CT checking in
Hey guys, I'm looking at buying a ninja 250. Just wondering any one here ride a street bike? also where did you do the safety classes? I know I don't need them but I want them and a the 250 is the smallest bike to choose from so it shouldn't be to hard to learn on. Just wondering any advice? I figured some of you hear would know, you all know every thing else. 

Hey guys, I'm looking at buying a ninja 250. Just wondering any one here ride a street bike? also where did you do the safety classes? I know I don't need them but I want them and a the 250 is the smallest bike to choose from so it shouldn't be to hard to learn on. Just wondering any advice? I figured some of you hear would know, you all know every thing else. 

As far as the 250, it's great to learn on. In a month or 2 after riding it, you probally won't be happy with it anymore. They're cheap bikes to buy, but really hard to sell. Do yourself a favor and get a little bigger bike. A kawasaki ex 500 is a great little bike to learn on, not to powerful but is still fun to ride. Any 600's are fun overall bikes, they're the best bang for the buck if you can foot the bill for one. Don't be affraid to learn on a more powerfull bike, you won't have any problems. But, that's my 2 cents.
Must people change the gear ratio when they go to bigger tires. The more a driveshaft spins, per one rotation of the tire, the quicker the acceleration but slower overall top speed. The less a driveshaft spins, per one rotation of the tire, the slower the acceleration but higher overall top speed. The rear end ratio, say 4.1 for the rubi's, means the driveshaft has to spin 4.1 times to make the stock 32" tire spin one full rotation. If you increase to a 37" tire and keep the same 4.1 rear end ratio, the driveshaft will spin 3.54 times per one rotation of the tire. This gives you slower acceleration but greater over all top speed. So to get a 37" tire back to the same acceleration as a 32" you would need to regear to a to a 4.74 ratio. Hope this helped out a little bit.
UMM, yeah....made my head spin for a second, but then i read it again and it made more sense. so basically you dont HAVE to change your gears, but its better for acceleration purposes to do it.
Going with "shorter" gearing (higher number, i.e. 5.13) will make the most of your engine's output, relative to those bigger tires, etc., by bringing the number of rotations of your driveshaft relative to rotations of your tires closer to stock numbers... in the case of 5.13s, you'd actually end up with shorter gearing (better low-end acceleration, lesser top speed) than stock, even with 37" tires.
More info for you, Sue:
In my case, I have stock 32" tires right now, and 4.10 gearing, meaning my driveshaft (ds) rotates 4.1 times for every rotation of my axle (or wheels, if you prefer).
When I go up to 35" tires, if I keep my 4.10 gearing, it would take 3.75 rotations of the ds to make my axle rotate once... which would be considerably slower than stock. This means that I'd use less RPMs at any given speed than I would need to versus the stock set-up.... so it would take longer to get up to speed with this set up than stock would take, and as a result, I'd likely take a hit on gas mileage.
When I go up to 35" tires and up my gearing to 5.13, it would take 4.69 rotations of my ds to rotate my axle once. As a result, my engine would use more RPMs than in the set-up above, or even the stock set-up, and thus generate more output at any given speed than it would with either set-up. This makes it more responsive to the gas pedal, and because I wouldn't need to hammer the pedal to stay at speed, I'd likely gain back some MPGs.
Just think of it this way: The higher the number of the gearing, the higher the RPMs, the bigger the response to the gas pedal, and the lower the overall top speed... but top speed will still be more than enough for a Jeep.
In my case, I have stock 32" tires right now, and 4.10 gearing, meaning my driveshaft (ds) rotates 4.1 times for every rotation of my axle (or wheels, if you prefer).
When I go up to 35" tires, if I keep my 4.10 gearing, it would take 3.75 rotations of the ds to make my axle rotate once... which would be considerably slower than stock. This means that I'd use less RPMs at any given speed than I would need to versus the stock set-up.... so it would take longer to get up to speed with this set up than stock would take, and as a result, I'd likely take a hit on gas mileage.
When I go up to 35" tires and up my gearing to 5.13, it would take 4.69 rotations of my ds to rotate my axle once. As a result, my engine would use more RPMs than in the set-up above, or even the stock set-up, and thus generate more output at any given speed than it would with either set-up. This makes it more responsive to the gas pedal, and because I wouldn't need to hammer the pedal to stay at speed, I'd likely gain back some MPGs.
Just think of it this way: The higher the number of the gearing, the higher the RPMs, the bigger the response to the gas pedal, and the lower the overall top speed... but top speed will still be more than enough for a Jeep.
More info for you, Sue:
In my case, I have stock 32" tires right now, and 4.10 gearing, meaning my driveshaft (ds) rotates 4.1 times for every rotation of my axle (or wheels, if you prefer).
When I go up to 35" tires, if I keep my 4.10 gearing, it would take 3.75 rotations of the ds to make my axle rotate once... which would be considerably slower than stock. This means that I'd use less RPMs at any given speed than I would need to versus the stock set-up.... so it would take longer to get up to speed with this set up than stock would take, and as a result, I'd likely take a hit on gas mileage.
When I go up to 35" tires and up my gearing to 5.13, it would take 4.69 rotations of my ds to rotate my axle once. As a result, my engine would use more RPMs than in the set-up above, or even the stock set-up, and thus generate more output at any given speed than it would with either set-up. This makes it more responsive to the gas pedal, and because I wouldn't need to hammer the pedal to stay at speed, I'd likely gain back some MPGs.
Just think of it this way: The higher the number of the gearing, the higher the RPMs, the bigger the response to the gas pedal, and the lower the overall top speed... but top speed will still be more than enough for a Jeep.
In my case, I have stock 32" tires right now, and 4.10 gearing, meaning my driveshaft (ds) rotates 4.1 times for every rotation of my axle (or wheels, if you prefer).
When I go up to 35" tires, if I keep my 4.10 gearing, it would take 3.75 rotations of the ds to make my axle rotate once... which would be considerably slower than stock. This means that I'd use less RPMs at any given speed than I would need to versus the stock set-up.... so it would take longer to get up to speed with this set up than stock would take, and as a result, I'd likely take a hit on gas mileage.
When I go up to 35" tires and up my gearing to 5.13, it would take 4.69 rotations of my ds to rotate my axle once. As a result, my engine would use more RPMs than in the set-up above, or even the stock set-up, and thus generate more output at any given speed than it would with either set-up. This makes it more responsive to the gas pedal, and because I wouldn't need to hammer the pedal to stay at speed, I'd likely gain back some MPGs.
Just think of it this way: The higher the number of the gearing, the higher the RPMs, the bigger the response to the gas pedal, and the lower the overall top speed... but top speed will still be more than enough for a Jeep.


