I wouldn't mind doing this to my jeep in the distant future.

 

That brute is a beast of a vehicle

 

Yes, definitely...although I am VERY sensitive to rattles/squeaks so I planned on using some sort of nice carpeting....maybe shag...jk. Lol.
Is that yours? (Have a write-up?)

 

Hey Mark D,

I've been lurking on this thread for some time whilst my JKU has been in the shop having a few things done. I was waiting to post until I got it back, but I couldn't resist chiming in on the whole Exp vs. RC etc. Just for the record, I wanted to say that initial post you did on the definition of an Expedition rig was freaking awesome. The amount of time and detail you put into it was amazing and for me greatly appreciated.

As for all the debate (friendlier term) that ensued, well that's all fine too. While I totally agree with your well defined encyclopedic definition of of an Expedition Rig and with some of the other discussions about what a Rock Crawler is, I guess my overall point of view about all that debate, beyond the practical applications of what the 'perfect' model of one or the other is, who cares right? Which you pretty much pointed out yourself. Everyone should build what they wanna build! That's the whole point of a Jeep buildup. I might only be saying that because that's what I just did. Ha. Anyway, then we can all go out there and if we run out of gas because we went expeditioning in our rock crawlers, or we break an axle because we went rock crawling in our expeditioners, well so be it. We made our Jeep beds and by God we will sleep in them...as long as it's out in the middle of nowhere!

I started out building an expedition rig, and it's been a long build on my 2007 JKU, but then I got bit a little bit by the big tire and lift bug when I watched a JKU with 37's cross the deepest part of a trench perpendicularly on a cross axle obstacle course at OX12 like it was traversing a pothole in Manhattan. I admit it. I was insanely envious. Sure I had the RTT and the AEV front bumper, but what if, God forbid, I had somehow gotten stuck in that treacherous training course trench! That would be impossible because there were 1000 Jeeps there, but no matter! I was hooked and now I have wholesale sold out the expedition template by going to an AEV 4.5 with Nitto 37's (closer to 38') and I am absolutely beside myself with excitement to pick it up next week. EVERYTHING else on my JKU is about expedition, but I went rocky on the drivetrain. Threw in a Rubicrawler as well. I guess I'm mostly interested in domestic expeditions, but if I encounter an obstacle or something technical, I wanted to have a little extra overkill to take it on. Will I regret it? HA! Probably. But I guess I wanted to go big and reduce rather than wish I had gone bigger to start with. That being said, I have mad respect for expeditioners running 33's or 35's. In stock form my Rubi was formidable itself. I'm already paranoid about breaking stuff, but I gusseted my front D44 (Rubicon), upgraded the front brakes and did everything else right too so I think it's going to be ok. As for mileage etc, well an engine swap is down the road so I'll cross that bridge later.

So I just wanted to say thanks again for your post which had a ton of advice I'll be taking and for everyone who is so worried about what to label your rig, I say JUST BUILD IT.

Anybody that wants to know what an expedition rig can, should or dream to be, should attend the Overland Expo. I took so many amazing classes there last year and every single one of them was incredibly useful, and the trucks in attendance are mind blowing.

Would love to take a trip with you some time Mark!

Oh and just so everyone knows, I've yet to break in my expedition gear since getting it all so you should probably ignore everything I said. I'll be back for destination suggestions soon!

Picts in two weeks or less.

 

I just picked up a post ww2 bantam trailer...I think it's a civilian model because it has a stock tailgate and ball hitch. You all won't believe this, but I only paid $450 for it. It's got some rust and needs paint, but is rock solid. I'll post some pics soon.

Any recommendations for Gerry can mounts, spare tire mounts, or propane tank mounts? I'm really looking forward to building it up this spring/summer...with my limited skills, $$, and intelligence.

 

Any advice on rear lights for my gobi rack? I am looking for something small that won't trip me when I climb up there.

 

I went with Hella 500s infront and a hella 550 in the rear. I still wanted access to the rear. I also didnt want to ad any more wind resistance than I already have. I have to say the gobi rack with awning, hi lift, rotpax, ladder and fog lights there isn't much wind noise. I never take the top off though.

 

Bad Ass!

 

I used to store stuff in boxes. This time, I decided on drawers, which allow direct access to what's on the bottom, especially to what's "buried" deeper, near the back seat.
At first, I thought of making wood drawers, but wood would have been much thicker and occupy precious space. Thinner & lighter Aluminium seemed to be better.



There's 1 deep drawer and 2 more shallow ones, which I ordered along with their lockers and heavy duty telescopic rails.
The frame is made of 'L' shaped Aluminium, cut to size and riveted together.
For the top, I used marine-grade plywood, finished with 3 layers of durable yacht varnish (lightly sanded after each layer has dried).

The drawers contain tools, pneumatic impact wrench & cutting disc, shackles, small stuff like deflators, etc'.
The fridge, water, Maxpedition bags with medical & survival stuff, portable ARB compressor etc', are tied on top.

I intend to add modular tie down Aluminium rails (along the sides, near the top), for tying down whatever is put on top. (Google for - uscargocontrol.com or similar, " 24'' Aluminum Logistic Tie Down Track", Part: AT24AL". There're other sources.)

I, too, don't like rattling. The heavy duty drawer rails are silent even during trail sprints.
The tools are padded with some ~0.4" foam, cut from a thin camping mattress. It's all absolutely silent.

The drawer box is strapped to the tie downs on the floor.
The straps will be replaced with DeStaco (or similar) latches, rated to hold at least x2 the loaded weight. The latches will be mounted on the sides of the drawer box, so the top stays flat.

There's just enough space to stick a folding chair on either side. There's also a bit of space between the box and the subwoofer, so it's not blocked.

If you want a shelf but no drawers, there's a good one by onboardair.com – 'JK rear interior storage rack', part # JK-R1 – which you can buy, or make something similar. It's rated for 300 lbs, which is impressive.

 

I just bought these from Blitspro. Its model 6lz. I have only had it on for a month but they seem to be decent quality and put out enough light for $30.











I also installed 7 of them across the face of a Rugged Ridge windshield light bar for flooding everything up close with light.