KevinMac's Semi-Budget Build...Project Deathstar
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 302
Likes: 2
From: Mile High
Just wanted to comment on your build thread, MANY great "little" things in here!
I just added a 2014 JKURX to my garage, so I like the rear seat headrest bungie cord idea! I also MAY do the ATC mod later, so kinda-sorta a bookmark.
I did something similar a couple of years ago. I found that .45 CCI Blazer (the cheap aluminum cased stuff, which can't be reloaded) matches the factory finish of the Moab rims perfectly! No case-mod needed, the .45 fits over the valve stem just right, and a drop or two of Black Silicon RTV if left to cure for a couple of days holds as good as the epoxy.
The tire guys comment on them everytime I get my tires rotated. So far, they haven't grown legs yet!
Once again, great build thread!
I just added a 2014 JKURX to my garage, so I like the rear seat headrest bungie cord idea! I also MAY do the ATC mod later, so kinda-sorta a bookmark.
I almost forgot...which is surprising as I am actually quite proud of these! 
I own many firearms, one of which is a Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan in .44 Magnum. The brass for these things are huge. I don't reload but I do save the brass as I plan to start reloading some day. To personalize a bit, I took some spent casings and ground down the height about 1/4". Then I put a bit of epoxy in the casing and inserted the stock valve stem covers into them. I let them set over night so the epoxy could cure. A quick polish of the brass with steel wool and then a few coats of the same paint I used on the wheels....WAHLAH...custom .44Mag Valve Stem Covers! 
I own many firearms, one of which is a Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan in .44 Magnum. The brass for these things are huge. I don't reload but I do save the brass as I plan to start reloading some day. To personalize a bit, I took some spent casings and ground down the height about 1/4". Then I put a bit of epoxy in the casing and inserted the stock valve stem covers into them. I let them set over night so the epoxy could cure. A quick polish of the brass with steel wool and then a few coats of the same paint I used on the wheels....WAHLAH...custom .44Mag Valve Stem Covers! 
The tire guys comment on them everytime I get my tires rotated. So far, they haven't grown legs yet!
Once again, great build thread!
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Fortin Remote Start
Nice! Those aluminum casings match the stock wheels really well! 
Now that the ATC is up and running, I turned to the next comfort I miss from other vehicles I've had, remote start! Luckily, there has been a rash of threads on the boards lately regarding this topic. Everyone has been flocking to the Fortin unit which seems to be getting great reviews for the money. The thread that caught my eye is below:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...0-ebay-295330/
Basically, there were 2 shops selling this unit on Amazon and eBay. Depending who you ordered from, you may have to do a bit more than "plug and play", but barely.
If you bought from Car Alarm Depot, you will need to take the extra step of splicing the solid yellow wire on the 20 way connector to the solid yellow on the main harness. I soldered, I'm a perfectionist. I'm sure a splice connector would work just fine. The other point you need to be aware of is if you have a factory alarm. If you do, you need to take the extra step of grounding the purple/white striped wire for 1 second during the programming sequence. Once again, not a show stopper, just be aware of it. There are a lot of extra unused wires to adapt this unit to all makes and models. I just cut off all the dead wires to reduce the confusion and clutter.
For the money, a great upgrade...thumbs up! Here is the unit, programming complete and the Jeep running, just before I tucked it up under the dash.
- Cost:
* Fortin Remote Start - $100
Now that the ATC is up and running, I turned to the next comfort I miss from other vehicles I've had, remote start! Luckily, there has been a rash of threads on the boards lately regarding this topic. Everyone has been flocking to the Fortin unit which seems to be getting great reviews for the money. The thread that caught my eye is below:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...0-ebay-295330/
Basically, there were 2 shops selling this unit on Amazon and eBay. Depending who you ordered from, you may have to do a bit more than "plug and play", but barely.
If you bought from Car Alarm Depot, you will need to take the extra step of splicing the solid yellow wire on the 20 way connector to the solid yellow on the main harness. I soldered, I'm a perfectionist. I'm sure a splice connector would work just fine. The other point you need to be aware of is if you have a factory alarm. If you do, you need to take the extra step of grounding the purple/white striped wire for 1 second during the programming sequence. Once again, not a show stopper, just be aware of it. There are a lot of extra unused wires to adapt this unit to all makes and models. I just cut off all the dead wires to reduce the confusion and clutter.
