To be honest, I think it's how you want to use it. If you are using it to drive everyday (which you stated), then I would stay with 35's which many of us on the forum love. I switched to 35's a while ago and love the way they ride, both on and offroad. As alluded to before, once you go higher than 3" with the 2-door, then you are looking to change a host of other parts.

I just wanted you to know that there are plenty of us on the forum who drive everyday, wheel often, too, and who are happy with 35's...they are more than capable off-road, most importantly.

As an aside, 4.10's with 35's are not the worst. I think you'd be pushing it with 37's.

Good luck!

 

If you buy 35's now and then buy 37's later, you are still spending $ twice. Just take that extra $1500 and go 37's NOW with 5.13 (IMO) and RCV's. I got by wheeling and DDing on a rubi d44 with this set up for a long time. Then later either gusset/sleeve it or buy a prorock44 and fill it with all your parts. $1500 should buy all the parts, now you got to figure labor, especially a good gear installer. J.E.E.P.

 

Go 37's, for offroad , you'll be glad you did when your not scraping where the 35's are. I'm locked on a c-gussets d30, been running 37's for almost 2 yrs. I wheel conservatably on difficult trails, but I do carry spare axles. I'll upgrade if I blow the ring and pinion, but till then I'll carry on like I've been doing and upgrade other stuff.

 

Be prepared to spend big money if you want a reliable rig on 37s. Do it once and do it right the first time.

 

I am in the same situation. 2009 4 door Rubi with the same lift. It is not a daily driver now, but may be. Regardless, I am leaning towards the 37's. For a 4 door, I think that little extra clearance (1") can make a difference playing in the AZ rocks. I was already planning on sleeving/reinforcing the Cs and eventually replacing the axles whether I went with 35's or 37's. The only added cost in my situation might be what I need to spend to upgrade the steering components. I expect something like hydro assist would be beneficial.

 

Yup, yup, yup

 

Absolutely!

The difference in ride hight is 1" between a 35 and a 37 in theory but will vary significantly by tire brand.

I ran 37's with a straight lift, but needed to trim for my 38's (to avoid limiting my uptravel).

Also, flat fendering your stock flares is a cheap way to gain tire clearance for larger tires! There are easy instructions on this forum!

 

You don't need hydro assist with 35's. I didn't run it with 37's either and it was just fine. My 38's do make my steering lag, so it will probably be installed at some point.

 

When I bought my jeep it already had a 2.5 bb installed. So I got 35's and was happy and said I'd leave it at that. Now I want a 3.5 aev premium with 37's

 

What steering issues need to be addressed if going with 37's w/ a 4 door?