I was thinking opposite. Lol. If ground is level then it should read 90 or 0. Then the angle finder should read 92 or 2 on my axle. If ground reads 89 then is has a slight tilt and my jeep is at that slight tilt so in theory 89 or -1 would be my new level and 91 or 1 should be what I read on the axle. That was my thinking. Lol.

 

I absolutly had issues I had to work through and I did thanks to KJeeper10's assitance. My rear coils would have bowed, but I used ARTEC retainers to relocate and push them forward. My ARB diff had to be shaved to clear the rear TB and my frame sideded trackbar mount chewed a big chunck out of my rear passenger bump stop. I'm using the TF 2.75s, planning on swapping out for the RK 3s in the back, this should resolve the issue. My front drivers side spring rubbed on my synergy TB brace, I ground the piss out of it and now it only rubs when disconnected, more grinding to come this weekend. I don't believe I'll be able to use a sector shaft brace after I'm done.

All in all I made it work, but normal length arms would have solved my issues without all the headaches. While I'm happy with my purchase and the Jeep rides and flexes great with their new joints I wouldn't buy RK arms again simply due to the jam nut. I'd rather go with EVO or Synergy since they are easily adjusted and TIGHTENED on the vehicle. RK really needs to figure out a different approach other than "putting your big boy pants on."

 

A flat on the arms would help a lot. Something to grab and hold on to tightening the jam nuts.
The jig worked amazing but not everybody has a vice/angle block at their disposal.

 

Maybe you're right, it's confusing lol
Turn the jeep around, get a measurement and take the average.

 

I should of mentioned. RK said they will be making a shorter rear upper that would work with the shorter lowers. Great for somebody that wants to upgrade and not have to replace the shorter lowers and move the axle back 1"

 

Lol. That's a good idea

 

KJeeper, can you give some info on what screws ect.. you used for the sway bar relocation? My links hit right before full flex, and i want to move it back a little. It looks like I can use the rear-most hole in the frameside mount, and turn it into the front hole, and just drill out a new hole for the rear.

 

I am going to try the 2 rear holes first. RK supplies 4 self tapping 3/8x16x1" bolts. I tried Tractor supply with no luck. Next I tried eBay and found Some Murray lawnmower bolts in that size. The pic showed a taper like a self threader should have. They looked like regular bolts when I got them. I tried these next. The seller confirmed they had the taper.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=291306963934


I have a 5/16 drill and tap I might try first.

 

Look at RKs contents in the instructions. It tells you what bolts to use maybe not length but that you can just choose yourself. But the instructions tell you what size bolt and what kind. Go to Fastenal and they will have them, at least mine did, and you should be good. Mine allowed me to break open a package and buy seperately.

 

They are 3/8x16x1 or 1.25, either will work. He wants the self tapping bolts. Mark and drill 5/16 then use the bolts to run the threads.