For the money, a great upgrade...thumbs up!
Here is the unit, programming complete and the Jeep running, just before I tucked it up under the dash.
- Cost:
* Fortin Remote Start - $100
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Toasted Buns!
The remote start is in and working. The ATC is in and working. Now, it's warm butt time...let there be heated seats!
I did quite a bit of reading before deciding what system to go with. I really wanted to retrofit a factory setup into my rig. Keeping the stock appearance is something I've tried to do throughout. It didn't seem too difficult, add some wiring, a new set of console switches, an HSM (heated seat module) and the heating elements themselves. Then it would require a trip to the dealer to flash the computer to turn it all on. Adding the costs all up...it was cost prohibitive.
A great thread on the OEM solution can be read here: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...-seats-163012/
My next investigation was the aftermarket Check Corp setup that Quadratec is selling. There seemed to be a good bit of confusion if it was a 3 or 4 element setup.
There also seems to be a bit of discussion over how to address the occupant sensor in the passenger seat. The OEM solution accommodates that sensor as does the Mopar aftermarket kits. Since I didn't want to reinvent the wheel, I kept searching.
Then I ran across this thread on another forum. A few of the users had come across an inexpensive carbon fiber setup on Amazon and gave it great reviews!
It is a 4 element setup, has small switches that integrate nicely into the stock dash switches and pulls only 12amps with both seats set to "high".
Seat Heaters? - Page 2 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
Special props to Baddandy for his work on adding the switches to the stock dash locations. His install turned out great and was relatively easy, if you are patient. Here is a quick photo of how mine turned out, they almost look OEM:
On to the installation of the seat elements, I found it easier to remove the seat and bring it into the warm house. I did the drivers side first and it took me about 2 hours since I had no idea what I was doing. I also wanted to get the hang of installing the elements without dealing with the occupant sensor. The passenger side took me about 45 minutes as I'd gotten a good bit more proficient.
I have 2 photos below, the first is with the seat cover removed and the sensor exposed. The 2nd is with the heating element installed and the sensor relocated. I used the instructions from the Mopar installation kit to relocate the sensor since the instructions that came with my kit did not account for it. Also note, the 2013+ seats use velcro in areas to attach the cover to the pad. I bought a pack of heavy duty velcro at Home Depot and that seems to have done the trick. You can see strips I cut and stuck to the element running down the center of the pad. Lastly, instead of installing new hog rings, I used zip ties. I don't have hog ring pliers and zip ties seemed like they'd fit the bill.
The Mopar instructions can be found here: http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/K6861243.pdf
The sensor relocation is shown in steps 22-29. Since I didn't have then sided tape they reference, I used a couple of dabs from my hot glue gun. It seemed to work well.
I have the drivers seat all bolted back in and ready to go. But, I have the console out while I run the USB wire from my radio to the inside of the arm rest so I'm a day or 2 away from putting the passenger seat back in. Once installed, I just need to run the 16ga positive up to the fuse box and I am good to go! Just in case you are wondering, I did 'hotwire' the drivers seat to the cigarette lighter. It reached full heat in about 2 minutes and was quite warm so I'm happy with the product for the price!
-Costs:
* Carbon Fiber Heated Seat Kit - $50!!!
* Velcro - $3
I did quite a bit of reading before deciding what system to go with. I really wanted to retrofit a factory setup into my rig. Keeping the stock appearance is something I've tried to do throughout. It didn't seem too difficult, add some wiring, a new set of console switches, an HSM (heated seat module) and the heating elements themselves. Then it would require a trip to the dealer to flash the computer to turn it all on. Adding the costs all up...it was cost prohibitive.
A great thread on the OEM solution can be read here: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...-seats-163012/
My next investigation was the aftermarket Check Corp setup that Quadratec is selling. There seemed to be a good bit of confusion if it was a 3 or 4 element setup.
There also seems to be a bit of discussion over how to address the occupant sensor in the passenger seat. The OEM solution accommodates that sensor as does the Mopar aftermarket kits. Since I didn't want to reinvent the wheel, I kept searching.Then I ran across this thread on another forum. A few of the users had come across an inexpensive carbon fiber setup on Amazon and gave it great reviews!
