Hello All. I have a high-pitched brake noise from the front passenger wheel. It primarily happens with light braking. It also happens occasionally when making tight turns in a parking lot with no brakes applied. It started after having a frozen caliper replaced (there was a lot of heat from the caliper event).

Pads and rotors were done after the caliper while chasing the noise. When I pulled the wheel I see the outer/bottom anti-rattle clip has a shiny edge on the side that faces the rotor (all others have brake dust on the edge). That seems to be what's making the noise.

The wheel hub was done today for a bad sensor. They inspected the brakes and couldn't find anything.

2007 JKU with 280k.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

 

Sounds like the wear tab is bent too far forward. Bend it back a bit or chop it off. I say drivers that wait for the squeal to change the brakes are not inspecting their brakes as often as they should. I check mine twice a year for caliper mounting bolts free floating, pad wear, rotor wear, hoses, lines, brackets etc. Threw away those stupid noise makers.

 

Thanks for the reply!

I don't think it's the wear tab. FWIW, the brake pads were fairly new when the caliper was stuck. The noise appeared so I decided to replace the pads thinking they were damaged from the heat that was generated by the caliper. What appears to be rubbing is the anti-rattle clip that goes in the caliper bracket. As if the caliper bracket is too close to the rotor and possibly at an angle because only one clip is touching. I only see evidence of contact on the outer bottom clip on the side that faces the rotor. I replaced the clip with no change. It's seated properly, etc.

 

OK then. What I do when I change brakes is "clean" the 2 grooves that the ratlle clip sit in because of rust buildup. I use a small square file and clean the scale and rust away. The other thing is does your caliper float on the two mounting bolts assembly easily. If not the caliper never sits parallel to the rotor. The floating mechanism should always be replaced when replacing pads or at least cleaned, lubed and new rubber bellow seals replaced.

 

I'm fairly certain the clip is in correctly because I've inspected it closely. I'll pull the wheel again to inspect the rest. I'll also pull the opposite wheel to compare. The bracket does seem like it's not really centered around the rotor (slightly closer on the outer than the inner). I don't know if that's normal. Pulling the other wheel should answer that question.

 

They may be shifted over or swapped

 

A frozen caliper replacement probably points to a seized caliper mount. They usually go hand in hand so if that's the case then free up the floating pins. If this work was does by a shop then there is some recourse for you.

 

If I recall I had the same issue, i either swapped the l to r or i used a screwdriver to pry back on it so its flush with the caliper. I think it was swapped. Or I went back to the originals or to the replacements etc.

 

Thanks for the reply. I brought it back to the shop that did the work and they said everything was fine. They're usually very good but they couldn't figure this out. I'm planning to look myself tomorrow.

 

I'll try that when I look at it. Thanks!