How long are your rear coilovers? And were you able to get them to lean forward a bit?

 

14's. And ya they are angled a bit forward and as close to the wheel as possible. People may hate on it, but it works really well and rides amazing.

Here is a pic of right when I got finished and putting it back together. I am running a rear 3 link also.

 

Yeah the way he did it is what I'm looking at just box in the area in the wheel wells that are cut into. What are some good options for control arms with keeping my stock fuel tank? I was thinking 3 link front and rear? I'm going to do this at the same time as the coilovers

 

I might as well add to this thread.

I just priced out ICON coilovers and brackets. The ones that are 4.5 to 6" lifted.

I can't find a single review of them, but ICONs have an awesome reputation in the off-road community.

Near as I can figure out, all the bolt on coilover kits have similar mounting brackets setups, so the main difference is going to be the coilovers. Icon coilovers are known for durability.

Someone has to be the first to review, so it might be me.

Right now I'm running a RJ60 rear and a PR44 front. In a yet I will probably upgrade to full float rear and 60 front (Mopar probably), at that time, I may convert to a full weld in bracket and see if I can squeeze outboards in the rears.

 

2.5" backspace and 33’s? Probably why you were blowing through balljoints and steering components. . That's a lot of positive scrub

 

That looks good. I see you were fighting the "jk lean" a little bit based on that last picture.

Do you have any ride height pictures with wheels on?

 

Coilovers are not hype but I think the better question is, to ask if the cost is worth the gains. In my opinion It all boils down to your available cash flow and if you are willing to part with it for X amount of improvement. I say this same thing in many threads that ask the question is X better than Y.

My buddy who has had a stock jeep for 3 years because he cant even afford to put spacers on it is now telling me he is thinking about going coilovers. Seriously?

Coilovers are not going to take you anywhere a bolt on coil lift wont in all but the most extreme situations that 99% of people will likely not encounter anyway. My feeling is that if you are going to start down the path of coilovers or struts and high horsepower engine and 60's + save you cash and put it into a purpose built rig. A predominantly production jeep is just not going to see the limits of the benefits some of these improvements may provide. You just end up chasing problems and by the time your done you kick yourself and say dam I should of just built a rig. Now all that said, if you got tons of cash that you don't give a shit about meaning your the type of guy who would take his car into the dealership for an oil change and instead of calling a cab home you just buy another car while your there to get home and pay cash for it, spend away. Again just my opinion others may vary.

 

Don't mean to hijack, but if you were just to get weld-on brackets and needed to build coilovers separate, how do you know what springs to go with them?

For example, I am looking at the fox 2.0 w/ remote resi and 12" travel. Where do I begin with the coils?

 

Thanks. The last pic it was still on the lift checking for clearances, but it does have a lil lean. I have a few more turns on the preload on that side to help with the gansta lean. Ill get some pics posted with how she sits.

 

This is the route I went and it took me some time to figure out, and I had to mess with different rates. There are a lot of factors that come into play. You really need to figure out the ride height you want to run. You also have to weigh the rig, then corner weight for best results. Honestly there are a ton of opinions on how you have to do it, and what spring length and weight you need to run. I should have just used the calculator link below and started that way, but i was lucky enough to be able to swap springs at my local ORW, sometimes they don't allow you too. Other companies will let you exchange springs if they aren't thrashed. You can also start by seeing what other people are doing for spring rates, but it will be different because of angles and setups, but it will give you a good start. But you also have to think of valving as you can run a light spring with stiff valving or vise versa really up to you. But it takes time to set up a non bolt on like those from Rebel or ORE. Even those need tuning and adjusting to get what you want. But a custom built setup for your rig is by far the best way to go about it IMO.

I think there was a thread started on here somewhere with spring rates and valving. If not might be a good idea to start since coil over set ups are getting popular.

Check out these links for some great info. He gives you the calculator for initial rates and also how to re check and change.

Coilover Spring Rate Calculator (Dual Rate Spring Calculator)

Off-Road Coilover Springs | How to Fix Your Coilover Springs