Just completed this instal using the OP' original instructions and the second poster's prints. The only variance is that I used zip ties instead of hog clamps. Both sides took about four hours. Nothing hard, just time consuming.

 

I had the dealership install the front seat heaters when I purchased my 2010 JK Unlimited Sport and was so satisfied with the results I decided to install them in the rear seats. I found the install thread DBB888 posted a while back (Rear Heated Seats Toasty Buns) and had an easy time with the install. In his thread he said something about a fuse position M9 for the "RR Heated Seat". While looking at the fuse box I noticed, in addition to this fuse position, there is a M8 for the "FT Heated Seat." Both positions are rated for 20A fuses which seem to be a reasonable rating for the intended purpose. Although the kit splices into the cigar lighter, I would like to utilize the M8/M9 fuse positions and not overload the "Power Outlet" circuit. I assume that these wires already exist somewhere in the wiring harness.?.?.

I am wondering if anyone else is as annal as I am and searched these curcuits/wires out? If so, where do they end up??? are they accessable to use for their intended purpose??? Or, does someone have a good harness schematic I can use to trace them out??? Any help would be appreciated!!!

Why didn't MoPar/Check Corp utilize these curcuits in the heater kits??? I don't understand????

 

i agree. If someone has this info, I am willing to rewire mine as well. I do not like the seats spliced into the dash accessory either. It seems to work fine, but my seats are a bit slow to heat. i would assume that has to do with lower available power.

 

It can be done but the wires are not in the current harness.

What you will have to do is run connection from the seats to the TIPM to the exact pin that supplies power from the fused connection.

This is all possible if you have wiring tools and the connector tips.

As a starting point look up the TIPM connector pin-outs on starparts connector website.

 

BUMP!

My membrane panel crapped out and would like to go with the rocker switch instead. Did you (has anybody) figure out the answers to these questions?

Waterproof? New location? What to do with the old location?

Thanks!


FYI: Part numbers... rocker switch is SWP-EC4-2-RNDM, craptastic membrane switch is 68033392AA.