From Stock to Coilovers and Longarms in one step?
In response to wanting 14" CO's,, I agree with the previous post on going into the engine bay. On my build we had to ditch the washer reservoir on the drivers side and turn the computer sideways and mount it on the shock tower. On the passenger side we ditched the air filter box and shortened the intake tube to use a K&N unit. A brace bar was made to go over the engine cover between the towers. It is a very tight fit!! One problem with the shock tower on the passenger side is it gets in the way of any snorkel kit I might want to use,, so more custom work and more money is needed for a snorkel.

It does load the bushings constantly, but seems to work alright so far.
I've also setup custom brackets for a friend for 14" travel shocks on a coil sprung suspension.

I'm curious why you chose to run 14's into the engine bay. I would assume to mount them to the top of the tube but.....
Last edited by JKred; Aug 22, 2013 at 07:37 AM.
My shock tabs are on top of the tube. To be honest,, went with 14's because they are 2" more bad ass than 12's. As stated before,, 12's would have probably worked for my purpose. Sorry I dont have a bunch of numbers to post, I never really measured the lift. My guess is I'm sitting at about 5". I'm currently working with Rebel Off Road trying to dial in the shocks. They were WAY OFF from King. I have gone down 2 spring rates from the 300# lowers the shocks came with. As a result of the softer springs my front end is dropping a little, which is fine with me because it was too high before. Not totally dialed in yet,, but as it sits right now I have 4 1/2" of up travel. The towers are 19" high from the top of the frame rail.
My shock tabs are on top of the tube. To be honest,, went with 14's because they are 2" more bad ass than 12's. As stated before,, 12's would have probably worked for my purpose. Sorry I dont have a bunch of numbers to post, I never really measured the lift. My guess is I'm sitting at about 5". I'm currently working with Rebel Off Road trying to dial in the shocks. They were WAY OFF from King. I have gone down 2 spring rates from the 300# lowers the shocks came with. As a result of the softer springs my front end is dropping a little, which is fine with me because it was too high before. Not totally dialed in yet,, but as it sits right now I have 4 1/2" of up travel. The towers are 19" high from the top of the frame rail.
I wasn't talking about more flex. I was saying the coil over flex will kill a non Johnny joint quickly.
It should be overthought. Look at big dr's posts, in particular about his coilover setup. He's on his second revision to get it right for his rig. Every rig is different.
In response to wanting 14" CO's,, I agree with the previous post on going into the engine bay. On my build we had to ditch the washer reservoir on the drivers side and turn the computer sideways and mount it on the shock tower. On the passenger side we ditched the air filter box and shortened the intake tube to use a K&N unit. A brace bar was made to go over the engine cover between the towers. It is a very tight fit!! One problem with the shock tower on the passenger side is it gets in the way of any snorkel kit I might want to use,, so more custom work and more money is needed for a snorkel.
From a suspension design standpoint, do you want the shock at a 90 degree in front/back and left/right or is it better to have a slight angle in either of the directions? From one of your pictures it looks like there is a very slight angle from the top being a little more inboard than the bottom. Is this to help it fit or for performance gains?
This setup looks sweet. The crossover bar reminds me of a high horsepower racecar.
From a suspension design standpoint, do you want the shock at a 90 degree in front/back and left/right or is it better to have a slight angle in either of the directions? From one of your pictures it looks like there is a very slight angle from the top being a little more inboard than the bottom. Is this to help it fit or for performance gains?
From a suspension design standpoint, do you want the shock at a 90 degree in front/back and left/right or is it better to have a slight angle in either of the directions? From one of your pictures it looks like there is a very slight angle from the top being a little more inboard than the bottom. Is this to help it fit or for performance gains?


