So what do you guys think of a 3" lift + 1" spacers on top of the springs?

 

Needs the same shocks, steering correction, and other components of a 4" lift.

 

I am having some brain wave issues. So say you have 2" spacers with stock springs and in fact get 2 full inches of lift per before and after measurements and then you end up removing the spacers and installing aftermarket springs and get the same 2" lift compared to stock will you have the same articulation with the new springs if both set ups were using shocks meant for a 2" lift and bump stops for the same? I think you will, but someone is arguing that being the stock springs were being preloaded with the spacers that there will be more articulation with the longer springs. I know I can win the argument just not able to articulate it (no pun intended) at the moment.

 

An advantage to spring VS spacer lift is the spring can (in theory) compress more and achieve more up-travel. This is usually only theoretical though as the lift often goes along with taller tires which require bump-stops to limit the up-travel and keep the tire out of the fenders. However, if the tires are small and additional bump stops are not needed then it is possible to over compress a short spring with a spacer. FWIW: this is also very possible with lower quality springs.

The argument that the spacer adds more load to the spring is invalid. If it did, there wouldn't be any lift achieved.

 

I'd like to minimize bumpstop on my 2.5" TF coil lift (currently using the ones that came with the kit). What would be a logical approach to this? Any suggestions?

 

Use an RTI ramp or a buddy with a fork lift. Flex one tire at a time and make adjustments as you see fit.

This was my first go post lift... Where I discovered I needed to trim the rear pinch seam more. I ended up with 3" more up-travel in the rear once trimmed.




Edit to add it is safest to add high bump stops and then adjust down.

 

that is what I was trying to say. thanks.

 

Flat fenders and body trimming.

 

Hey guys, great info in this thread. I'm going to be running the RK 2.5 stock mod with Bilstien 5100's RK, 2" bumpstops, quick discos and I revived one set of crown break lines. Do I need rear break lines as well? Is there any thing else I will need? I will be running Black Rock Viper wheels 15" w/ 35x12.50r15 KM2. I have a 2012 JKU Sport.

 

Depends on the length of the rear shocks. RC say to use the rear bilstiens for a 4 inch lift. Will at least need to relocate brake hard lines. But extended lines would be better.