Poison Spyder Evap Skid
When I installed it on my '12 I just used some tin snips to cut the stock skid plate and bent it so I could slide the entire canister out without removing any of the connections. The OEM plate is (as another forum member described it) about as thick as a soup can so its pretty easy to cut. You can install this skid plate without unplugging EVAP cannister if you just make sure everything is lined up when you put it together.
Originally Posted by DTS
Scroll back a couple of pages. Cactus Red found an inexpensive replacement clip at AutoZone.
I'd like to add onto BBolanders excellent install article for a 2012 JKUR by showing what I did to resolve the clip problem. Just like he did, I broke the stock clip. I tried to be as careful as possible removing it, but to no avail.
A quick trip to AutoZone found the following Ford parts, and they worked like a champ. The black 3/8 clip was perfect - I show a white 5/16 in my hand for clarity against the dark background.
A quick trip to AutoZone found the following Ford parts, and they worked like a champ. The black 3/8 clip was perfect - I show a white 5/16 in my hand for clarity against the dark background.
Just installed this tonight on a 2012. I am wondering how tight the strap needs to be to keep the canister from moving. Seems that movement of the canister would cause wear and possible damage to the rear hose/wire connections. I pretty much had to tighten the strap bolt/nut completely before I couldn't move the canister any more by hand and on the trail that might not be enough. It would be good for the 2012's to add a bolt hole in the back for the canister mount as this would stop any forward/back movement and would mark the appropriate spot to mount the canister. Thought about drilling one myself but I already had it mostly installed and I managed to get it on without unplugging everything by cutting off the factory skid as somebody suggested a few days ago.
Just installed this tonight on a 2012. I am wondering how tight the strap needs to be to keep the canister from moving. Seems that movement of the canister would cause wear and possible damage to the rear hose/wire connections. I pretty much had to tighten the strap bolt/nut completely before I couldn't move the canister any more by hand and on the trail that might not be enough. It would be good for the 2012's to add a bolt hole in the back for the canister mount as this would stop any forward/back movement and would mark the appropriate spot to mount the canister. Thought about drilling one myself but I already had it mostly installed and I managed to get it on without unplugging everything by cutting off the factory skid as somebody suggested a few days ago.
Maybe the answer is a thin 6in x 9in flat rubber piece. I dont know, just something that worries me slightly.
Regardless...that is 1 beefy skid and I love it.
BTKillerr




