i have a manual so a really use it a lot. mine works but you have to really put some torque on it. if you just pull it pretty good it will still roll slowly, and then i give it a good pull for another couple of clicks and she will hold. However, i don't think you should have to pull it so hard, espesially when it is less than a year old.

 

You're right, it should work as stated by someone in this thread like a "vice-grip", I don't consider 22k miles for an 07 enough miles to have a weak parking brake.

Reckon I oughta crawl under and start playing with it, I imagine I could adjust it but not sure, Dealer did it last time, not sure what they did but it was a little better at best. I'm not positive but I think the park/brake cable under tension causes the disc brake pad itself to actually screw out based on it's design to engage with the rotor....now I'm curious and will crawl under my jeep tonight.

 

hmmm....well that helps to know because we all have the same parts, so it has to be an adjustment issue, I bet I can get mine tighter, I'll report back this evening.

 

i would love to know a do it yourself fix... i prefer to do my own work anyways... that way i know it was done right!

i was thinking a placing some type of rough material on the inside of the rotor... perhaps a heavy grit sandpaper with industrial adhesive
i dont know if it would work or not... i think the main issue is that when i pull the brake it does not press up against the inside of the rotor with enough pressure... so if I somehow decrease the interior diameter of the rotor... i dont know, i am just speculating.

 

Yeah I don't know if the heavy-grit sp would ideal really, just because I think the ebrake uses the actual existing brake pads and double sides of the rotor. On my Camaro it actually screwed out the piston which put pressure on both sides of the rotor with the main pads, that's pretty much the standard rear brake design across the board I thought. I didn't get under the Jeep last night cuz I watched this lame scarey movie called Strangers...what a waste of my time...but then I played Farcry2 (bought it yesterday) wow what a fun game...I promise I'll get under the Jeep tonight and start wrenching till my ebrake works then post up.

 

the way the ebrake is set up.. you pull the caliper, and then the caliper support and the rotor comes off (4 bolts per wheel) there are actually two more pads underneath that are pushed outward and against the inside of the rotor as the park brake.

 

oh and to add in... of course the dealer checked my pads when they pulled my wheel off and ask "do you want us to replace them?"

i asked how much (was having a bad day and needed a good laugh)

"they said it will take 3 hours and be 210 bucks for the rear pads."

muahhahahahahahaha

I pulled both rear wheels, caliper, pads, rotors, cleaned inside the rotor and brake area and reinstalled everything in less than 30 minutes. the pads are 40 bucks for the "no squeal" at your local auto parts store.

i swear... i need to get out the legal business and open my own racketeering auto repair shop.

 

I have the same issue, I have to set the E Brake first then put it in park. If I don't, when I get back in and Im parked on even the slightest incline and I go to put it in drive, I feel like Im going to snap the transmission cable off, its so hard to put it back in drive. If its resting on the E Brake this doesn't happen. My E Brake was tightened once already under warranty.

 

Ahaaaaaa....hmmm...thanks for posting the schematic and write-up, but wow the schematic you posted sure looks like it has HUGE brake shoes ...like old school drum brakes but iffin you say it goes on our rigs I reckon I'm not one to disagree, they must be awfully small and there is no way 22k miles on my 07 Rubi requires new ebrake shoes.

Think I'm just going to let them either re-adjust them or replace them and make it right, it's the second time for this and they'll make it right. For example when my front D44 was leaking, they replaced the seals twice and 3rd time replaced the entire axle, new gears, locker, the works. No more leaks though .

 

Park brake is the same design as my Dodge Ram 3500 CTD....with the park brake pads underneath the rotor.

Our JK park brake sucks as well....6 speed and I always place in gear when parking......I learned how bad the park brake was when I was hooking on my utility trailer to take a few things to the dump.....I left the Jeep running in neutral and cranked the brake hard.....and as I was stepping out....the jeep rolled back and WHACK!!!!!

I was lucky....the hitch ball on the jeep hit the trailer hitch and did not leave a mark on the Jeep......if I was positioned just a little more one way or the other or higher.....I would have a big hole/dent in the stock rear bumper!!!!

I took it in to the dealer and got the comment....."Could not replicate issue...park brake tension is normal". I told them to try it on an incline of some sorts.


Then 2 weekends ago I was out 4 wheeling with my son in some step terrain and I parked it to take a few photos of my little guy and the jeep....when....the jeep decided to roll back about 5 ft and come to a halt on a rock. If the rock was not there.....it would have rolled another 150ft down a 120% slope to it's death!!!. So, I phoned the dealer after this and they said when we come in for the Freedom Top leak over the dash.....they will adjust the brake for me!