Adjustable Control Arms Jam Nuts - Page 3

Adjustable Control Arms Jam Nuts

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  1. #21
    JK Junkie karls10jk's Avatar
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    Yep, it makes for quick inspections. It's something I should have done.....and may still do.
    2010 2dr with the usual goods

  2. #22
    JK Super Freak Chuck-The-Ripper's Avatar
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    Call my crazy but I get them as tight as I can with the joints centered and then put a couple tack welds on each jamnut/arm. When I go to readjust it takes about 5 seconds with a grinder and it's good to go.

  3. #23
    JK Freak PsychoCupcake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper View Post
    Call my crazy but I get them as tight as I can with the joints centered and then put a couple tack welds on each jamnut/arm. When I go to readjust it takes about 5 seconds with a grinder and it's good to go.
    Not crazy. In fact a lot of people do that from what I understand.
    2012 JK Rubicon - KERMITRON - Follow me on Instagram! @psychocupcake4x4

  4. #24
    JK Junkie kjeeper10's Avatar
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    Thought about that, at least the lowers. Locked in place use the uppers to adjust caster/pinion.
    37" Nitto RG's, RK 3.5 x-factor arms, PSC big bore, Steer Smarts HD YETI track bar, tie rod, drag link and Griffin, Artec TB bracket/truss, fox IPF 2.0 shocks, EVO Rock stars, Dana front DS, Savvy half doors

  5. #25
    JK Super Freak Chuck-The-Ripper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PsychoCupcake View Post
    Not crazy. In fact a lot of people do that from what I understand.
    Good. I've never heard anyone doing it. I told RK that and they sounded shocked. I didn't feel it being much different than tacking u-joint caps, lol.

  6. #26
    JK Junkie kjeeper10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper View Post
    Good. I've never heard anyone doing it. I told RK that and they sounded shocked. I didn't feel it being much different than tacking u-joint caps, lol.
    Theyre prob thinking the tack was going to replace 300 ft lbs of torque lol
    37" Nitto RG's, RK 3.5 x-factor arms, PSC big bore, Steer Smarts HD YETI track bar, tie rod, drag link and Griffin, Artec TB bracket/truss, fox IPF 2.0 shocks, EVO Rock stars, Dana front DS, Savvy half doors

  7. #27
    JK Junkie matt852's Avatar
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    Is there a certain sequence to follow front lowers first then front uppers, is is same for the rear? Lowers first then uppers. Had a shop try to do it for me, they didn't do it right as I ended up with 2 deg positive caster and the shop wouldn't stand behind their work

  8. #28
    JK Super Freak Chuck-The-Ripper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt852 View Post
    Is there a certain sequence to follow front lowers first then front uppers, is is same for the rear? Lowers first then uppers. Had a shop try to do it for me, they didn't do it right as I ended up with 2 deg positive caster and the shop wouldn't stand behind their work
    Typically you want to set your wheelbase with the losers and use the uppers to adjust castor/pinion.

  9. #29
    JK Junkie matt852's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper View Post
    Typically you want to set your wheelbase with the losers and use the uppers to adjust castor/pinion.
    is it lowers for both for the wheelbase I heard the rear uppers were for wheel base?

  10. #30
    JK Junkie kjeeper10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck-The-Ripper View Post
    Typically you want to set your wheelbase with the losers and use the uppers to adjust castor/pinion.
    Who you calling a loser? Lol


    Correct, decide and set your wheelbase with lowers. I prefer to install the lowers, ensure axles are parallel and square, then hold pinion angle where you want it and adjust the uppers to the mount locations. Torque before dropping the jack. Front you can do easily with the tires on the ground. Rear will need to be on stands with tires removed to gain access to the uppers.

    The lowers locate the axles so the settings of each arm are more important. Uppers lengths dont matter as much, setting to the mounts so all 4 bolts slide in/out ensures theres no binding or preload.
    37" Nitto RG's, RK 3.5 x-factor arms, PSC big bore, Steer Smarts HD YETI track bar, tie rod, drag link and Griffin, Artec TB bracket/truss, fox IPF 2.0 shocks, EVO Rock stars, Dana front DS, Savvy half doors

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