Time to do the radiator
#21
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I was also planning on using the AirLift to test if I was air tight before I dumped in coolant. Maybe I'm missing something here? Lol Saturday will be an adventure and I'll be sure to post about it.
At least if I break something it's on me. I can't stand when the dealer or a shop breaks something on me.
At least if I break something it's on me. I can't stand when the dealer or a shop breaks something on me.
#23
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The way I read that is what I was referring to in post #17 above. If you flush the system, you will be left with 100% (or as close to 100% as you can get) distilled water left in the heater core, heater inlet and return lines, and the block. That should be about 1-1.5 gallons of water already in there. if you then poured in 50/50, you'd end up too diluted. Outside of complete tear down of your heater core (which isn't going to happen), you're not gonna be able to purge 100% of fluid from the system. That doesn't just come out when you drain it. Some is just naturally trapped in the heater core lines, heater core, and a little in the block.
If you DON'T flush the system, just drain, replace radiator and lines, install new radiator.....then what is left in the system is still 50/50, and you should add 50/50 as you refill it back up.
I would flush the system first......getting all old coolant out since you're going through all the preventative maintenance anyhow.
Make sense?
********No clue if the AirLift helps get any of that out of the heater core, but I would have a hard time seeing that.
If you DON'T flush the system, just drain, replace radiator and lines, install new radiator.....then what is left in the system is still 50/50, and you should add 50/50 as you refill it back up.
I would flush the system first......getting all old coolant out since you're going through all the preventative maintenance anyhow.
Make sense?
********No clue if the AirLift helps get any of that out of the heater core, but I would have a hard time seeing that.
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Got it. This makes sense. I will def play with the AirLift first and as long as I'm close to a 50/50 60/40 ratio I should be good to go.
I've heard people in areas of cold weather even doing a 30/70 ratio. Not sure if it's correct but I will post back what I find out.
I will have access to AllData in about 2 hours and will take a screen shot of what that says. I would trust was AllData says.
I've heard people in areas of cold weather even doing a 30/70 ratio. Not sure if it's correct but I will post back what I find out.
I will have access to AllData in about 2 hours and will take a screen shot of what that says. I would trust was AllData says.
#26
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update the job is complete. It took about 4 hours of taking my time. The AC connection was a real pain to line back up. I have the aftermarket Mopar Trans cooler (2008) and getting that plus the AC plus the radiator lined up by myself was terrible. I would highly recommend a new mopar radiator. It comes with the rubber bushings and cap. I also got the mopar hoses and they come with the constant pressure hose clamps. Mixing of the coolant and distilled water was easy and the Airlift is EPIC!. No bubbles that I can tell in my radiator. I never even had to burp it. Just needed to add a little more in the overfill tank the next day. Check this one off the list and hopefully with the purchase of the Mopar over the cheaper models I will get another 10 years of use.
#27
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4 hours, sounds about how long it took me as well and same experience getting those lines lined back up. For burping, I jacked up the passenger's side so the radiator cap was the highest point, and then just kept squeezing the upper rad hose while running with the heater on. Air always travels to the highest point, unless it's trapped. Although you didn't burb it, air should eventually make it's way out, so keep checking and refilling as needed but I'ld recommend raising that passenger's side front and burbing since it's pretty simple to do if you have a floor jack, just put the floor jack under the axle on the passenger's side.
Do you happen to have the Mopar part numbers for the hoses? I'm sure I will eventually need to go look those up when I need to replace them.
Do you happen to have the Mopar part numbers for the hoses? I'm sure I will eventually need to go look those up when I need to replace them.
Last edited by Rednroll; 06-11-2018 at 04:49 AM.
#28
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update the job is complete. It took about 4 hours of taking my time. The AC connection was a real pain to line back up. I have the aftermarket Mopar Trans cooler (2008) and getting that plus the AC plus the radiator lined up by myself was terrible. I would highly recommend a new mopar radiator. It comes with the rubber bushings and cap. I also got the mopar hoses and they come with the constant pressure hose clamps. Mixing of the coolant and distilled water was easy and the Airlift is EPIC!. No bubbles that I can tell in my radiator. I never even had to burp it. Just needed to add a little more in the overfill tank the next day. Check this one off the list and hopefully with the purchase of the Mopar over the cheaper models I will get another 10 years of use.
#29
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Between maintenance and mods, that list just never ends. My wife keeps asking me, "When are you ever going to be done working on your U8Jeep?" Then it's usually followed by, "It's old...just go buy a new one." I'm like, it's old but still runs great, it's in great condition, and most of all, I still really like it. Even if I was to buy new, she just wouldn't be able to understand, in that if I'm not busy fixing something, I'ld be spending time modding something instead, and by the time the modding is done, then the maintenance starts to roll back around. It's a never ending cycle, but how do you explain that to a spouse who just doesn't get it?
I have even done by best to focus my mods around needed maintenance.
Shocks need replaced? Time for the lift. Brakes needed, time for BBK. Due for new tires? Time to go big. Front bumper creased? Time for winch mountable steely. Rear bumper scratched up? Time for a rear steely. Need a new tie-rod end? HD tie rod and drag link. U-joints creaking? Now, you know why I'm looking at a replacement drive shaft.
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I have even done by best to focus my mods around needed maintenance.
Shocks need replaced? Time for the lift. Brakes needed, time for BBK. Due for new tires? Time to go big. Front bumper creased? Time for winch mountable steely. Rear bumper scratched up? Time for a rear steely. Need a new tie-rod end? HD tie rod and drag link. U-joints creaking? Now, you know why I'm looking at a replacement drive shaft.
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Last edited by Rednroll; 06-11-2018 at 07:03 AM.
#30
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4 hours, sounds about how long it took me as well and same experience getting those lines lined back up. For burping, I jacked up the passenger's side so the radiator cap was the highest point, and then just kept squeezing the upper rad hose while running with the heater on. Air always travels to the highest point, unless it's trapped. Although you didn't burb it, air should eventually make it's way out, so keep checking and refilling as needed but I'ld recommend raising that passenger's side front and burbing since it's pretty simple to do if you have a floor jack, just put the floor jack under the axle on the passenger's side.
Do you happen to have the Mopar part numbers for the hoses? I'm sure I will eventually need to go look those up when I need to replace them.
Do you happen to have the Mopar part numbers for the hoses? I'm sure I will eventually need to go look those up when I need to replace them.
Upper hose is -55057204AB Lower Hose is -55057203AC Radiator is -68143886AA Rock auto has the best prices that I could find.