Hard top cracks from fasteners
You bring a great point, in that this is what I'd expect a dealer to say. Not giving you a hard time, you really bring a good point that folks should know about. The fact that this isn't fiberglass is bad news. If it was fiberglass one could chalk this up to gel-coat cracks. But to your point these cracks may actually go through the entire structure.
I only use a screwdriver with a torx bit to tighten these bolts. Not using a ratchet or anything. Here nor there, I think this is another example of how Jeep should have done it. I'm going to make some 10 gauge plates that cover the square area in the picture. I'll attach them with double sided tape and call it the way it should have been made.
I only use a screwdriver with a torx bit to tighten these bolts. Not using a ratchet or anything. Here nor there, I think this is another example of how Jeep should have done it. I'm going to make some 10 gauge plates that cover the square area in the picture. I'll attach them with double sided tape and call it the way it should have been made.
I had this happen to one of my bolts during installation. I think the instructions had some rediculously large torque spec (like 100#s or more). I felt sick after doing this to a top just out of the delivery packaging.
However, this does seem to be FRP (fiber reinforced plastic), which is a kind of Fiberglas (or figerglass). We used this material at an Owens Corning bathtub factory. It's similar to a choppergun but the fibers are chopped up shorter, then added to the plastic/resin compound (colored white), then rolled out into sheets. The sheets are cut to size, folded, then placed in one big freakin' hot press which stamps/cooks the pieces. Blah, blah, blah...
Anyway, we used to repair cracks and pin holes with resin before we shipped them. So, if this really is FRP, then it is possible that resin can be applied to strengthen the flange. I'll deal with this when the hard top comes off for the summer. I'll have to verify the material first.
By the way, if it is compatible with resin, it's possible to customize the inside of the top as well (molded speaker enclosures, storage bins, light housings, etc.)

However, this does seem to be FRP (fiber reinforced plastic), which is a kind of Fiberglas (or figerglass). We used this material at an Owens Corning bathtub factory. It's similar to a choppergun but the fibers are chopped up shorter, then added to the plastic/resin compound (colored white), then rolled out into sheets. The sheets are cut to size, folded, then placed in one big freakin' hot press which stamps/cooks the pieces. Blah, blah, blah...

Anyway, we used to repair cracks and pin holes with resin before we shipped them. So, if this really is FRP, then it is possible that resin can be applied to strengthen the flange. I'll deal with this when the hard top comes off for the summer. I'll have to verify the material first.
By the way, if it is compatible with resin, it's possible to customize the inside of the top as well (molded speaker enclosures, storage bins, light housings, etc.)
You bring a great point, in that this is what I'd expect a dealer to say. Not giving you a hard time, you really bring a good point that folks should know about. The fact that this isn't fiberglass is bad news. If it was fiberglass one could chalk this up to gel-coat cracks. But to your point these cracks may actually go through the entire structure.
I only use a screwdriver with a torx bit to tighten these bolts. Not using a ratchet or anything. Here nor there, I think this is another example of how Jeep should have done it. I'm going to make some 10 gauge plates that cover the square area in the picture. I'll attach them with double sided tape and call it the way it should have been made.
I only use a screwdriver with a torx bit to tighten these bolts. Not using a ratchet or anything. Here nor there, I think this is another example of how Jeep should have done it. I'm going to make some 10 gauge plates that cover the square area in the picture. I'll attach them with double sided tape and call it the way it should have been made.
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Hypertech Representative
Hypertech Representative
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 357
Likes: 1
From: Bartlett, TN
hey man Im just busting on ya
I have enough projects to keep me busy, so Im not in a hurry, but wife keeps commenting on how cute that one lonely bracket looks
my install lists for the weekend:
steering stabilizer relocation bracket
passenger side River Raider slider
rear Teraflex trackbar bracket
the last two bolts on rockhard gas tank skid
Hypertech Max energy
RR mirror brackets
JKS miniskid and tack weld ujoints if I have time.....
The parts are really starting to pile up again....

oh yeah and if its nice out:
switch tops
clean garage
wax jeep
and I have work saturday

So take as much time as you need Brett, I can wait


good, once I removed fuses 10, 11 & 13. I only removed the mygig fuse and I got the 7E wormcode error. After I got that code, I looked it up here and found the answer. I didnt have to wait to call tech support on monday. That's why I love this forum!!
Thread Starter
JeepSWAG
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 1
From: Costa Mesa, Ca.
Thread Starter
JeepSWAG
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,824
Likes: 1
From: Costa Mesa, Ca.