It is a 4 element setup, has small switches that integrate nicely into the stock dash switches and pulls only 12amps with both seats set to "high".Seat Heaters? - Page 2 - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
Special props to Baddandy for his work on adding the switches to the stock dash locations. His install turned out great and was relatively easy, if you are patient.
Here is a quick photo of how mine turned out, they almost look OEM:On to the installation of the seat elements, I found it easier to remove the seat and bring it into the warm house. I did the drivers side first and it took me about 2 hours since I had no idea what I was doing. I also wanted to get the hang of installing the elements without dealing with the occupant sensor. The passenger side took me about 45 minutes as I'd gotten a good bit more proficient.
I have 2 photos below, the first is with the seat cover removed and the sensor exposed. The 2nd is with the heating element installed and the sensor relocated. I used the instructions from the Mopar installation kit to relocate the sensor since the instructions that came with my kit did not account for it. Also note, the 2013+ seats use velcro in areas to attach the cover to the pad. I bought a pack of heavy duty velcro at Home Depot and that seems to have done the trick. You can see strips I cut and stuck to the element running down the center of the pad. Lastly, instead of installing new hog rings, I used zip ties. I don't have hog ring pliers and zip ties seemed like they'd fit the bill.
The Mopar instructions can be found here: http://starparts.chrysler.com/info/default/K6861243.pdf
The sensor relocation is shown in steps 22-29. Since I didn't have then sided tape they reference, I used a couple of dabs from my hot glue gun. It seemed to work well.
I have the drivers seat all bolted back in and ready to go. But, I have the console out while I run the USB wire from my radio to the inside of the arm rest so I'm a day or 2 away from putting the passenger seat back in. Once installed, I just need to run the 16ga positive up to the fuse box and I am good to go!
Just in case you are wondering, I did 'hotwire' the drivers seat to the cigarette lighter. It reached full heat in about 2 minutes and was quite warm so I'm happy with the product for the price! -Costs:
* Carbon Fiber Heated Seat Kit - $50!!!
* Velcro - $3
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Glock glock glock...
A quick update on the new Tuffy conceal drawer I installed. I stole this great idea from DaylonC to make a "holder" for my pistol and magazine when stowed. I have a Glock 26 and fit real well. Kudos to DaylonC for the idea!
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...n-safe-278499/
For materials I used some leftover rigid insulation I had, my trusty hot glue gun and some velvet I got from the craft store.
- Costs:
* Rigid insulation - Freebie!
* Velvet - $6
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...n-safe-278499/
For materials I used some leftover rigid insulation I had, my trusty hot glue gun and some velvet I got from the craft store.
- Costs:
* Rigid insulation - Freebie!
* Velvet - $6
JK Super Freak
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 7
From: Mentor, OH
A quick update on the new Tuffy conceal drawer I installed. I stole this great idea from DaylonC to make a "holder" for my pistol and magazine when stowed. I have a Glock 26 and fit real well. Kudos to DaylonC for the idea!
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...n-safe-278499/
For materials I used some leftover rigid insulation I had, my trusty hot glue gun and some velvet I got from the craft store.
- Costs:
* Rigid insulation - Freebie!
* Velvet - $6
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...n-safe-278499/
For materials I used some leftover rigid insulation I had, my trusty hot glue gun and some velvet I got from the craft store.
- Costs:
* Rigid insulation - Freebie!
* Velvet - $6
First, the best place to store your gun, is in its holster on your hip.
Barring being able to do that, the LAST thing you want to do is handle it more than necessary. Keep the magazine seated, keep a round in the chamber, keep the slide forward. Treat it as if it were loaded, because it IS LOADED.
http://youtu.be/am-Qdx6vky0 Unless you live in one of the last remaining states that thinks you should just dial 911 while being beaten to death.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Breath of fresh air
A bit of house keeping!
1st off, since I have a Sport S model, my toy did not come with cabin filters. However, since the Sport, Sahara and Rubi all share the same HVAC system, I added them! The filters were like $36 from the dealer so I went ahead and ordered the Wix replacement filters online. When I received them, they actually had the Mopar part number on them!
The install took 5 minutes, pull the glove box, lift the (2) latched doors and install the filters with the directional arrow pointing down. Close the doors and reinstall glove box...done!
