Poison Spyder Evap Skid
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Henderson, NV
Even though I was able to move my stock 2012 evap and skid over almost 2 inches I believe folks that are not as cheap as I am would be better off using the PSC skid.
Stock, the 2012 evap is way too close to the drive shaft, and will rip the boot the first time you do anything to flex the rear end and to add insult to injury, the stock evap and skid setup hangs really low on the 2012 as well. If I could find an extra $110 that I don't need for every other mod I want to do, I would get the PSC for my 2012 and get rid of the stock 2012 pos skid set up for sure.
Stock, the 2012 evap is way too close to the drive shaft, and will rip the boot the first time you do anything to flex the rear end and to add insult to injury, the stock evap and skid setup hangs really low on the 2012 as well. If I could find an extra $110 that I don't need for every other mod I want to do, I would get the PSC for my 2012 and get rid of the stock 2012 pos skid set up for sure.
Thread Starter
Former Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
From: Mentone, CA
I'd like to add onto BBolanders excellent install article for a 2012 JKUR by showing what I did to resolve the clip problem. Just like he did, I broke the stock clip. I tried to be as careful as possible removing it, but to no avail.
A quick trip to AutoZone found the following Ford parts, and they worked like a champ. The black 3/8 clip was perfect - I show a white 5/16 in my hand for clarity against the dark background.
A quick trip to AutoZone found the following Ford parts, and they worked like a champ. The black 3/8 clip was perfect - I show a white 5/16 in my hand for clarity against the dark background.
JK Newbie
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Chino Valley, AZ.
Dusty,
Thanks for the stout skid! Hope I never need it, but it's cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned.
It might be worth including one in the kit for 2012 owners. Certainly would be a good item for a professional installer to have as well. Time is money, and I wasted about 45 minutes total on it, and that's a big loss on a 30 minute job.
Thanks for the stout skid! Hope I never need it, but it's cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned.
It might be worth including one in the kit for 2012 owners. Certainly would be a good item for a professional installer to have as well. Time is money, and I wasted about 45 minutes total on it, and that's a big loss on a 30 minute job.
Thread Starter
Former Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 776
Likes: 0
From: Mentone, CA
JK Freak
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: West Bloomfield, Michigan
i knew if i were going to have problems it would be getting the wiring and tube connectors off of the evap cannister. the ps instructions are written for the earlier jk's, and the 2012's are different.
the electrical wire connector has a flat folded tab on the driveshaft side. i put a flat screwdriver in the fold, twisted it to open the clip on the cannister end and it came of easily. it seems like all wiring connectors on the jk have a locking tab of some sort and this one does.
next i put a flat screwdriver at the base of the rubber hose connector and pushed it up into the rubber some, wiggled it and it came off pretty easily. it wouldn't just pull off without doing that. it was probably easy since my jk is only two months old.
the 2012 cannister has two white plastic tube connectors on the driveshaft side. took a while to figure out how to disconnect them. they're very hard to get to so after struggling on the large one, i undid the bolt underneath the stock skid that bolts into the evap cannister so i could slide the cannister back and get better access to them. they have plastic c-clamps that hold the connectors on the cannister behind the boss on the cannister connections. i broke the small one trying to get it off, went to the dealer to order one and as you'd expect, you have to buy the whole tube for around $70 just to get the connector. so i decided to try making it work without buying a new tube. i think the trick is might be to use a small angle allen wrench to push the ends of the c clamp down and out to unhook them, after they're unhooked you can use a flat screwdriver or your fingers to pull them out. here are the connector pictures including the broken one for the smaller connector at the botttom:
Attachment 244595Attachment 244584
the electrical wire connector has a flat folded tab on the driveshaft side. i put a flat screwdriver in the fold, twisted it to open the clip on the cannister end and it came of easily. it seems like all wiring connectors on the jk have a locking tab of some sort and this one does.
next i put a flat screwdriver at the base of the rubber hose connector and pushed it up into the rubber some, wiggled it and it came off pretty easily. it wouldn't just pull off without doing that. it was probably easy since my jk is only two months old.
the 2012 cannister has two white plastic tube connectors on the driveshaft side. took a while to figure out how to disconnect them. they're very hard to get to so after struggling on the large one, i undid the bolt underneath the stock skid that bolts into the evap cannister so i could slide the cannister back and get better access to them. they have plastic c-clamps that hold the connectors on the cannister behind the boss on the cannister connections. i broke the small one trying to get it off, went to the dealer to order one and as you'd expect, you have to buy the whole tube for around $70 just to get the connector. so i decided to try making it work without buying a new tube. i think the trick is might be to use a small angle allen wrench to push the ends of the c clamp down and out to unhook them, after they're unhooked you can use a flat screwdriver or your fingers to pull them out. here are the connector pictures including the broken one for the smaller connector at the botttom:
Attachment 244595Attachment 244584
