For a 2012 daily driver, if you want to regain that 410 feel when adding 35's go 4:56. If you were rock crawling I would then say 4:88 but your not.

When you go to 37's if you want to regain the stock 4:10 feel then go to 4:88.


If you know for certain that you will eventually be going with 37's than do the 4:88's now.


37's on 4:56 is almost the same as stock at 3:73 for a 2012. That's fine but not optimal for hardcore offload use.

 

To start off, you don't have a Dana 35, that's a rear end found in TJ's and YJ's.

Your front axle is a Dana 30 with Dana 44 rear. You can run 4.88's and be fine. Even with "hardcore" abuse. Just be smart with your right foot. Chances are your going to break a u joint before anything else.

 

LOL, I fixed it. Can't believe I made that mistake. Problem with owning 3 wranglers I guess.

 

I hear you, I've own 14 over the years. It's easy to throw the wrong number out.

 

not sure what u are trying "to tell me from experience" here. u are talking about regeared results with 4.56's ended up like stock after the regear....exactly my point

regardless of how close the new setups are to stock a procal is NECESSARY

 

Let me say it a different way. My friend with the 456 gears doesn't have a Procal but he does have a 6 speed. I would surmise that if one is needed for an auto, its for reasons other than odometer correction for correct mpg readings. Maybe the computer on an auto needs it for other reasons but the computer on a manual doesnt. I think you had said the jeep goes into limp mode. This has never happened to my friend. The vehicles Ive "tested" are
1) My 2012 Manual Rubicon with 35's and 4:10's
2) My friends 2012 Manual Rubicon with 4:56's. He doesn't have a Procal and his RPMs are identical now as they were when he had the 4:10's without 35in tires.

Apparently the error I made was assuming just because a Procal is not needed for a manual, that it wouldn't be needed for an auto.

 

i see. its def needed for the computer system with an auto or it goes into limp mode which is basically 2nd gear only. glad to hear your friend is happy with 4.56 and 35's. my axles are being built with 4.88's for 37's.....should be good for my needs. i think it is right in the middle where i could go up or down in tire size if i really wanted to. it would be a tad low for larger tires and a bit much if i went back to 35's

 

Id like to feel what a 2012 with 35's and 4:88 would be like. Id imagine pretty damn peppy.

 

Ok so what would be the ideal gear for 40s and would a pr44 hold up to them if I'm not beating on it

 

Epic thread! I have been wondering about this for quite some time... 35s with 4.56 vs 4.88 vs save the money and stick with 4.10 because it's too expensive. I'm leaning toward 4.88 myself because I need that super slow crawl mode so I don't spin my M/T clutch when climbing obstacles.