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From Stock to Coilovers and Longarms in one step?

Old Aug 22, 2013 | 12:15 PM
  #21  
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If I had the time to play around with the front suspension I think I would run the 14" up into the hood like shown above, but unfortunately I won't be in town long enough to do a lot of custom fab work. When purchasing this JK, my intentions were to CADD/FEA my own everything and build it from scratch, but I am overseas and the JK is not. So, I will probably have to stick to something more out of a box than custom just so I don't spend my entire vacation durations wrenching, cutting, and welding which translates into more fun stuff like hitting the trails.

With that in mind, I just found a reply to an EVO post that is kind of similar to what I am asking about. The poster ordered a pile of parts from EVO just before his/her JK arrived. Below is a copy/paste of a portion of the reply.

EVO MFG NEW BOLT ON COILOVER KIT (FRONT)
EVO MFG NEW BOLT ON COILOVER KIT (REAR)
EVO MFG(4) Extreme High Clearance Long Arm Upgrade Kit
EVO MFG(9) JK Draglink Flip Kit



I'm assuming High Clearance Long Arm Upgrade Kit would cover the arms, brackets, and joints and the Front/Rear Coilover Bolt on Kits would cover the shocks. The Flip Kit corrects some geometry issues. Does this cover the suspension altogether? Anything else from a suspension standpoint required?
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 12:50 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ZoidMax
If I had the time to play around with the front suspension I think I would run the 14" up into the hood like shown above, but unfortunately I won't be in town long enough to do a lot of custom fab work. When purchasing this JK, my intentions were to CADD/FEA my own everything and build it from scratch, but I am overseas and the JK is not. So, I will probably have to stick to something more out of a box than custom just so I don't spend my entire vacation durations wrenching, cutting, and welding which translates into more fun stuff like hitting the trails.

With that in mind, I just found a reply to an EVO post that is kind of similar to what I am asking about. The poster ordered a pile of parts from EVO just before his/her JK arrived. Below is a copy/paste of a portion of the reply.

EVO MFG NEW BOLT ON COILOVER KIT (FRONT)
EVO MFG NEW BOLT ON COILOVER KIT (REAR)
EVO MFG(4) Extreme High Clearance Long Arm Upgrade Kit
EVO MFG(9) JK Draglink Flip Kit

I'm assuming High Clearance Long Arm Upgrade Kit would cover the arms, brackets, and joints and the Front/Rear Coilover Bolt on Kits would cover the shocks. The Flip Kit corrects some geometry issues. Does this cover the suspension altogether? Anything else from a suspension standpoint required?
Upgrade track bars and brackets? How about tie rod. (I see you listed the drag link flip, which is good). Extended brake lines, sleeves and gusset for axle, have you thought about those?
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 01:20 PM
  #23  
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Double check with Evo before ordering.

A quote from their web site: "EVO Bolt-On Long Arm Kit for EVOLever equipped JK's. This system was designed to enhance the EVOLever."
EVO: Suspension / Steering, Extreme High Clearance Long Arm Upgrade Kit

I got the DoubleD bolt-on long arm kit and despite having some missing part issues it's going on right now. I got the rear end done and I'm starting the front today. I put 10 miles on yesterday going out for parts/tools and I love the way the rear end feels now. I'm excited to do the front and have it all done and working.

I don't do rock crawling so having my control arms exposed isn't a big deal for the trails I go on.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #24  
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I plan on beefing up the axles as well.

It looks like the next step is to call a few of the manufacturers to make sure I'm getting everything needed.

Thanks for all of the help.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 03:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JKred
I run Johnny Joints as well, but they're not the only joint that can handle the travel. A duroflex has so far proved itself to work just as well as the Johnny Joint so far in it's limited time available, and it is actually proven to be more street friendly in terms of NVH. Heims, Krawler joints, Ballistic Joints.... all can handle high travel as well.



It should be overthought. Look at big dr's posts, in particular about his coilover setup. He's on his second revision to get it right for his rig. Every rig is different.
You have a lot of advice to dispense on coilovers for not even having them on your rig according to your build sheet. Keep on flexing those Johnny joints on those Connecticut rocks!
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 05:03 PM
  #26  
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You make it seem like 12"coilovers are harder on joints then 12" standard shocks and coils..
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 05:05 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Maertz
You make it seem like 12"coilovers are harder on joints then 12" standard shocks and coils..
Thats because with the additional flex from coilovers it does blow out your joints much more quickly than a coil spring setup.
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 03:04 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by JKZinger
Thats because with the additional flex from coilovers it does blow out your joints much more quickly than a coil spring setup.
Thanks for taking the time to post more useless and inaccurate information... Tho I'm hesitant to call it that since all you've effectively done is try and justify your purchases with zero useful tech.

A 12" travel shock will always be a 12" travel shock. Whether the spring is stand alone in its own bucket or wrapped around a threaded body shock. Travel is travel.

Yes 12" of travel will blow a factory clevite joint eventually, but as I said before JJ's aren't the only joint on earth that can handle the travel.

That's ok tho. Since you proved I live in Connecticut I must know nothing of the topic. I bow to your technical expertise.
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 05:32 AM
  #29  
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Good post JKred, I would agree with everything you have posted. I personally am running 5 different joints on my long arm and all of them are doing a fine job. Mounting the control arm brackets in the right location will help maximize the amount of misalignment without binding, make sure everything is centered out at your ride height.

Personally I would not run more then a 12" travel shock on the factory axle, you really need more width on the axle to handle the extra travel and axle shift to keep it out of the fenders and frame.
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 06:09 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JKZinger

Thats because with the additional flex from coilovers it does blow out your joints much more quickly than a coil spring setup.
How is a 12" coilover flexing more than 12" travel shock thats obsurd as jk said... Id listen to dirtman and jk red they know there shit

Last edited by Maertz; Aug 23, 2013 at 06:15 AM.
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