locked front options
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JK Newbie
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Iowa
locked front options
locked front options
I've decided a selectable locked front end is a necessity in my style of wheeling, with a mostly stock daily driver. '09 X, 2 door, 3.21 gears, 6 speed manual. I got Super Swamper SX 32x11.50-15 for off road, and mostly ride on the factory street tread tires as my daily driver. No lift yet, but a 2.5 coil is on the wish list. Off road terrain consists of mid-west trails, ravines, uneven hill climbs, creek crossings, and sloppy sticky river bottom mud.
The X is still fairly capable, but my confidence in the vehicle is low at best. I wheel with a couple of FJ Cruiser buddies and the thought is if I can make it they can too. For once I want to get through where they can't. They main advantage they have is (i think) their rear selectable locker.
A couple of questions:
1. Would this mod increase my 4x4 enjoyment?
I'm guessing yes, but wasn't sure if I was skipping to far ahead in the mod order...
I've also read that a built D30 is "well let's just say it ain't a D44". So I was leaning towards a ProRock44, with 4.88 gears and a electric locker. Since I have the X I assume I can not reuse anything.
2. What other parts and pieces will need to be purchased to complete the ProRock44? Brake calipers, rotors, hubs, bearings, etc.?
Know since I am changing the gear ratio in my front I will need to do the same for the rear. I don't want to spend a lot on the rear, but also don't want to redo work later.
3. Is all i need for the rear is the gears (ring and pinion)? will my factory TruTrac (or what ever it's called) still be used?
4. And finally my last question, what will all this cost? Budgetary numbers. Parts and Labor. I realize labor will fluctuate between area, but budgetary numbers at this point will do.
Thanks and cheers
I've decided a selectable locked front end is a necessity in my style of wheeling, with a mostly stock daily driver. '09 X, 2 door, 3.21 gears, 6 speed manual. I got Super Swamper SX 32x11.50-15 for off road, and mostly ride on the factory street tread tires as my daily driver. No lift yet, but a 2.5 coil is on the wish list. Off road terrain consists of mid-west trails, ravines, uneven hill climbs, creek crossings, and sloppy sticky river bottom mud.
The X is still fairly capable, but my confidence in the vehicle is low at best. I wheel with a couple of FJ Cruiser buddies and the thought is if I can make it they can too. For once I want to get through where they can't. They main advantage they have is (i think) their rear selectable locker.
A couple of questions:
1. Would this mod increase my 4x4 enjoyment?
I'm guessing yes, but wasn't sure if I was skipping to far ahead in the mod order...
I've also read that a built D30 is "well let's just say it ain't a D44". So I was leaning towards a ProRock44, with 4.88 gears and a electric locker. Since I have the X I assume I can not reuse anything.
2. What other parts and pieces will need to be purchased to complete the ProRock44? Brake calipers, rotors, hubs, bearings, etc.?
Know since I am changing the gear ratio in my front I will need to do the same for the rear. I don't want to spend a lot on the rear, but also don't want to redo work later.
3. Is all i need for the rear is the gears (ring and pinion)? will my factory TruTrac (or what ever it's called) still be used?
4. And finally my last question, what will all this cost? Budgetary numbers. Parts and Labor. I realize labor will fluctuate between area, but budgetary numbers at this point will do.
Thanks and cheers
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: East Texas
Originally Posted by coffeebean
locked front options
A couple of questions:
1. Would this mod increase my 4x4 enjoyment?
I'm guessing yes, but wasn't sure if I was skipping to far ahead in the mod order...
I've also read that a built D30 is "well let's just say it ain't a D44". So I was leaning towards a ProRock44, with 4.88 gears and a electric locker. Since I have the X I assume I can not reuse anything.
2. What other parts and pieces will need to be purchased to complete the ProRock44? Brake calipers, rotors, hubs, bearings, etc.?
Know since I am changing the gear ratio in my front I will need to do the same for the rear. I don't want to spend a lot on the rear, but also don't want to redo work later.
4. And finally my last question, what will all this cost? Budgetary numbers. Parts and Labor. I realize labor will fluctuate between area, but budgetary numbers at this point will do.
Thanks and cheers
A couple of questions:
1. Would this mod increase my 4x4 enjoyment?
I'm guessing yes, but wasn't sure if I was skipping to far ahead in the mod order...
I've also read that a built D30 is "well let's just say it ain't a D44". So I was leaning towards a ProRock44, with 4.88 gears and a electric locker. Since I have the X I assume I can not reuse anything.
2. What other parts and pieces will need to be purchased to complete the ProRock44? Brake calipers, rotors, hubs, bearings, etc.?
Know since I am changing the gear ratio in my front I will need to do the same for the rear. I don't want to spend a lot on the rear, but also don't want to redo work later.
4. And finally my last question, what will all this cost? Budgetary numbers. Parts and Labor. I realize labor will fluctuate between area, but budgetary numbers at this point will do.
Thanks and cheers
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
If you keep the D30, get the eaton e-locker.
If you move to a PR44, the ARB is probably your best choice. How you set it up is totally a personal preference, so do a little research. Probably the least expensive option would be alloy inner shafts, gears of your choice, factory bj's, and an ARB. (a bit over 4k, depending on your options) Then you would re-use your stock 32sp outers, brakes, knuckles.
Upgrading to rcv's and ProSteers would add a thousand or so. Going with a manual hub option would make it a custom build, and you will need to contact them for pricing.
For the rear, yes, the stock limited will still work. And you will need gears to match the front and an overhaul kit.
Expect to pay a few hundred for shipping, a few hundred to swap your d30 parts onto the PR and install it, and maybe $400 labor for the rear gears?
