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teraflex 2.5: BB or spring?

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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 01:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by w squared
The nice thing about the OME suspension is that if you get the appropriate parts with it (trackbars, control arms) you will not have ANY issues at all with your on road performance. Just like any lift, it will raise your center of gravity a little bit, I actually find my rig more comfortable on the road now than it was stock.
Yeah, that is what I have been reading about the OME's. However, that list gets longer and longer to get it truly dialed in, and that equals way too much $$$$$. So, I am looking for a fairly complete kit that won't break the bank too bad. Also, I would be happy with a good 2" all around. I mean it is a jeep, and a Rubicon on top of it, so it is surprisingly capable right from the factory. However, it is also surprisingly LOW from the facory too. Let's just say the underneath Is REALLY well scratched....uhh....broken in
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 01:58 PM
  #22  
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Did the BB on my Rubi Unlimited, then went to 2.5 coils a month latter due to adding bumper and winch... Don't waste time or money on the BB.. More bang for the buck with the coils! As has been said elsewhere here.

Now thinking of 4.5 lift....
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 05:38 PM
  #23  
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On road ride is like stock. My wife and kid agree. I commute 60 miles a day, I would let everyone know if the TF coil lift road bad, but it doesn't.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 10:29 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by chipmaker
On road ride is like stock. My wife and kid agree. I commute 60 miles a day, I would let everyone know if the TF coil lift road bad, but it doesn't.
What He Said!
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 11:57 PM
  #25  
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I would have to agree. The coils ride as good or better than stock.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 05:31 AM
  #26  
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It took me about 2 months and alot of reading on this forum before I decided which lift was right for me. I couldn't decide from the BB or the coil lift as well but knew I wanted at least 2.5 lift. The deciding factor for me was I knew I will eventually get a winch and after market bumpers so the coil lift was the way to go. I just got my 2.5 Teraflex coil lift installed last week and love it.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 05:59 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by rubiRI77
Yeah, that is what I have been reading about the OME's. However, that list gets longer and longer to get it truly dialed in, and that equals way too much $$$$$. So, I am looking for a fairly complete kit that won't break the bank too bad.
Here's the thing though...any "complete kit" that has you spending less than about $1500 is probably going to fall into one of two categories: either not all that "complete", or with some fairly significant compromises in terms of the quality - most likely to occur in the joints on the control arms.

My opinion (and it's just that, so bear in mind that this post may be worth exactly what you paid for it ) is that a coil lift in the 2 to 4 inch range - either a pre-packaged "kit" or a DIY "frankenlift" should have:

-4 coils
-4 shocks
-4 bumpstop extensions
-4 adjustable sway bar links (you can get by with 2 if you're lucky)
-4 brake lines (relocation brackets may work if your kit does not offer that much travel)
-2 adjustable track bars (or at the very least track bar brackets)
-2 front control arms (either front lowers or front uppers)

If you're going with coils and shocks that articulate extremely well, you may also want to consider coil retainers - they're only an extra $65 if I recall correctly.

All of these items may seem like they're just a bunch of additional expenses that don't do anything for you - but each one serves to keep your suspension functioning properly after you alter it by making your rig taller.

-The bumpstop extensions keep your coils from compressing too much
-The brake lines keep your shorter stock brake lines from being stretched and damaged
-The sway bar links prevent any chance of your sway bars getting "wrapped" at full droop
-The control arms keep your caster within an acceptable range to prevent "flighty" steering
-The track bars keep your axle centered
-New shocks (instead of "shock extensions") allow you to make use of the additional travel offered by longer coils. If you're not putting on new shocks, don't expect to get any more travel than stock.

I am not saying that you're going to hate life if you buy a kit that is less than perfect - many people have bought budget-minded lifts and have been just fine. I just hope that we can provide enough information for you to make a truly informed decision, and understand that every manufacturer out there will tell you that their kit is "complete" and "engineered so that all the parts work together perfectly" and "top quality".

Edit: One exception to needing front control arms would be if you have control arm relocation brackets (like AEV) as an alternative way of adressing caster issues. Please note that I don't think cam bolts are a good way of doing this.

