Old Man Emu 2" Lift Installation Write-Up
Here is a guick question.
If the shocks act as "limiting straps" would you not have better flex with say the Teraflex BB?
It seems that OME has not addressed brakeline length and swaybar links. Does this mean that the shocks limit the amount of suspension travel?
The reason I am posing these questions is I am torn between the Currie long travel kit and OME.
Looks like travel is limited with the OME but you can run 35's where as the travel is extended with currie but you can only run 33's.
Any comment???
thanks to all in advance!!!!!
If the shocks act as "limiting straps" would you not have better flex with say the Teraflex BB?
It seems that OME has not addressed brakeline length and swaybar links. Does this mean that the shocks limit the amount of suspension travel?
The reason I am posing these questions is I am torn between the Currie long travel kit and OME.
Looks like travel is limited with the OME but you can run 35's where as the travel is extended with currie but you can only run 33's.
Any comment???
thanks to all in advance!!!!!
I'm assuming that you are asking about the Teraflex BB with longer shocks. The TF BB uses bump stop extensions. This reduces the amount that your suspension will compress. The OME kit does not. Assuming that both kits raise your JK the same amount (which they do not), the TF kit will allow larger tires. I'm not sure about droop, as I don't know the length of each shock. But for arguments sake, the shocks would have to be at least two inches longer (extended) to have equal flex to the OME kit. I purchased longer swaybar links for the back and moved the back links to the front. Especially If you have an electric sway bar disco, I'd recommend this change. And yes, an educated guess, is that the shocks limit the droop.
If I was running 35's, I'd have to mod the fenders for sure. My 33's are already rubbing too much.
Is it true that the Currie long arm is limited to 33's? That seems strange to me. My neophite opinion is that the Currie kits and OME kits are apples and oranges. From what I understand the Currie kits are better designed for driving fast through the dirt and desert. I don't know a thing about the long arm, but the Currie lifts that I've seen have dual rate springs. Great for covering ground fast, but not designed for crawling where flexing is important. I think the OME kit has VERY good flex, for what it is. And if crawling is what you want to do, then go with the larger tires.
my 2 cents
I've read recent grumblings from the XJ guys that OME has outsourced the production of leaf springs and quality is suffering. Are the coil springs still of high quality? Anybody heard anything?

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A quick question that hopefully some of you more mechanically inclined folks can help out with.
On Step 15 of the install write-up,
Are these really only supposed to be hand tightened?
Both front shocks are still very loose and can be wiggled back and forth and turned 360 easily. As these shocks do not have a second location to place a wrench (like the stock shocks), I can't seem to find a way of tightening them down any more. Holding with one hand and using a 'strap' wrench I picked up do not work, and I'd rather not try a metal oil filter wrench unless I can't come up with other options.
Am I overlooking something simple here?
Thanks
- Thanks for the heads up guys. As much time as I spent trying to tighten those up, I never noticed the top of the post for the second wrench.
Stupid little things like this are frustrating, but I'm having fun working on and learning about my jeep!!
On Step 15 of the install write-up,
Grasp the Old Man Emu front shock can firmly with one hand and then secure the mounting stud nut in place using a 16mm wrench.
Both front shocks are still very loose and can be wiggled back and forth and turned 360 easily. As these shocks do not have a second location to place a wrench (like the stock shocks), I can't seem to find a way of tightening them down any more. Holding with one hand and using a 'strap' wrench I picked up do not work, and I'd rather not try a metal oil filter wrench unless I can't come up with other options.
Am I overlooking something simple here?
Thanks
- Thanks for the heads up guys. As much time as I spent trying to tighten those up, I never noticed the top of the post for the second wrench.
Stupid little things like this are frustrating, but I'm having fun working on and learning about my jeep!!
Last edited by nthinuf; Apr 22, 2008 at 10:10 AM.
A quick question that hopefully some of you more mechanically inclined folks can help out with.
On Step 15 of the install write-up, Are these really only supposed to be hand tightened?
Both front shocks are still very loose and can be wiggled back and forth and turned 360 easily. As these shocks do not have a second location to place a wrench (like the stock shocks), I can't seem to find a way of tightening them down any more. Holding with one hand and using a 'strap' wrench I picked up do not work, and I'd rather not try a metal oil filter wrench unless I can't come up with other options.
Am I overlooking something simple here?
Thanks
On Step 15 of the install write-up, Are these really only supposed to be hand tightened?
Both front shocks are still very loose and can be wiggled back and forth and turned 360 easily. As these shocks do not have a second location to place a wrench (like the stock shocks), I can't seem to find a way of tightening them down any more. Holding with one hand and using a 'strap' wrench I picked up do not work, and I'd rather not try a metal oil filter wrench unless I can't come up with other options.
Am I overlooking something simple here?
Thanks
You can get a deep socket with a long extension and go at from the top through the engine compartment.
you can get a shock tool at most pep boys or auto stores.....
you can be patient and go in from the side under the wheel well with a thin wrench......
it will tighten up, do not overtighten or you will screww up the bushings.
I did mine today...pretty easy, but just a few things I noticed.
I loosed up a few more things than were suggested.
Mainly brake lines and sensor wires. NO way I was gonna get the new springs back in
without lowering the diffs more than these thing would allow.
Sensor wire holders:


And a brake line in front:

I also only took 2 of the 3 skid plate bolts out. Loosed up the 3rd real good, and just let it hang:

Also I think I'll go with some extended brake lines.....this is at full droop, limited by shock:

I'm waiting for the track bars Friday so I dont have it all together yet.
But it site up nice so far.
chuck
I loosed up a few more things than were suggested.
Mainly brake lines and sensor wires. NO way I was gonna get the new springs back in
without lowering the diffs more than these thing would allow.
Sensor wire holders:


And a brake line in front:

I also only took 2 of the 3 skid plate bolts out. Loosed up the 3rd real good, and just let it hang:

Also I think I'll go with some extended brake lines.....this is at full droop, limited by shock:

I'm waiting for the track bars Friday so I dont have it all together yet.
But it site up nice so far.
chuck





