Y, I cut that crash bar out too when installing my PSC BFH bumper. I don't feel cutting the crash bar out was a big deal as far as safety.....not near like cutting the frame horns (which I have done as well).

Are you following some DIY writeup? Seems most would use a welded bung like the Barnes 4x4 DIY arms rather than drilling and tapping no?

 

Negative, I'm making it up as I go. The RK arms are 2" so I know these will fit. I bought 316 stainless specifically so I don't have to paint or plate or powdercoat the arms and never worry about rust. If I welded in bungs they would have to be coated and that would defeat the purpose. This way the joints thread right into the arms, which I can pack with anti seize, and I'm good to go. I had them cut to length to keep about 2-3" of thread engagement on each end which has to be sufficient, even with the stainless. It also afforded me the opportunity to do each arm with a right and left hand threaded joint so I can install the arms and turnbuckle them to adjust length. There will be wrench flats milled on each to turn the bars and to help tighten the jam nuts.

 

Ah, that makes a lot of sense given your location.

 

I'll get some photos up of the current arms. The Jeep sees everything NJ can throw at it and it shows. On top of that, I have plenty of hardware issues. I had a broken gas tank skid bolt, and I've been soaking the last control arm bolt in PB for a few weeks because I put a scary amount of torque on it and the bolt is still seized inside the control arm joint. I really don't want to have to deal with cutting up a 9/16, grade 8 bolt in place. I have all new hardware going in and I'm taking every corrosion control measure I can think of to get me through another decade.

 

Arms are done! I only snapped this quick shot after dropping them off in the garage, but you get the idea.

 

Half disrobed..........sexy . Those are going to look great when installed.

 

I'm more worried about it taking a hit from a rock than losing any structure without it. There are quite a few reputable bumpers that require it to be trimmed or removed to fit winch plates or other mounts anyways.

I suppose it couldn't hurt to weld a new support between the frame horns up higher though.

 

Well the winter weather has brought terrible mileage for my Chev V8 in the Jeep. Went from 21mpg in town to about 10. Blame it on the -28C cold air screwing up the predicted air volumes. Looked at the Mass Air Flow enable and turned out the engine was using calculated Volumetric Efficiency (VE) rather than MAF at RPM's under 4000. Turned them down for MAF to work over 1100RPM. What a difference, not in performance, but driveability and I did some work on Decel Fuel Cutoff so now it needs more brakes to stop than engine braking from before which will also boost mileage. More scanning and tuning to come when spring is here. But a Chev Silverado easily gets 13L/100km (18mpg/us) in town so I knew something was wrong
This is what I did today but to the naked eye it is invisible and hopefully the wallet feels it!!

 

Popped the rear driver axle shaft out to get a better angle on the stuck control arm bolt. Now that everything is out of the way and I can bash it mercilessly with a lump hammer... it's still not moving. I'm soaking it in PB and I'm going to whack at it some more, if it doesn't go I'll break out the press tools.

 

Icrash I would suggest new garbage bags be placed over the axle housing prior to the king size beating you are giving it. Also get the axle covered as well. Good insurance for dirt migration and issues later. You probably thought of that anyway but just saying. Try an air hammer with a 1/2" flat end punch in it from your local tool rental.