So as the title indicates I'm pretty new to the forum but I have been jeeping for around 3 years. I have a 15' JK sport unlimited. I have a terraflex 2.5 inch spring and bump stop kit now with fox 2.0 piggybacks. I am looking at upgrading to 3 inches, and have heard various things about the need for an sye kit due to pinion angle etc. I would like some input or advice on if this is needed for 3 inches or anything beyond a certain height, any info helps, thank you!!

 

You won't need a "slip yoke eliminator" kit on a Jk lifted 3 inches... but You might need a new front driveshaft. You can run the stock for a while, but it will need swapped out because the boot will tear at the angle on the front.

 

Not sure why a 1/2" lift change?? Negligable. Are you wanting much larger diameter tires than existing. Cutting fenders helps there too without spring height changes

 

So I'm going to be needing a new lift anyways. The one that is in there now was applied by the previous owners and it's starting to dip alittle in the front. Springs are getting alittle spongy so I figure if I'm already in the market might as well get a little bit higher lift

 

Is there are particular brand/angle that you would recommend? I haven't really done any research into shafts, so wouldn't really know where to start.

 

Driveshafts are such a basic thing. You might check your local options if there are some axle & gear companies around your area. Sometimes they are cheaper, sometimes they are not. Adams is a popular brand online and fine for most. Tom Woods is a reputable quality company, but they cost a bit more. There are a lot of other brands too though. Outside of the type of DS you pick, the biggest difference could be wall thickness of the tube and greaseable vs. solid u-joints etc. Wait till the jeep has a new suspension under it so you can just do a proper measurement for DS length.

 

From my own experience, I suggest getting a driveshaft that doesn't have greaseable zerks. In my "infinite wisdom" I bought a greaseable one. I thought yeah I don't mind doing this every 3000 miles! It will keep it in good condition and I know there is grease in there! Turns out that every time I go to lube the double cardan at the transfer case, I need to un-mount the shaft from the transfer so I can get my needle fitting into the double cardan. It's a time sink, and if I could turn back the clock would have gone with the non-greaseable HD Adams.

 

Seizer, I have a DC and I easily reach the grease zerk and do it every 6000kms. Takes a minute at each end. I also spray painted the zerk to make it easier to find but am not sure why yours was so different. I run 1310 U joints though not 1350s which IMO are overkill unless one wants to do serious rock work.

 

@Sixty4x4 I've tried every needle fitting I have access to get that one DC flat faced zerk. It never wants to go in and makes a mess. I just pull the shaft from the transfer case and have an assistant pump the gun while I hold my needle fitting against it. Can you please show me what needle fitting you use to get the DC? Possibly a link to where I can buy the one you are using?

 

Just another - are you looking to get a whole system or kit (coils, shocks, adjustable control arms, front drive shaft) ? do you have adjustable front lower control arms now? or will you go the frankenstein method and piece it together? cheap says buy 1" spacers and shock extenders and be done with it. A lot of folks on this site like Metal Cloak , me included. There are a few more solid choices depending on how deep you want to get into it.