mcnaught6

i just bought a 1/2" bolt that is about the same size as my 17mm hex socket (a kit of sockets for various drain bolts) and IT WAS TOO LONG!!! it wouldn't fit in that space!

dammit!!! how does anyone get this friggin' bolt out???

is there any difference in the clearance, in that area, between the 2dr's and 4dr's? i have a 2dr and can't even fit the 1/2" bolt in there to do this.

how do the dealer's do it?

Sieran

Has anyone else figured out an easy way to get that bottom drain bolt out? I don't have access to tools that would allow me to modify something to make it fit.

The closest thing i could find is a short 17mm hex at Autozone, but it misses the clearance by about 1/4 of an inch... not including the socket wrench that would have to attach.

Would a bolt the same size held by vice grips be able to get that plug out, or would i need more gip than that?

Thanks,

Andrew

mcnaught6

i bought a pack of three "drain plug sockets" from autozone. it has a 17mm and a 14mm. the 17mm fits the drain plug - but here's the catch. it's obviously too large to fit in there with a socket. i cut off the end of it, then i can put the 17mm hex part, that i just cut off, in the drain plug and stick a 17mm wrench on it to turn the plug.

JackMac4

Could we see a pic of this?

JLK

This is what I did.Get a bolt with a 17mm hex and put a nut to match then cut it with a hacksaw then hit it a few times with a hammer so the nut won't come off. this works for the drain plug.

toadontheroad

OK. Back to changing the fluid... I drained it and it looks to be less than the 2 quarts mentioned. More like only one quart. Will there be any problems adding fluid up to the fill plug level?

CIJeep

What I do in this situation is buy another allen wrench and cut off a portion of the short end. Takes all the fuss out of it.

Thanks for the heads up on the oil change, I sometimes have a slight "click" coming out of gear fewer times when it is going into gear. I don't have many miles on it yet, but the clicking feels a lot like the sychronizer rings meshing/hanging up. I figured it would just break in and get better. A good grade of oil after a slight run in could make all the difference in the world, especially if the metal chips are flushed out.

Now as to the hot oil running on a hot exhaust and I see a huge potential for a fire. The picture proves it.

Now as to the condensate drain, does anyone have a pict? Looks like that one should be addressed with an extended drain hose or something.

toadontheroad

When I removed the drail there was quite a bit of magnetized sludge on the magnet. I hope not all of it was metal. I'm thinking the agitation can polarize the fluid and if theres SOME metal in it then it can form a ball of sludge, like static electricity. Does that sound nuts?

BTW, I put in 2 quarts.

toadontheroad

Like others, I went to OSH and bought the shortest 10mm hex head bolt and a 10mm jam nut. I screwed the nut on the bolt, secured it with loc-tite with the hex portion liked up, then in a vise I cut off the escess thread with a hack saw. I used an open end 17mm wrench to remove the drain. Worked great.

mcnaught6

sorry, it's been a while since i looked at this thread....don't know what made me look at it today, but here are pics of what i did, if anyone is still interested.
these hex sockets are sold in packs of 2 or 3 ( i don't remember which ) at most auto parts stores. they are labeled as "drain plug sockets."

the size you need is a 17mm. the pics just show a couple others that haven't been cut down to show what they look like before.

i used an angle grinder to cut the end off (not a very smooth cut, but it doesn't matter). if you have a bench vise (or a buddy to hold it) a recip saw would be much easier to cut it (i don't have a buddy, or a vise )

pics: