So its all about that UP travel, i see. I dont think the front bolt on solutions are bad then unless you want to run less than at LEAST 4" of lift.

The rear bolt ons are another story, and are lacking the desired geometry and travel. Something im looking to change with Tons.

Its not that i dont want to cut the tub for rear towers, i just dont want to loose anymore space on the interior.

 

Notice pics of the Rebel Co jeeps how dam high they are.

 

Yes but i mean barely, your brackets are part of the frame. I redid the whole frame section. With the towers still in the frame its not bad to fill in and box the elements out. I went thru the frame at 15 degrees inward and also forward lean if i recall. My shocks are thru the floor where yours are more so thru the wheel well body if im correctly recalling. Filling in the floor is a bitch. I do still have rear seats also and a fuel cell behind my rear seat all in a 2 door.

 

I went through the cargo area. I like the setups that are out boarded also, but this setup works fantastic and I still have my backseat with plenty of room. Yes there are some drawbacks as the holes in the floor had to be big for the movement of the coilovers, and closing them up from the elements was a lil more difficult. I would say if you have the skills to outboard them on stock axles thats your best best, but its tight. Honestly going thru the tub for me is not a big deal at all and I could always use the brace for a basket or whatever i needed if I needed more room.

 

May i see a pic of how you closed yours in?

 

Ill snap a pic later this afternoon.

 

You said DD and that is the Key word to me. I myself did a 2008 JKUX build with 4” Rockroller lift, with most of the Tie rod and drag link accessories. I also ran 33” With 2.5 Back spacers all the time.

This ended up costing me about 1500+ a year in replacement parts maintenance IE: ball joints, tie ends, power steering gear box etc. And I wore out those fancy $600+ rebuild-able ball joints twice and once with the Moog ends. Just driving around town normally.

My Jeep is a DD 99.5% of the time.

I decided to trade my 2008 X for a 2015 JKUR. I kept my front and rear bumpers with dueling wenches. Then I put armor on the differentials, Full Synergy armor plates from gas tank to oil pan. That lowered my stock hight about 1” in from and 1.25” in rear so I put 1.75” Synergy spacers on the stock coils. Then I bought a second set of Rims with 5” back spacing and put 35” Kevlars for off road use only and a set of cheep thin fender flares to clear the 35’s (to be upgraded later.)

Basically with the 35” and spacers on I got a real lift of around 4” (from stock) with one of the best under armor kits out there. I’m not sure why I get that much lift my speculation is that the 35” tires are holding their roundness better then the stock tires. And if stock parts ware out they are very cheep to replace compared to aftermarket kits. One of my mechanics told me that driving with large tires and back spacing all the time put tones of extra ware on the system. Even though 33” is only 1 inch size bigger than stock the back spacing really stressed out the axels.

So I DD with the stock Robi Tires. They seem to work better in the snow anyway and I live on the side of a mountain. Either set of tires I get a factory style ride all the time and when I deflate the 35”s down to say 15 LBS I get the same cushy ride I got with the 4” lift and 33” tires.

Of course this limits me to intermediate trails but I’m not looking to do a lot of body damage repairs.

My 2 Cents

PS I spent about $4000 with tires, armor and labor. Keep in mind I already had the bumpers and wenches from the old jeep witch is probably another $2000+. I need to get better rock sliders and fender flares ... have to save for now.

 

I would also like to see how you did this. I was thinking that using soft covers would be a good solution as they would be flexible with movement and could be sealed up with Velcro and zippers.

 

That's kind of what I did. Honestly the way i have it now works really well and quieted down and kept everything in and out.

 

Pls elaborate. R Coilovers bad for DD, do they have superior road handling qualities?? I've read they r great onroad. Pls advise