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driveshaft ????

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Old May 22, 2007 | 03:00 PM
  #31  
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Why no yolk boot for the JE Reel?
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Old May 22, 2007 | 03:45 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by greggradwohl
Why no yolk boot for the JE Reel?
It isn't necessary. My TJ didn't have one and never had a problem.
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Old May 22, 2007 | 03:46 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by bleblanc
I've got a question for you guys. Mine is a daily driver but when I do go offroad, I do some pretty intense rock crawling. Should I upgrade to 1310 or 1350's? Is there that big of differance between the two? Sorry if it's a dumb question but 1310 & 1350 is just a number to me. I would think 1350, obviously because it is a higher number and more expensive. However, is it really worth the extra dough and how much longer will it last? I have no idea, please advise. Thanks!
1350 is definately stronger but I went with the 1310's. That is what was on my TJ and I wheeld some pretty good trails (JV, Rubicon, Sierra's) and never had a problem.
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Old May 22, 2007 | 04:21 PM
  #34  
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This may sound like a dumb question but here it goes. These appear to be the same length as the stock drive shaft. Is that true? If so, is the only reason we are replacing these the slip yoke? I'm just wondering if these drivelines will address all of the problems, pinion, length, slipyoke ect....
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Old May 22, 2007 | 04:54 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by wayoflifette
Here is a pic showing a side by side comparison between the stock driveshaft and the JE Reel driveshaft:



Thanks for the comparison pic. Which JE one is that? Are you running them or is this just a pic you have?
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Old May 22, 2007 | 06:11 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by IGOFSHN
It isn't necessary. My TJ didn't have one and never had a problem.
IGOFSHN,
Can you tell me why the factory one needs one, and not the RE? (not trying to start an argument, just looking for info)
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Old May 22, 2007 | 06:54 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by greggradwohl
IGOFSHN,
Can you tell me why the factory one needs one, and not the RE? (not trying to start an argument, just looking for info)
I don't know about JK factory but TJ shafts which are similiar to the JEReel shafts do not need the boot. It is a dust/moisture barrier. If you take care of your equipment(keep it greased), it isn't needed.
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Old May 22, 2007 | 08:17 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by greggradwohl
Does your shaft rub or is it just the zip tie thing that holds the boot (is metal rubbing)?
THe ring ripped off the boot is torn and it is rubbing metal to metal.
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Old May 22, 2007 | 08:18 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by wayoflifette
Here is a pic showing a side by side comparison between the stock driveshaft and the JE Reel driveshaft:

Thanks for the pic. That answers my question. I know what I need. (1 more thing)
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Old May 23, 2007 | 05:00 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by greggradwohl
Why no yolk boot for the JE Reel?
There is no boot, but there is usually a seal in the cap of the female section of the slip joint. It is also splined to match the male section of the joint.

Originally Posted by Hawkdriver
...is the only reason we are replacing these the slip yoke? I'm just wondering if these drivelines will address all of the problems, pinion, length, slipyoke ect....
1. Large diameter of the stock shafts allows for contact with the automatic transmission umder extreme axle articulation.

2. Perception that stock CV joints/shafts are weak.

3. Easier repairs if a stock CV does break on the trail.
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