just the automatics. in 2011, they got rid of the tranny skid plate in favor of a "skid bar". they did this to help prevent the build up of heat but, it doesn't do much to protect your sump pan.

 

They acutally made the switch sometime during the 2010 production. I have a 2010 auto that came with the skid bar.

 

Not to get political but... You can thank Obama for the reduction in skid plates. Jeep is being forced by new regulations to increase fuel economy and weight reduction is key for a Jeep with the aerodynamics of a cardboard box. 800 pounds is worth about 1 mph as an industry average. The good news though is that the diesel in the 2013 Grand will help get the brand average up.

 

I have already bent the crossmember tube thing. Other than the fuel tank skid, I honestly can't tell the skids from anything else under my JK. Nothing looks like armor. So, there are less factory skids on a '12? No wonder I worry.

 

I have the River Raider engine/tranny skid on my 2012 JKUand it fits great. I was trying to decide between the 2 brands when I bought it and honestly I went with RR cause it was a little bit cheaper (in cost) it is rock solid and protects everything you need to protect. I do not think you can go wrong with either one honestly they are both great products.


I love how every time something changes that someone doesn't like it is Obama's fault just like gas that is Obama's fault too!

 

How much does the steel RR oil/transmission skids weigh?

 

shot of the 2012 EVO protek skids - just protects what you need and nothing more...

 

see on the passenger side, whatever that tube is called. So that gets replaced with the EVO or covered up?

 

I can't tell you about 2012's, but I can sure tell you about RR skids. They're nice for the curbs at a mall. Yes they're nice thick metal, but once you really take a look at them you may want to reconsider. It is an integrated system where the tranny skid is dependent upon the oil pan skid. The attaching hardware are three bull**** bevel headed screws (phillips screws really?) with rubber bushings (to reduce rattles) and the standard lock washers and nuts. Now this is the setup that holds the tranny skid to the engine skid. If those three small screws come lose, the tranny pan will drop in the front as it bolts up over the oil pan. Once these loosen up, they'll be gone quickly. I had to drive off of Poughkeepsie with the ************* tranny pan held up out of the way with bailing wire. Now let's talk about the **** hardware holding the rear of this pan to the crossmember. It uses allen pan head bolts. Cool, their shape will slide right over the rocks. NO! They distort if you look at them hard. Once distorted just try to get an allen wrench to catch in the hex hole and turn them. It took me almost six hours to remove that skid due to those bolts. I remember laying under there thanking my lucky stars I didn't have to access the rear of my front driveshaft while on the trail. Now in all fairness, I do still run their transfer skid as I used it to replace the Rockhard skid which wouldn't clear the Atlas. It now has real hardware holding it up. I also still have the engine skid too as I don't want to spend any more $$$ down there. I'd take a long, long look at EVO's setup. It looks like it just covers the critical areas without all of the extra metal which'll equal out to extra weight and more heat build up. I would like to see some picts of it installed though.

 

ouch, your experience and wayoflife's comments just made me decide. And $600 less. how rare is that? Thanks.