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Hard top cracks from fasteners

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Old Apr 18, 2008 | 09:49 PM
  #11  
TINMAN080's Avatar
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From: Virginia Woods
Default self-stick plates

Originally Posted by Woods
You bring a great point, in that this is what I'd expect a dealer to say. Not giving you a hard time, you really bring a good point that folks should know about. The fact that this isn't fiberglass is bad news. If it was fiberglass one could chalk this up to gel-coat cracks. But to your point these cracks may actually go through the entire structure.
I only use a screwdriver with a torx bit to tighten these bolts. Not using a ratchet or anything. Here nor there, I think this is another example of how Jeep should have done it. I'm going to make some 10 gauge plates that cover the square area in the picture. I'll attach them with double sided tape and call it the way it should have been made.
Sounds like a clean solution,self-stick plates would look great and no loose hardware to keep up with. I like this idea! I'll watch for your plates.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #12  
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I had this happen to one of my bolts during installation. I think the instructions had some rediculously large torque spec (like 100#s or more). I felt sick after doing this to a top just out of the delivery packaging.

However, this does seem to be FRP (fiber reinforced plastic), which is a kind of Fiberglas (or figerglass). We used this material at an Owens Corning bathtub factory. It's similar to a choppergun but the fibers are chopped up shorter, then added to the plastic/resin compound (colored white), then rolled out into sheets. The sheets are cut to size, folded, then placed in one big freakin' hot press which stamps/cooks the pieces. Blah, blah, blah...

Anyway, we used to repair cracks and pin holes with resin before we shipped them. So, if this really is FRP, then it is possible that resin can be applied to strengthen the flange. I'll deal with this when the hard top comes off for the summer. I'll have to verify the material first.

By the way, if it is compatible with resin, it's possible to customize the inside of the top as well (molded speaker enclosures, storage bins, light housings, etc.)
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 11:10 AM
  #13  
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From: Mount Carmel, PA
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Brett, I checked mine and I have one crack. Im using cool tech's thumbs screws, so I know I didnt over tighten.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 11:33 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Woods
You bring a great point, in that this is what I'd expect a dealer to say. Not giving you a hard time, you really bring a good point that folks should know about. The fact that this isn't fiberglass is bad news. If it was fiberglass one could chalk this up to gel-coat cracks. But to your point these cracks may actually go through the entire structure.
I only use a screwdriver with a torx bit to tighten these bolts. Not using a ratchet or anything. Here nor there, I think this is another example of how Jeep should have done it. I'm going to make some 10 gauge plates that cover the square area in the picture. I'll attach them with double sided tape and call it the way it should have been made.
Why not just make a long metal strip to go on both sides with the corresponding bolt holes? Just an idea.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 01:22 PM
  #15  
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From: Bartlett, TN
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Originally Posted by bly109
hey man Im just busting on ya I have enough projects to keep me busy, so Im not in a hurry, but wife keeps commenting on how cute that one lonely bracket looks

my install lists for the weekend:

steering stabilizer relocation bracket
passenger side River Raider slider
rear Teraflex trackbar bracket
the last two bolts on rockhard gas tank skid
Hypertech Max energy
RR mirror brackets
JKS miniskid and tack weld ujoints if I have time.....
The parts are really starting to pile up again....

oh yeah and if its nice out:

switch tops
clean garage
wax jeep

and I have work saturday

So take as much time as you need Brett, I can wait
How did the Max Energy install go?
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Darnell
How did the Max Energy install go?
good, once I removed fuses 10, 11 & 13. I only removed the mygig fuse and I got the 7E wormcode error. After I got that code, I looked it up here and found the answer. I didnt have to wait to call tech support on monday. That's why I love this forum!!
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 08:51 PM
  #17  
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JeepSWAG
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
Why not just make a long metal strip to go on both sides with the corresponding bolt holes? Just an idea.
It's not a flat surface so it would drive up the cost without any additional benefit.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 04:41 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Woods
It's not a flat surface so it would drive up the cost without any additional benefit.
Well, since my Jeep's been in the shop goin on TWO WEEKS, I didn't have it to go look.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 07:54 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
Well, since my Jeep's been in the shop goin on TWO WEEKS, I didn't have it to go look.
Oh believe me, I appreciate you guys keeping me on my toes.
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 02:15 PM
  #20  
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From: Winnipeg
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I have the same crack....I have never removed my rear top.
Here are some pictures.


Last edited by cmpmacchia; Aug 14, 2008 at 02:30 PM.
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