================================================== ========================
Next up, closing out the remote USB port install from the new 730n head unit. I needed a way to mount the USB port to the console so that it was OEM-like. I didn't want a loose cable laying around to plug into, I want to keep the install as clean as possible. So, I picked up this little beauty!
Drill 2 holes into the console and dremel a slot so the plug is exposed from inside the arm rest. Note, I did this when I removed the seats/console to install the heated seats. That made access real easy. Here is a quick shot prior to reinstalling the latch plate.
================================================== ========================
With that buttoned up, I move on to the tuning of my CB antenna. In previous posts I had talked about trying to find someone with a meter so I didn't have to buy one. Well, I gave up and bit the bullet. Here is the kicker, after plugging in and the calibrating the meter, I measured my SWR at 1.2 without any adjustment.
Not believing it, I tried it about 3 more times with similar results. From everything I've read, that is pretty good so I decided not to mess with it and left it alone. Done!
================================================== ========================
Finally, the latch plate itself. Once again, I was not able to get a Sport with an inverter as that is a Sahara/Rubi option. What I could do though is the next best thing...make my own!
I bought my own inverter outlet online, I went with p/n 56046933AA.
Once I got that, I lined it up to my stock latch plate and traced the outline of the outlet. Drilled (4) holes...one in each corner. Then, connected the dots with the Dremel. Ta-da...instant inverter outlet!
Here is the installed product...it looks factory!
One other thing I should mention is that I used a 400w inverter I had laying around and made my own harness for it. The connector for the inverter plug is available from Mopar and is p/n 68087924AA. With that, it is simple to make your own harness to route to an existing inverter you may have (or purchase). I have the inverter laying under the passenger seat for now. I will mount it a bit more securely later this spring, I just haven't decided where or how yet.
================================================== ========================
- Costs:
* Flush Mount USB Adapter - $3
* Wix Cabin Filter - $20
* Power Inverter Outlet - $16
* Inverter Connector - $32
* SWR Meter - $17
1st off, since I have a Sport S model, my toy did not come with cabin filters. However, since the Sport, Sahara and Rubi all share the same HVAC system, I added them! The filters were like $36 from the dealer so I went ahead and ordered the Wix replacement filters online. When I received them, they actually had the Mopar part number on them!
The install took 5 minutes, pull the glove box, lift the (2) latched doors and install the filters with the directional arrow pointing down. Close the doors and reinstall glove box...done! 
================================================== ========================
Next up, closing out the remote USB port install from the new 730n head unit. I needed a way to mount the USB port to the console so that it was OEM-like. I didn't want a loose cable laying around to plug into, I want to keep the install as clean as possible. So, I picked up this little beauty!
Drill 2 holes into the console and dremel a slot so the plug is exposed from inside the arm rest. Note, I did this when I removed the seats/console to install the heated seats. That made access real easy. Here is a quick shot prior to reinstalling the latch plate.
================================================== ========================
With that buttoned up, I move on to the tuning of my CB antenna. In previous posts I had talked about trying to find someone with a meter so I didn't have to buy one. Well, I gave up and bit the bullet. Here is the kicker, after plugging in and the calibrating the meter, I measured my SWR at 1.2 without any adjustment.
Not believing it, I tried it about 3 more times with similar results. From everything I've read, that is pretty good so I decided not to mess with it and left it alone. Done! ================================================== ========================
Finally, the latch plate itself. Once again, I was not able to get a Sport with an inverter as that is a Sahara/Rubi option. What I could do though is the next best thing...make my own!
I bought my own inverter outlet online, I went with p/n 56046933AA.
Once I got that, I lined it up to my stock latch plate and traced the outline of the outlet. Drilled (4) holes...one in each corner. Then, connected the dots with the Dremel. Ta-da...instant inverter outlet!
Here is the installed product...it looks factory!
One other thing I should mention is that I used a 400w inverter I had laying around and made my own harness for it. The connector for the inverter plug is available from Mopar and is p/n 68087924AA. With that, it is simple to make your own harness to route to an existing inverter you may have (or purchase). I have the inverter laying under the passenger seat for now. I will mount it a bit more securely later this spring, I just haven't decided where or how yet.
================================================== ========================
- Costs:
* Flush Mount USB Adapter - $3
* Wix Cabin Filter - $20
* Power Inverter Outlet - $16
* Inverter Connector - $32
* SWR Meter - $17