There is some truth to the boredom thing, but it's all about perspective. Early on I always ended up in the front of the runs, which ended up badly. I'd take dumb lines, just because I could, and even though I'd tell people not to try and follow my line, they'd see me pop up something and think they could do it. Straps, broken parts, hurt feelings, all of the above? Check. Now typically stick in the back and watch. I run with people with all levels of experience and have no problem helping out the newer guys and girls. Most are on 35's, and while they have to work a bit harder and run different lines, they all get to where we're going.

As far as a trailer queen? Mine hasn't been on a trailer in the almost 5 years I've owned it now. I kick around buying a trailer, but it's fun to drive from Phoenix to Moab, wheel all the tougher trails, and then drive home as everybody else loads their stuff up on trailers. It's also a good reminder to not do anything stupid because I do have to drive it home on Monday. I've driven the Jeep to my favorite spot in Mexico half a dozen times now, a few hundred miles south of the border, and had a blast. Setup right, there's no reason you can't DD one. Coming back last time I was dodging thunderstorms, running about 60 mph and was getting about 15 mpg, which is the best I've seen. Who buys a Jeep for mileage though, right?

I reference guys like you all the time when I point out it can be done, but lots of things come into play. How hard are you running? Where are you going? How much time is offroad? How much time is really severe offroad? With a JKUR with 44's, you'll do alright if you're careful. I have friends like you that run with us. They stay off the loud pedal and are very careful. I also have a buddy who tried running 37's with a D30 in his Sport, despite my suggestion that he throw some money in upgraded axles. About the 3rd time out he popped the front ring and pinion, badly, in the middle of the trail run. Luckily the difficult stuff was behind us. He got back and ordered up a Dynatrac and hasn't looked back.

You've got it right with the "for now" part. The problem is, typically when it stops being for now, you're not in your driveway or at the grocery store. It's in the middle of a rock pile, as the sun is going down, and it's getting ready to rain, or snow. It's never a good time.

Rotating mass is hard on parts, that's the bottom line. I know my Toyo's are 105 lbs each, then add the wheels and you're knocking on 140-150 lbs, which is pretty substantial compared to what they come with stock. At a bare minimum, if you're going to throw big rubber on, upgrade the brakes to something capable of quick stops. The factory binders go away fast when you need them the most.


My buddy's dead D30.

 

It's a year later since that post and I'm still doing fine. (Knock on wood) The Warden isn't one to agree with fixing what isn't broken (happy wife, happy life), so one day, I might decide to go a little hard on the trail and get that upgrade after all, but for now, I'm still going to baby her.

 

I have a buddy who is the same way. He's in a Rubi on 35's so he's got to try harder. I'm not saying you can't do what you're doing and get years out of the setup, I know people who have. It's all in what you want to do and how you treat it. I'm on 60's and I'm still careful with the loud pedal as I hate breaking shit.

 

I realize this is from a loooooooooong time ago but this is definitely where I'm currently at with my jeep. I just paid it off last month. I swore I'd wait to pay it off before I did dumb stuff as it's my daily driver. I've run a cheap ass Rancho short arm kit and RS9000 shocks since it had 1000 miles on it (it has 66k now.) I've run the same set of 35" Dick Cepek Extreme country tires on the stock 18" rims and 1.5" wheel spacers. I spent countless $$$ out of the gate in the front end combating death wobble from the get go (Currie heavy duty drag link and tie rod, yeti track bar, JKS disconnects.) Now I have to decide how far down the rabbit hole do I really want to go?!? Do I want the MC lock n load gamechanger and if I do, do I want the 6 pack shocks or Falcon 3.3's? Do I want the Gen Right kit and build it piece by piece? Do I want the EVO Enforcer stage 3 kit? Then I need front and rear driveshafts. Will I ever really need that much of a badass lift because I doubt I ever do anything really stupid in this Jeep??? Do I want to just bite the bullet and go with the Fusion axles? Do I want to pretty much pay for the jeep all over again??? Do you do it once and get it over with?

 

It's mind-boggling taking it all in, and tbh, depressing thinking about the financial commitment. That's why made a sticky thread with this info too. At least you know things to think about and keep in mind. As a few have pointed out, you can get by on less work. We all use the jeeps differently. The real problem is there is usually not this nice obvious line in the sand that you have to build to and will be fine. One change leads to another change, leads to another change, and usually, the leaps are a big financial commitment. I do think it makes a big difference if people are able to perform all the labor themselves and fix things when they break. Definitely not a path to go down if you're one that has to pay others to fix everything of install things for you. Best of luck in whatever you decide to do. If you run into issues we'll all be here to giggle a bit, then help you out.

 

I hear you man. It's always a pain when the Jeep is in the shop. I plan on going to d60's when the time comes, but until it's broken, I just can't justify/explain the cost. Tell your buddy I'll be praying for him. lol

 

So I have a sport on 33 ko2's that I sort of stumbled into completing most of the above list with... 44's front and rear, trusses, c gussets, lockers, 4.88's dif covers, axles, steering etc.

I'm running the 2.5 aev lift with the geo correction brackets (willing to by control arms if I need to). I'm wondering if I pick up some fender flares, and am willing to do a little cutting, if I can fit 3 37's and still get reasonable flex out here in colorado. Sounds like you're saying I can get there with some careful trimming and a few more parts on the 2.5?

 

Worst case here is you have to run more bumpstop to prevent stuffing tire too far. I've not run 37s on 2.5" lift so couldn't tell you how much you may or many not need. If you are set on going to 37s, I'd say really look at a 12.5 wide vs. 13.5. Every bit of weight matters and though I'd typically say 4.88s are more ideal for most driving with 3.6L, around the mountains I'd lean more to 5.13s (though you don't mention auto/manual so presuming auto which is more common).

 

thanks for that man. Yes, you assume correctly, running the auto with th 4.88's and 3.6 and although it's technically too short right now with somewhat worn 33's, I do love the the way it climbs the steep grades and maintains speed with ease, no hunting for gears etc. I looked at the google chart, and it says I'd still just barely be in "performance geared" territory with the 37's.

I think you're right on the bump stops too.