Last edited by w squared; Dec 24, 2010 at 06:57 AM.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 06:43 AM
  #28  
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Very informative post
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 06:54 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by w squared
Here's the thing though...any "complete kit" that has you spending less than about $1500 is probably going to fall into one of two categories: either not all that "complete", or with some fairly significant compromises in terms of the quality - most likely to occur in the joints on the control arms.

My opinion (and it's just that, so bear in mind that this post may be worth exactly what you paid for it ) is that a coil lift in the 2 to 4 inch range - either a pre-packaged "kit" or a DIY "frankenlift" should have:

-4 coils
-4 shocks
-4 bumpstop extensions
-4 adjustable sway bar links (you can get by with 2 if you're lucky)
-4 brake lines (relocation brackets may work if your kit does not offer that much travel)
-2 adjustable track bars (or at the very least track bar brackets)
-2 front control arms (either front lowers or front uppers)

If you're going with coils and shocks that articulate extremely well, you may also want to consider coil retainers - they're only an extra $65 if I recall correctly.

All of these items may seem like they're just a bunch of additional expenses that don't do anything for you - but each one serves to keep your suspension functioning properly after you alter it by making your rig taller.

-The bumpstop extensions keep your coils from compressing too much
-The brake lines keep your shorter stock brake lines from being stretched and damaged
-The sway bar links prevent any chance of your sway bars getting "wrapped" at full droop
-The control arms keep your caster within an acceptable range to prevent "flighty" steering
-The track bars keep your axle centered
-New shocks (instead of "shock extensions") allow you to make use of the additional travel offered by longer coils. If you're not putting on new shocks, don't expect to get any more travel than stock.

I am not saying that you're going to hate life if you buy a kit that is less than perfect - many people have bought budget-minded lifts and have been just fine. I just hope that we can provide enough information for you to make a truly informed decision, and understand that every manufacturer out there will tell you that their kit is "complete" and "engineered so that all the parts work together perfectly" and "top quality".
I agree with you 100%. And I am definately a researcher, so I get that all the parts listed ARE really needed to have it dialed in, but it really comes down to price, and how much wheeling I do.

I think maybe I should list what I have now, and what my plans are, and maybe you guys could give me some advise on what to change (if anything)

1-3/4" daystar BB
bilstein 5100 series shocks
rear brake line extensions
rear sway bar drop brackets
NO different bumpstops
NO different swaybar links - front, or rear
stock driveshafts, etc.
stock rubicon front swaybar disconnect

I do medium to medium/difficult wheeling a few times a year. I had 285/70/17's with steelies (4.5" bs) and it all worked well. (had to sell, but now we are back on track, so here I am again) Anyways- it was more noticable when the bigger meats were on, but the rear axle is shifted to one side about a 1/4". It really made no difference in driving on or off road. But you could tell it was off. I would like to fit 33's again maybe even 34's. I would like to add a winch, but that probably won't happen for quite a while. I would not mind sitting a little higher, but I can't afford to buy too many parts, as I KNOW I want new wheels/tires again, and I also will be buying a CB, some sort of on board air, maybe a hi lift jack, etc. so the funds will be stretched as it is.

I can afford something like the teraflex 2.5 coil lift (and reuse my shocks) or maybe the OME basic kit, but that really leaves no $$ for the other parts like driveshafts, trackbars, etc.
So that is my dilemma, should I buy a small coil lift, and call it a day and hope it all works together? Or, should I just add rear spring retainers( I am a little concerned about the rear springs, because my shocks are longer than my lift), stick with the 33's and wait till I NEED to change it if I ever do a winch and bumpers?

btw - thanks to everyone for giving their opinions. I really appreciate your patience.
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Old Dec 24, 2010 | 07:17 AM
  #30  
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That was a good post..
Here a couple more things to consider..
I have experiance with the TF 2.5 BB and 2.5 coil.
They were both complete kits.
Not needing brake line extentions.
The unlimited no needing driveshafts. ( not sure about the 2dr)

I have found if you read the install instuctions prior to buying, you will discover if anyother components are needed. ie. driveshafts, ect.
The people at TF will tell you up front exactly what is needed.. I would imagine the other folks will as well...

Happy Hollidays!!!!

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