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View Poll Results: Interested in new headlights
Yes
944
94.40%
No
56
5.60%
Voters: 1000. You may not vote on this poll

New JK Headlights

Old Feb 3, 2010 | 10:12 AM
  #701  
RevyJKU08's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: BC
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Originally Posted by joneszj
There is a gigantic difference. I probably should have taken before and after shining up against the garage door, but didn't think of it till afterwards. The light is a little bluer than the silverstars, but it is way brighter. The biggest upgrade was the actual housing, like where it directs the light. The stock housings are junk and this actually lights up the road like its supposed to. I've driven newer vehicles with Xenons and these are about as close as you can get to that. Not to mention they are way way way better than throwing a HID kit in the stock headlights. The only arguably better upgrade might be the True Xenon Projector lights but from what I remember they are like $800 or something absurd like that. And this to me was easier than dealign with the Daniel Stern upgrade that a lot of people do. Sorry for being long-winded.

Good to hear....Another Gitty Canadian can't wait for the lights to arrive
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 04:25 PM
  #702  
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From: Fonthill,Ontario
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alrighty then its about time. can't wait
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 07:13 AM
  #703  
C.R.U.S.H.'s Avatar
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From: Carroll County, Md
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Originally Posted by X-caiver
The grease helps keep gunk and water out of the connectors. If you plan on driving through water and mud a lot you should go back and grease up. If you don't plan on doing that frequently you're probably fine. In my old car I never added new grease when I replaed bulbs, and they never got wet enough to rust or whatever.
It's OK to get the grease in by the connecting pins? or just on the plastic kinda like caulking it to keep moisture out.
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 07:25 AM
  #704  
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From: Alberta
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Are you guys talking about dielectric grease?

Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current. This property makes it an ideal lubricant and sealant for the rubber portions of electrical connectors.

Dielectric grease is typically a translucent, grey substance that is insoluble in substances such as ethanol, methanol, mineral oil, and water. It is soluble, however, in the industrial solvent methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) and mineral spirit. It is important to note that dielectric grease will melt silicone rubber over time, and thus should not be used on connectors, such as o-rings, that are made of this rubber.

While the indicated use of dielectric grease calls for it to be used only on the non-metal parts of a connection, it has been shown to be effective at preventing corrosion when applied directly to the metal connectors as well. Care should be taken when using it in this way, because this application can, in some instances, cause the connection to stop working. A common reason for such a failure is that the grease has not been pushed entirely out of the way between the two points of contact.

Dielectric grease is most widely used as a sealant for spark plugs, and is applied to the rubber boot of the plug wire. The grease not only helps the boot slide onto the ceramic portion of the plug, but prevents dirt, moisture, sand, and other foreign objects from contaminating the seal, and compromising the electrical current. Dielectric grease is also commonly used on the gaskets of multi-pin connectors in car and marine engines.

It can withstand high temperatures, making it an ideal substance for use in engine compartments and other similar locations. Most standard brands of dielectric grease are rated to 392° F (200° C), and many can operate at up to 500° F (260° C). A typical tube of grease generally sells for around $5 US Dollars (USD) per .33 ounce (9.4 gram) tube.
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 08:01 AM
  #705  
C.R.U.S.H.'s Avatar
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From: Carroll County, Md
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yeah, I wasn't sure exactly where to apply the grease on the female connector that the pigtail connects to. So I didn't apply any grease to that connection.

I applied a small amount on the femal plug that the IPF connects to.

This afternoon I took the grill apart again and applied some grease to the mail end of the connection so as to keep the
goo away from the pins. Then I wrapped some silver metallic duct tape around the connection to ensure its water tight.
I'm an overkill kinda guy... it's a sickness.

Last edited by C.R.U.S.H.; Feb 4, 2010 at 12:10 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 06:13 PM
  #706  
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From: Long Island, NY
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I've aquired the parts to make my own pigtails to convert the H13 to H4.
one question: which H13 wire goes to which H4 wire?

specifically, if I'm facing the jeep and the female socket end of the harness, the H13 has three wires in a row (all horizontal). the H4 has what I'll call three sides of a square. left side, top (middle) & right side.

so which connects to which?
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 07:36 AM
  #707  
adamisadam's Avatar
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From: Long Island, NY
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Originally Posted by eisenjj
I am like you...that's why I bought the kit!
so can someone look at their harness & tell me how they're wired?
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 10:47 AM
  #708  
ry329's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Levittown PA.
Default Harness pic's

How's this...
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Old Feb 6, 2010 | 05:21 PM
  #709  
adamisadam's Avatar
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From: Long Island, NY
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Originally Posted by ry329
How's this...
Thanks a lot!
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 04:24 AM
  #710  
pjf00's Avatar
JK Newbie
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 12
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From: White Plains, NY
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just installed in in a 2010. did not click in and i could not modify the pigtail right to get it to click. i wire tied for now, looking to get the replacement pigtails when available
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