Thanks for the writeup

 

Advanced Auto has it. Google National Ball Bearing 614093. It was about $40.

I will be tackling this project Thursday.

 

I started this project yesterday. Is it ironic that it's supposed to snow tomorrow?

Anyway, Thanks BadPumpkin for the writeup. It has been most useful so far. The only real issues I have had so far are the really dumb things jamming me up. To get the Y-pipe off the headers I had to use a 9/16 crowsfoot to jam the nut. I ended up breaking one bolt. After that, I took one look at the Y-pipe to tail section and decided I wasn't even going to try... I cut the clap strap off. Once I got everything dropped it was dark so i decided to quit for the night.
I had the flywheel resurfaced and now just waiting on a new pilot bearing to show up because I got the wrong one. Turns out I needed the .5618 (National # SCE1295 $5.99 from AZ), not the 1.8161. Once I have that its reassembly time.
I think BP said it took him 10hours. I think it will take me far longer. I would highly recommend a helper. It will save you a lot of time and frustration.

 

Long time no see. Hope the project goes well tomorrow. M&G at valleyview sunday, 12 noon if you get it done.

 

LOL, the one in my '07 now has 106,000+ on it, and although it still feels pretty good, no slipping that I can tell, I'm starting to hear a very light squeak/squeal sound when I have the pedal pressed in. I'm sure it's the throw out bearing getting worn out, so I believe I'll be doing this job very soon, whether I want to or not.

 

Well it's all back together.
On first start I got DTC codes p0058 and p0305 and a nasty knock on the top rear of the engine. After a little freaking out and checking my sockets to make sure they were all accounted for, I tackled the HO2 problem first and found I had an exhaust leak at the y-pipe to tail section. A couple knocks and retightening of the new clamp seemed to have fixed it. After I cleared the codes and restarted it, the knock was gone and no miss-fire code. I am still not sure what that was all about, but I can't troubleshoot it if it's not exhibiting the problem. I will have to keep my eyes and ears on that one.

I replaced the stock with a Duralast OEM. The new one was identical to what I took out. Same MFG, stamps and everything. I took it out for a test drive a few min ago. It seems like the clutch is engaging ok. The manual suggested doing a hill test, which it seemed to be fine with good engagement and no slipping. The pedal feels very light thought. Im about to start the forum search on that part after this post.

Hopefully, I will be able to make the meet tomorrow. It will be nice to drive it after a week of watching it sit in the driveway.

 

The Cenertforce C;utch feels very different than the OE. Initially, it seemed to not grab (light) at first then it would bite quick. After a good break-in it is still different than the OE but nothing that you won't adjust to quickly. See you this afternoon.

 

Are the steps the same for a 2007 as they are for the 2010 you have?

 

I would think so. I am not aware of any transmission changes between model years with the 3.8.

 

Cool, I'm going to attempt it this weekend. Just got my Centerforce DF kit today. I'm sure it will be much easier with this write up. Thanks for taking the time and effort to write it.