driveshaft ????
The vibration is caused from the pinion angle. With a cv driveshaft the rear pinion needs to be pointed directly at the tcase. Driveshaft and pinion need to be a straight line.
Last edited by IGOFSHN; Apr 24, 2007 at 07:21 AM.
Here's a decent explanation with some images as well.
Would someone explain the pro's and con's of the 3 aftermarket driveshafts listed on page 1. I am going to do a Rubicon Express 3.5 short arm kit with 35 inch tires on a 2 door JK with a 6 speed and 4.10 gears. I guess I need to replace the driveshafts. My jeep will be a daily driver but I want to be able to depend on it to get me where I need to go... work, travel, aggressive off road, and home again.
thanks in advance
,
Ty
thanks in advance
,Ty
Would someone explain the pro's and con's of the 3 aftermarket driveshafts listed on page 1. I am going to do a Rubicon Express 3.5 short arm kit with 35 inch tires on a 2 door JK with a 6 speed and 4.10 gears. I guess I need to replace the driveshafts. My jeep will be a daily driver but I want to be able to depend on it to get me where I need to go... work, travel, aggressive off road, and home again.
thanks in advance
,
Ty
thanks in advance
,Ty
The difference is mainly how heavy duty they are. Honestly, I think most people are keeping stock shafts until they have to be replaced. It looks like there are a lot of JK's with factory shafts out there been used pretty hard and they seem to be holding up. I'm planning on saving my money for now and upgrading when I start hearing about the factory shafts breaking.
The pinion should be 2 degrees below being pointed straight into the drive shaft, according to the site someone posted a link to earlier...
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/
As the name implies, a CV joint keeps the velocity of the drive shaft constant throughout a revolution. In a double cardan type constant velocity joint each joint in the CV assembley will speed up and slow down, just like on a regular drive shaft. The double cardan assembley has a centering mechanism that keeps the angle between the U-joints correct, allowing them to completely cancel out the speeding up and slowing down and spin the drive shaft at a constant speed.
In a perfect world the pinion could be pointed paralell with the drive shaft when using a CV joint so that all four caps on the lower U-joint will spin in the same circle to prevent the single lower U-joint from speeding up and slowing down as it rotates, which would cause a vibration. Unfortunatley, our world isn't perfect and the needle bearings inside a U-joint need to move to stay lubricated. The pinion angle must be 2 degrees below the drive shaft in to cause the needles to move and be lubricated.
In a perfect world the pinion could be pointed paralell with the drive shaft when using a CV joint so that all four caps on the lower U-joint will spin in the same circle to prevent the single lower U-joint from speeding up and slowing down as it rotates, which would cause a vibration. Unfortunatley, our world isn't perfect and the needle bearings inside a U-joint need to move to stay lubricated. The pinion angle must be 2 degrees below the drive shaft in to cause the needles to move and be lubricated.
Thats actually not true.....
The pinion should be 2 degrees below being pointed straight into the drive shaft, according to the site someone posted a link to earlier...
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/
The pinion should be 2 degrees below being pointed straight into the drive shaft, according to the site someone posted a link to earlier...
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/pinionangle/
The difference is mainly how heavy duty they are. Honestly, I think most people are keeping stock shafts until they have to be replaced. It looks like there are a lot of JK's with factory shafts out there been used pretty hard and they seem to be holding up. I'm planning on saving my money for now and upgrading when I start hearing about the factory shafts breaking.


