. Check it out - nice kit

 

Have you considered not lifting at all? Plenty of people are doing 35" tires with no lift and a little fender trimming, could be done for very little money and will provide a bone-stock ride, because the suspension is untouched.

Just food for thought.

 

I would use the terraflex high performance coil spring leveling kit. It's pretty cheap, will fix your sagging issues and will allow the use of 35's if you decide to go that way by simply trimming your fenders.

 

If the front is sitting down 1.5", he'd still probably have some pretty decent rubbing with trimmed fenders.

You really want some aftermarket coils to handle the extra weight.

 

hijacking this thread but what is “top shelf” lift to run with 305/70/17’s on properly backspaced wheels?

 

but none of them have a top shelf 2 inch kit Don't really want spacers, but don't want a 3 inch kit!