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EVO 14" coilovers on a 2 door JK?

Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:18 AM
  #31  
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As nice as that sounds it doesn't work that way. The reluctor ring and pickup has to be there for the ABS to function. No speed sensor means no ABS. Second thing dana 30 or 44 brakes aren't remotely close to fitting over a one ton hub. That's why all the aftermarket axle go from 5 on 4.5 to 5 on 5.5. There are several reasons why you can't rob axles out of another truck and have all the systems work properly.

Last edited by Worthless; Jan 30, 2009 at 09:39 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 02:15 PM
  #32  
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First off, in your post above you made it sound like all you needed was the brakes. So what point are you trying to make???
Remember this kit is only for a rear as of now. That kit basically scraps the factory outers on the rear, you have to buy their "kits" that have a ABS tone ring, shafts and all except brakes. That kit doesn't come with brakes so that's all you need to put the puzzle together AFTER you've bought the Currie products. The fact still stands that you can't just bolt junk yard 60s under a JK and all systems still work. It will cost well more than two thousand to make thier stuff work. You have to have a welder hot enough to burn everything in and have a clue on what you're doing. In the long run after you've bought the axle, blasted it, master install, gears, lockers, diff cover, Currie's components and all the time putting it together you still won't come out that much farther ahead. You need numerous tools and knowledge to be able to do that yourself also. So lets throw some number together on a D60, these are just average numbers, no shipping, tax, labor or anything.
600 for shafts
260 for end caps
135 diff cover
570 Detroit Locker
170 master install
220 gears
90 spicer 1350 yoke, maybe not needed


That's about 2k, you still need brackets, and the ito nstall that kit
Guess what, you still don't have a warranty, superior oiling housing or thicker tubes. Just buy Solid, Dynatrac, or Currie and be done and ready to bolt in.

Originally Posted by scottg07
hmm that's interesting cause in this thread currie agrees it will work as long as you use their Axle Shafts, Housing Ends and brackets in the attempt of putting your own d60 together.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-show-tell-33/salvaged-dana-60s-jk-brackets-69895/

similar question




Answer

Last edited by Worthless; Jan 30, 2009 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 02:41 PM
  #33  
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Default Axles

I went with Dynatrac 60's because SLC made me a great deal on them. ESP works fine with these axles.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 03:07 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SONIC
You could easily trim up the rear of the 4dr like the rockKrawler 2rd.
Im not saying its better, just dont see the point of getting a 2dr if youre going to make it the length of a 4 dr.
Get a 4dr and weld up the rear half doors and make it truck like IMO
Its not worth it if you want a serious rig, your departing angles would be horrible with a 4 door.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:17 PM
  #35  
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For those that don't understand "approach and departure angles"

here are some examples.....just imagine a straight wall to the rear of these two Jeeps.


....first the 4-door...notice how the body of this vehicle would be making contact with the "invisible wall" with already 116" wheel base (already too long in my opinion, thus no room to stretch)






Now the 2-door....notice the tires will be the first to make contact with the "invisible wall"....with a similar wheel base of the 4-door





Thus allowing this to happen






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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:29 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 2Stroke
I am running 40's with D60's and the full evo kit. I went with the 12" coilovers and I am glad I did. I ended up having to put limiting straps on the front to keep my front driveshaft out of the exhaust system. I don't want to lift my jeep any higher than necessary to keep the cg as low as possible for all the off camber wheelin we do around here.
Glad to see you running the EVO systems. Our Evo 12" and 14" coilover kit are the LOWEST COG coilover kits available today.

There actually is very little difference in COG between the 12" system and 14" system when running 40" tires. You have to vertially bump the front axle up at a certain point to clear a 40" tire no matter what coilover you are running. Our front shock towers are specifically engineered to bump a 37" tire on a 12" shock just before the tire would contact the fender and 40" will do the same with a 14" (actual tire sizes do vary so some trimming may be required on stock fender). What this means is that just because you are running a 12" travel coilover on a 40" tire does not mean that you will have a lower COG because you are bump stopping the axle at the same point vertically inorder to prevent the tire from contacting the fender. With this in mind, if you have 4" of vertical uptravel from ride height with a 12" coilover and 4" of vertical uptravel from ride height with a 14" coilover and your tire is clearing the fender at full articulation with both shock setups then you will have the same COG, except you are sacrificing 2" of usable travel with 12" coilovers and 40's will actually in essence turn into a 10" travel shock.

As for the limit straps needed to limit the driveline from hitting the exhaust, for the same price/time as the limit straps, we recommend taking the jeep to an exhaust shop and having the AEV/Burnville crossover pipe lowered 1" (still above crossmember) and been good to go with 14" coilovers. This is for HEMI's ONLY. Limit straps are still a great upgrade, especially when jumping the Jeep.

We have discussed the exhaust with the Engineers at AEV and are working on a kit for long travel off road JK's.

AEV 6.1 Exhaust modified to work with 14" coilover, pretty simple fix...





Conclusion: Off Road Evolution recommend's 14" travel shocks with 40+" tires with the EVO Flex system. Double ThrowDown is a whole different ball game...

Last edited by Evolution; Jan 30, 2009 at 04:38 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:37 PM
  #37  
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Do you ever do any extensive cross member modifications to help with clearance?
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 05:23 PM
  #38  
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Thanks for the great correction / clarification. I'm looking forward to wheel as is, I may look into modifying the exhaust and tweaking the front later. We did not have to trim any bodywork but did have to push the axles a few inches.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 05:48 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 2Stroke
Thanks for the great correction / clarification. I'm looking forward to wheel as is, I may look into modifying the exhaust and tweaking the front later. We did not have to trim any bodywork but did have to push the axles a few inches.
Awesome. Wheel it as is and have fun!
From your signiture, it seams you definately have one of the sickest JK's out there.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 10:07 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by x No Compromise Offroad x
For those that don't understand "approach and departure angles"

here are some examples.....just imagine a straight wall to the rear of these two Jeeps.


....first the 4-door...notice how the body of this vehicle would be making contact with the "invisible wall" with already 116" wheel base (already too long in my opinion, thus no room to stretch)



Now the 2-door....notice the tires will be the first to make contact with the "invisible wall"....with a similar wheel base of the 4-door


Thus allowing this to happen


How far would the rear axle on a 2 door JK have to be pushed to get 38" tires to protrude past the rear bumper? How important would this be for running trails such as Blanca and Independence (in CO)? I hear these are some of the hardest in the state, rated 10/10 and requiring minimum of dual lockers, 35" tires and body armor.
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