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From Stock to Coilovers and Longarms in one step?

Old Aug 22, 2013 | 07:27 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by big dr
In response to wanting 14" CO's,, I agree with the previous post on going into the engine bay. On my build we had to ditch the washer reservoir on the drivers side and turn the computer sideways and mount it on the shock tower. On the passenger side we ditched the air filter box and shortened the intake tube to use a K&N unit. A brace bar was made to go over the engine cover between the towers. It is a very tight fit!! One problem with the shock tower on the passenger side is it gets in the way of any snorkel kit I might want to use,, so more custom work and more money is needed for a snorkel.
Nice stuff man. Can I ask, are you coilover tabs on the top of the axle tube? And what are you running for uptravel/down travel? Total lift height? A guy local here runs 14" kings with tribe towers tucked to the bottom of the engine bay and axle tabs behind the tube. 3" of up travel, plenty of total flex on 37's.


It does load the bushings constantly, but seems to work alright so far.

I've also setup custom brackets for a friend for 14" travel shocks on a coil sprung suspension.


I'm curious why you chose to run 14's into the engine bay. I would assume to mount them to the top of the tube but.....

Last edited by JKred; Aug 22, 2013 at 07:37 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 07:35 AM
  #12  
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Those look like ford shock towers
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 07:39 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Maertz
Those look like ford shock towers
That they are... F250 towers trimmed to shape and welded to the frame and coil perch.

Sorry for the mild hijack OP, just fitting 14's in is a mild art form in a JKunless you start moving things around in the engine bay.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 07:50 AM
  #14  
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My shock tabs are on top of the tube. To be honest,, went with 14's because they are 2" more bad ass than 12's. As stated before,, 12's would have probably worked for my purpose. Sorry I dont have a bunch of numbers to post, I never really measured the lift. My guess is I'm sitting at about 5". I'm currently working with Rebel Off Road trying to dial in the shocks. They were WAY OFF from King. I have gone down 2 spring rates from the 300# lowers the shocks came with. As a result of the softer springs my front end is dropping a little, which is fine with me because it was too high before. Not totally dialed in yet,, but as it sits right now I have 4 1/2" of up travel. The towers are 19" high from the top of the frame rail.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 08:02 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by big dr
My shock tabs are on top of the tube. To be honest,, went with 14's because they are 2" more bad ass than 12's. As stated before,, 12's would have probably worked for my purpose. Sorry I dont have a bunch of numbers to post, I never really measured the lift. My guess is I'm sitting at about 5". I'm currently working with Rebel Off Road trying to dial in the shocks. They were WAY OFF from King. I have gone down 2 spring rates from the 300# lowers the shocks came with. As a result of the softer springs my front end is dropping a little, which is fine with me because it was too high before. Not totally dialed in yet,, but as it sits right now I have 4 1/2" of up travel. The towers are 19" high from the top of the frame rail.
Very clean
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 08:23 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Maertz

Control arms wont affect flex just dial Pinon but id get them. Also id go 14 on coilover you can get 12 on shock and coil and shocks on stock mounts. If your moving them id get 14. Unless you want a lcg build or arent going bigger that 35s maybe 37s
I wasn't talking about more flex. I was saying the coil over flex will kill a non Johnny joint quickly.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 08:28 AM
  #17  
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Don't overthink this. Look at my build specs. I had no cutting into the body with my setup and I will put my setup against anything else with 37 s for capability.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by JKZinger
I wasn't talking about more flex. I was saying the coil over flex will kill a non Johnny joint quickly.
I run Johnny Joints as well, but they're not the only joint that can handle the travel. A duroflex has so far proved itself to work just as well as the Johnny Joint so far in it's limited time available, and it is actually proven to be more street friendly in terms of NVH. Heims, Krawler joints, Ballistic Joints.... all can handle high travel as well.

Originally Posted by JKZinger
Don't overthink this. Look at my build specs. I had no cutting into the body with my setup and I will put my setup against anything else with 37 s for capability.
It should be overthought. Look at big dr's posts, in particular about his coilover setup. He's on his second revision to get it right for his rig. Every rig is different.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 11:00 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by big dr
In response to wanting 14" CO's,, I agree with the previous post on going into the engine bay. On my build we had to ditch the washer reservoir on the drivers side and turn the computer sideways and mount it on the shock tower. On the passenger side we ditched the air filter box and shortened the intake tube to use a K&N unit. A brace bar was made to go over the engine cover between the towers. It is a very tight fit!! One problem with the shock tower on the passenger side is it gets in the way of any snorkel kit I might want to use,, so more custom work and more money is needed for a snorkel.
This setup looks sweet. The crossover bar reminds me of a high horsepower racecar.

From a suspension design standpoint, do you want the shock at a 90 degree in front/back and left/right or is it better to have a slight angle in either of the directions? From one of your pictures it looks like there is a very slight angle from the top being a little more inboard than the bottom. Is this to help it fit or for performance gains?
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 11:03 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ZoidMax
This setup looks sweet. The crossover bar reminds me of a high horsepower racecar.

From a suspension design standpoint, do you want the shock at a 90 degree in front/back and left/right or is it better to have a slight angle in either of the directions? From one of your pictures it looks like there is a very slight angle from the top being a little more inboard than the bottom. Is this to help it fit or for performance gains?
Slightly angle out at the bottom helps a little with lateral stability. Slightly angled toward the center of the jeep at the top helps utilize more travel through the arc of the arms.
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