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regear or not to regear a 2012??? Here's the answer

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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 11:22 AM
  #61  
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Tuning in to see what I can learn
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 06:36 PM
  #62  
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This thread has been very informative!! I've decided to go with the 4.56 gears on my JKU sport Manual with 2.5 lift and 35 in tires.

Now, I've looked on the vendor forum and could not find many deals or posts about gears. Where and what brand of gear is good to get? And is it worth it to get the ring and Pinions gear set? Lastly, what kind of pricing am I looking at for just the gears (Not install)?

Seems the install price varies alot depending on shop!

Thank you all for your help and posts, it has helped a noob like me learn tons!!!
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 06:53 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by omjee
This thread has been very informative!! I've decided to go with the 4.56 gears on my JKU sport Manual with 2.5 lift and 35 in tires.

Now, I've looked on the vendor forum and could not find many deals or posts about gears. Where and what brand of gear is good to get? And is it worth it to get the ring and Pinions gear set? Lastly, what kind of pricing am I looking at for just the gears (Not install)?

Seems the install price varies alot depending on shop!

Thank you all for your help and posts, it has helped a noob like me learn tons!!!
Best thing you can do is call Dave at Northridge on Monday and have him help you make sure you're getting everything you need. He's going to get you the best price possible. Just ordered everything for my gears and arb locker today.
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 07:29 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by omjee
This thread has been very informative!! I've decided to go with the 4.56 gears on my JKU sport Manual with 2.5 lift and 35 in tires.

Now, I've looked on the vendor forum and could not find many deals or posts about gears. Where and what brand of gear is good to get? And is it worth it to get the ring and Pinions gear set? Lastly, what kind of pricing am I looking at for just the gears (Not install)?

Seems the install price varies alot depending on shop!

Thank you all for your help and posts, it has helped a noob like me learn tons!!!
Look into this real hard. You and I are now in the same boat. I want my gears made out of good ole American Steel. Seems like all the gears are made in Asia. I dont want to start a debate about which steel is better. Lets just say Im insisting on US Made gears for my own reasons. Hopefully tis will avoid the war of words Ive seen occur in other threads.
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 07:56 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by rb1boxer_3
Ok so what would be the ideal gear for 40s and would a pr44 hold up to them if I'm not beating on it
HEres the chart.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/uplo...o-chart-12.jpg

If youre going with 40's I guess your building this mostly for rock crawling. It say 5:38 or 5:86. I would ask around however because I have 0 experience as to how accurate this chart is when it comes to seat of the pants performance for tires that size.

Last edited by powrsurg; Nov 9, 2012 at 07:58 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 08:26 PM
  #66  
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First off, I'm fairly new to jeeps, this is my first one, and as a side note I'm in love. I have a Manual 2012 JKU Sport with 3.21s. I've added quite a bit since I purchased in April. I'm now running GY Duratrac 315/70/R17s, LOD Shorty front and rear with tire carrier, LOD rails, EVO oil pan skid, and a Superwinch (lot of weight total) on a Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel. I remember researching this topic prior to adding my lift and decided just to get all my mods on before pulling the trigger on a regear, because like most of us not in CA, the prices are definitely not under $1K, particularly with the 3.21s because a new carrier is needed.

Since adding all the mods, I've definitely noticed it's more sluggish than it was stock, but it's something that I can live with. In very rare cases during normal driving, I have to work the clutch a touch more to get going, like on a large hill, etc. but I've come to terms that it's something that I can live with. Yeah the Jeep is a little slow to get going, but overall I'm fine with it for daily driving. I recently did a wheeling trip at Uwharrie, where I was in 4 low most of the time, but I felt that while in 4 low, the power/gearing/pep was incredible. I was crawling over the hole park and never really had a problem. This may be a dumb question, but after adding everything and driving around a lot, I still haven't figured out a justification as to why I would need to regear? Is it just to get the stock performance back while in 2wd? Are the gains that much that it's worth justifying ripping out perfectly functioning stock gearing? I honestly believe if I had 4.10s I would be completely fine, but I'm curious as to what other jeepers have to say when it comes to the driving factor that's telling you all to regear?
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 08:49 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by kegnut
First off, I'm fairly new to jeeps, this is my first one, and as a side note I'm in love. I have a Manual 2012 JKU Sport with 3.21s. I've added quite a bit since I purchased in April. I'm now running GY Duratrac 315/70/R17s, LOD Shorty front and rear with tire carrier, LOD rails, EVO oil pan skid, and a Superwinch (lot of weight total) on a Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel. I remember researching this topic prior to adding my lift and decided just to get all my mods on before pulling the trigger on a regear, because like most of us not in CA, the prices are definitely not under $1K, particularly with the 3.21s because a new carrier is needed.

Since adding all the mods, I've definitely noticed it's more sluggish than it was stock, but it's something that I can live with. In very rare cases during normal driving, I have to work the clutch a touch more to get going, like on a large hill, etc. but I've come to terms that it's something that I can live with. Yeah the Jeep is a little slow to get going, but overall I'm fine with it for daily driving. I recently did a wheeling trip at Uwharrie, where I was in 4 low most of the time, but I felt that while in 4 low, the power/gearing/pep was incredible. I was crawling over the hole park and never really had a problem. This may be a dumb question, but after adding everything and driving around a lot, I still haven't figured out a justification as to why I would need to regear? Is it just to get the stock performance back while in 2wd? Are the gains that much that it's worth justifying ripping out perfectly functioning stock gearing? I honestly believe if I had 4.10s I would be completely fine, but I'm curious as to what other jeepers have to say when it comes to the driving factor that's telling you all to regear?
I have a similar setup to you currently and just ordered new gears. I don't know about you but my jeep is completely undriveable offroad in anything but 4lo without abusing the clutch. I have been on some inclines where 2wd or 4hi would have worked but the jeep was ready to stall moving that slow with the tires aired down. In 4lo it moves too fast and I end up doing a sort of inch worm type movement catching the guy in front of me, stopping to give him some distance then catching him again. My jeep doesn't perform like it should, and I'm not the type of person to say it's good enough.

By the way a new carrier for the D30 is like $80. You're not looking at too much more than $1k if you're just doing gears either. Maybe like $1500 if you're getting boned on the labor.
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 12:02 AM
  #68  
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Question, i have a 2012 jku with 3.21 and an auto. Im planing to get a 18x8.5 enclosed trailer for landscaping. what gears do you all recommend for that? It will be about 7k lbs with the trailer and the gear in the back max.
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 06:03 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Etars
Question, i have a 2012 jku with 3.21 and an auto. Im planing to get a 18x8.5 enclosed trailer for landscaping. what gears do you all recommend for that? It will be about 7k lbs with the trailer and the gear in the back max.
you are gonna want to go up in gears, but it depends on the tire size you are running on the Jeep. If you are keeping stock tires I would suggest 4.10 minimum, but prob 4.56. This will give you the torque you need to get the trailer moving. If you are going up in tire size than that is another story. Thats a heavy trailer for a JK. I'd go up at least one above the normal setup for the tire you choose. Like 4.56 for stock 32" or 33", 4.88 for 35", 5.13 for 37". This would be a bit high for normal use, but nice to haul a trailer.
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 08:53 AM
  #70  
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I was looking at going up to a 35 when the tires ware down.
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