Just finished installing these and one side does not work

The bottom row (purple, blue, green) works and the top (red, yellow, orange) doesn't

I swapped the switches and they both work on the passenger side, so both the switches are good
Then I swapped the 1 and 3 inputs, either side heats up just as long as it is on the 3 input, so all the pads and wiring for both sides work

So then I took the wiring harness that came with the membrane switch, chopped off the ends and put quick connectors on just the (yellow, red, orange) side
Still nothing

So I am assuming that the internal wiring in the black box that goes to the top row of wires leading to the switch are defective
Sound about right? Just trying to cover all my bases and make sure it's not user error or that I'm overlooking anything



BTW- dem bolts are a bitch

 

I just bought this kit for my 2012 Sport JK and I have a couple questions...

Some of you with the Unlimited didn't need to remove the front seats. I have the 2-door. Can I leave my front seats in for this install?

I also bought the factory switch assembly with the heated seat buttons. Assuming I can get the Jeep computer re-flashed, is there any way to wire this up to the factory switches?

 

you also need a new dash cluster and that would also drive several other computer changes not a simple or cost effective way to go. Just by the heavy duty switches.

 

part number for the rocker switches is SWP-EC4-2RNDM...I contacted Check corp also...my membrane switches were intermittent...since it was still under warranty they will send out a replacement set...but the rocker switches ...they wanted $70 plus shipping.....thats insane...this kit was expensive to begin w. and the crappy touch pad switches are not reliable.....

 

anyone know how to remove the lower panel on the front dash thing that has all the blanks in it on 2011 and 2012 JKU's. I think th ehill decent and traction control switches are in this cluster. I ordered a set of seat heaters with the round rocker switches form eBay, adn I want to put the round switches in the dash in those blank switch locations.

 

Get a plastic trim removal stick and it will just pop out. You could also use a butter knife or something but it will likely get hacked up that way.

 

Thanks for that. I ended up putting the first switch by the cup holder. It does not require taking apart the dash. Ill probably put the second switch there as well. It looks very factory to me. Ill post a pic later today. I took one with my phone last night. But I forgot the phone at home.

 

So , i did the passenger side install. It probably took 2 hours. I will be able to do the driver side faster since I know what I am doing now. The seat bolts were tight, but a standard ratchet with no bar took them off. Of course i am strong as a bear so that may have helped a tad. Also taking the seat back off the seat bottom is a genius way to do this. thanks to whom ever suggested that. I would not have probably thought of it myself.

So it is all installed on my passenger seat, but I have not connected the wires. Mine is not a mopar kit. It was an ebay kit with the 2 setting round rocker style switch. THe power coomes from either the black wire or the red wire, I am not sure because my set came with no instructions. Also what should I connect these black adn red wires to? I was thinking the auxiliary 12 volt outlet in the consol. How do you take the consol apart? i do not see any bolts holding it down. Does it snap together klike the center consol around the shift selector? IS black the hot in automotive and red ground??

Thanks for your tips. Ill put up pics adn a small write up of what I end up doing when the job is done.

 

Good information guys. I plan on installing mine early next year.

 

If you go with an aftermarket heater as I did, note the wiring is red wire to hot, and black wire to ground. Also use an accessory that turns off with the key off, not the always hot 12 volt in the arm rest. It could drain your battery if one gets left on. I have mine installed now, but i still have to correct the wiring in order for them to work. I did buy nylon tools for panel removal to make it easier to wire into the dash 12 volt outlet. I got mine tools from harbor freight for $4.99 in store on sale right now. A screw driver should work but could scratch the new plastic.