Seems storage is not an issue with this item.

 

You've know about this for months, but still haven't gone through and replaced the instructions/bolt sets?
Apparently, even though mine was purchased in September, I got another one of the "old" instruction sets. And this is after they had to unbox it to powdercoat it (I know this because they had to delay shipping to actually do the powdercoating, per their emails). Do the new instructions tell where the cross bracing is (ie, where not to cut deep?) I don't have x ray vision, and was basically going by feel. I ended up scoring most of the bracing, but not cutting through. We will see if it holds.
However, using the newer website instructions, I was able to install the 7 bolts that are at a brace.

Last but not least, the hardware sent with the louvers is of poor quality. The locknuts locked before tight, causing the top of the button bolt to strip on 4 of them. I'm going to have to drill them out. I was only using hand tools, so it isn't like my impact driver was doing the stripping. And this was after using anti-seize.

 

installing my louver kit this weekend on my 12 jku

 

Dr.McNinja, yes it is somethng we addressed and corrected months ago. For the life of me I can't figure out how you wound up with an old template. I went out to the warehouse and checked all of our inventory to see if perhaps there were stray old templates sitting around after I had ordered them all destroyed, and I can't find any. Everything we have on hand is the new template--boxed up Hood Louvers, extra inventory of bulk templates, etc. So I can't give you an explanation as to what happened, all I can do is apologize for that inconvenience. I do know that it must be a rare or unique occurrence, as we've shipped hundreds of these since we switched out the template, and other than a few hiccups during the transition everyone seems to have been receiving the correct one since then. All of the install photos I see posted here and on other sites, plus feedback and photos we receive from customers, indicates that they are receiving and using the correct template. Do you still have the template you received? If so, can you email me a photo of it just so I can positively ID it?

Also, the new template would not have helped you with your lack of x-ray vision, as it also does not note the location of the under-hood braces. As noted in the instructions, installation of this product requires careful use of the cutting tools to cut through the outer sheetmetal and not through the inner brace.

The bolts seem to be an ongoing issue that we have been trying to figure out. Our techs here in the shop seem to be able to install hood louvers without destroying the bolts but we do get occasional complaints from customers about them. The issue is not that they are sub-standard quality. For what they are, (a 10-32 stainless steel button head cap screw), they are the best available, purchased through Fastenal. But they are small, with fine threads, and stainless steel, all of which contribute to the problem. We use small ones so they are less obtrusive in appearance. We use stainless ones so they won't rust or dull. But stainless steel is a softer compound than a Grade 8 bolt, so extra care has to be taken with them. One thing we did recently change was switching to coarse thread bolts, hopefully those will survive better. That doesn't help you at this point but if you'd like, we would be happy to send you replacements for the stripped ones.

All in all, I'm sorry you had a negative experience with our product. We sell tons of these and the feedback is overwhelmingly positive, so we regret that a combination of unfortunate issues have happened in your case. If there is something we can do to make it up to you please give our sales department a call and let them know. I've shared this message with them so they are aware of it.

 

You know, now that I think about it, I had 2 bolts that were no good also. Completely forgot about it. I went to the hardware store and picked up 2 more, never gave it a second thought. I like my hood louver.

 

Regrettably, I had used the template, and threw it away when I was done. Trash was picked up already, so I can't dig it out. I honestly can say it did not include the "use hole saw at these locations" near the hinges and the front right. In fact, your advice earlier in this thread is what kept me from buying longer screws, and I was able to fix that problem.

Careful is one thing. Cutting through one of two layers of sheetmetal that are bound together is another. I'm not saying it has to be exact, but maybe a "don't cut as deep around here" with some wiggle room. I was using a cutoff wheel, but it's hard to keep it in a straight line unless you actually put some depth on the blade so it doesn't wander around. It would go faster if I knew areas where there were no worries, but had warnings in the areas I should be more careful.

Nah, the packaging came with 30 screws, so I've got 6 extra at this time. The louver itself, and the ease of your template (compared to some others out there which are less user friendly) were excellent. Really it was just a combination of the older instructions with the fact that bolt 1 was fine, bolts 2, 3 and 5 seized, and then I started getting worried. Only one more seized after that, but even being careful it happened. Not sure how your guys have never had it happen, but many others out here have. What are you guys using for anti-seize? I still recommend the product, just with caveats. Hopefully your new bolts fix that problem.
Mainly it was just frustration that I had to put the hood back on with 7 missing bolts (so I could go to the store), then find the other instructions, and decide to cut the holes without removing the hood. Then painting the new holes, etc.
Here's a picture of my almost finished hood in a poorly lit garage. I'll try and get some better ones outside in the daylight. I was ecstatic that it fit with the hood deflector.

 

How is the powercoat on the louver holding up to the heat from the engine bay? Was looking at getting one and Northridge 4x4 only charges 30 bucks for the powercoat . . . .

 

We haven't heard any reports of problems due to that reason. I don't think the heat from the engine bay is as hot as the oven was when the stuff was baked on there.

 

well i showed dad and i was gona get one and he told me if i get one im making it, so can i get a quick question and ask how thick of sheet metal that is? i know your not makin any money off of me but i do love your products, but im 17 and poor lol

 

ticking coming through from the outside ! remember Chrysler adds the padding to keep the noise levels down