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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
So I finally sunk a bunch into my 08 jku to get it ready for some more wheeling adventures. Trussed sleeved gusseted and arb locked the front and through a trutrac lsd in the rear with 5.13 gears. Currently running 35” tires on 15” wheels which greatly hinders my ability to find some better steering set ups. Anyways what skid plates do you guys recommend adding to this rig without adding a ton of weight. Typically hit rausch creek and some other areas.
I would get a HD cross member and keep the factory skids, maybe throw one of the tight fitting oil pan skids on. Full skids typically just cost you ground clearance and weigh you down, both are detrimental to off roading. Pay attention to the trail and pick good lines. Don't straddle or go around large rocks or obstacles. Keep you tires high and on the obstacle and you should not have to worry about under armor. When you are ready to move to 37's go with a 17" wheel. I would do that over buying skids since you are already geared for it.
I am sure I will eventually go to 37” on a 17” wheel, but am in no rush right now. I did plan ahead on the gearing knowing I will eventually end up on 37’s. I completely forgot about adding the heavy duty crossmember. Will probably go that route.
Rock Hard 4x4 Aluminum Skids for sure. Not nearly as heavy as Steel (33lbs for Oil pan and 27lbs for transfer case), and just as strong (for most wheeling). Also, it actually gains you a few inches of clearance once you delete the lame transfer case skid from the factory. I wouldn't worry about the fuel tank skid.
What Dirtman said - remember every pound you add has to have to be hauled somewhere and that costs power and economy.
Creepy, that is a nice set of plates. They get made in the Lower Mainland? I am not going to replace the factory gas tank one but will make my own for the tranny, TC and Engine as that Chev sump is a dinky little thing all sitting out on its own. More worried about it being hit by a log or similar getting flicked up.
I'll throw the opposite opinion out there on the gas skid. On the 4dr this is an area that takes a decent bit of pounding, and that factory "skid" really ain't much of a skid there at all. Once you have to take that off and pound one back to flat you won't want to deal with it again. That said, cheapest aftermarket gas skid is decent enough. the TC skid on the 4dr is wasted money IMO, just not in dangers way enough and factory is fine. I don't think an oil/tranny skid is a terrible idea, but i do agree the first thing is get an HD crossmember.
Front LCA skids above, rear LCA skids below. Hardly any weight, significant labor.
Rancho oil pan skid. Tight fit over the stock pan, only adds a few pounds. Can't interfere with anything or restrict air flow. Cheap insurance for an unlikely, but potentially catastrophic hit to the sheet metal oil pan.
Rubicon Express TCase skid. It also reinforces most of the crossmember and adds some protection to the exhaust crossover. It's accumulated some minor rock rash over the years and hasn't bent. There's an Evap skid visible toward the rear that's never hit anything. Guessing about 40 pounds over stock.
What Dirtman said - remember every pound you add has to have to be hauled somewhere and that costs power and economy.
Creepy, that is a nice set of plates. They get made in the Lower Mainland? I am not going to replace the factory gas tank one but will make my own for the tranny, TC and Engine as that Chev sump is a dinky little thing all sitting out on its own. More worried about it being hit by a log or similar getting flicked up.
Yep, Taran and the boys at BCC working their magic !