If you move to a PR44, the ARB is probably your best choice. How you set it up is totally a personal preference, so do a little research. Probably the least expensive option would be alloy inner shafts, gears of your choice, factory bj's, and an ARB. (a bit over 4k, depending on your options) Then you would re-use your stock 32sp outers, brakes, knuckles.
Upgrading to rcv's and ProSteers would add a thousand or so. Going with a manual hub option would make it a custom build, and you will need to contact them for pricing.
For the rear, yes, the stock limited will still work. And you will need gears to match the front and an overhaul kit.
Expect to pay a few hundred for shipping, a few hundred to swap your d30 parts onto the PR and install it, and maybe $400 labor for the rear gears?
Last edited by nthinuf; Feb 8, 2011 at 05:17 PM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: The Gorge, Oregon
With those off road tires, I would be careful with that D30.. And since you have a manual tranny it's the shock on the ring and pinion that can cause you problems in a tight spot especially when you are spinning those tires, and grab some rocks for traction with those heavy bad@ss SX swampers..
I would just get an aussie locker (non selectable) for now in the front, and wheel the D30 till it hurts.. then upgrade.. Cheapest bang for the buck in getting traction offroad..
This setup has actually done pretty well for some people on here provided you don't whale on it too hard.. Then put some money on a lift..
searching "aussie locker" will help you alot if you consider this.. But I understand you wanted a selectable instead, which is more desireable..
Just sayin' a quick Aussie locker install would give you the same traction offroad as the way more expensive units out there. If you are spending "more" money on gears then it kind of deafeats the purpose of the aussie install. I hope this helps.
So get the Aussie and spank the FJ's... for a lot cheaper!
I would just get an aussie locker (non selectable) for now in the front, and wheel the D30 till it hurts.. then upgrade.. Cheapest bang for the buck in getting traction offroad..
This setup has actually done pretty well for some people on here provided you don't whale on it too hard.. Then put some money on a lift..searching "aussie locker" will help you alot if you consider this.. But I understand you wanted a selectable instead, which is more desireable..
Just sayin' a quick Aussie locker install would give you the same traction offroad as the way more expensive units out there. If you are spending "more" money on gears then it kind of deafeats the purpose of the aussie install. I hope this helps.
So get the Aussie and spank the FJ's... for a lot cheaper!
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 4
From: Huntington Beach, CA
locked front options
I've decided a selectable locked front end is a necessity in my style of wheeling, with a mostly stock daily driver. '09 X, 2 door, 3.21 gears, 6 speed manual. I got Super Swamper SX 32x11.50-15 for off road, and mostly ride on the factory street tread tires as my daily driver. No lift yet, but a 2.5 coil is on the wish list. Off road terrain consists of mid-west trails, ravines, uneven hill climbs, creek crossings, and sloppy sticky river bottom mud.
The X is still fairly capable, but my confidence in the vehicle is low at best. I wheel with a couple of FJ Cruiser buddies and the thought is if I can make it they can too. For once I want to get through where they can't. They main advantage they have is (i think) their rear selectable locker.
A couple of questions:
1. Would this mod increase my 4x4 enjoyment?
I'm guessing yes, but wasn't sure if I was skipping to far ahead in the mod order...
I've also read that a built D30 is "well let's just say it ain't a D44". So I was leaning towards a ProRock44, with 4.88 gears and a electric locker. Since I have the X I assume I can not reuse anything. nthinuf said it all
2. What other parts and pieces will need to be purchased to complete the ProRock44? Brake calipers, rotors, hubs, bearings, etc.? Many D30 conversion customer are using RCV shafts. As an option, you can retain your stock outer shafts and just purchase new inner shafts. You will retain your current steering knuckles (with bearings) and brakes.
Know since I am changing the gear ratio in my front I will need to do the same for the rear. I don't want to spend a lot on the rear, but also don't want to redo work later.
3. Is all i need for the rear is the gears (ring and pinion)? will my factory TruTrac (or what ever it's called) still be used? Your factory diff if it's an LSD is a Trac Loc. They are marginal at best. If you can't afford to change it when you do the gears, I'd plan to change it out as soon as funds are available.
4. And finally my last question, what will all this cost? Budgetary numbers. Parts and Labor. I realize labor will fluctuate between area, but budgetary numbers at this point will do. This answer, obviously, depends on which way you go. A fully loaded ProRock44 (Unlimited, RCVs, ARB, Dynatrac ball joints, crate and freight) will be run just over $5,500.
I've decided a selectable locked front end is a necessity in my style of wheeling, with a mostly stock daily driver. '09 X, 2 door, 3.21 gears, 6 speed manual. I got Super Swamper SX 32x11.50-15 for off road, and mostly ride on the factory street tread tires as my daily driver. No lift yet, but a 2.5 coil is on the wish list. Off road terrain consists of mid-west trails, ravines, uneven hill climbs, creek crossings, and sloppy sticky river bottom mud.
The X is still fairly capable, but my confidence in the vehicle is low at best. I wheel with a couple of FJ Cruiser buddies and the thought is if I can make it they can too. For once I want to get through where they can't. They main advantage they have is (i think) their rear selectable locker.
A couple of questions:
1. Would this mod increase my 4x4 enjoyment?
I'm guessing yes, but wasn't sure if I was skipping to far ahead in the mod order...
I've also read that a built D30 is "well let's just say it ain't a D44". So I was leaning towards a ProRock44, with 4.88 gears and a electric locker. Since I have the X I assume I can not reuse anything. nthinuf said it all
2. What other parts and pieces will need to be purchased to complete the ProRock44? Brake calipers, rotors, hubs, bearings, etc.? Many D30 conversion customer are using RCV shafts. As an option, you can retain your stock outer shafts and just purchase new inner shafts. You will retain your current steering knuckles (with bearings) and brakes.
Know since I am changing the gear ratio in my front I will need to do the same for the rear. I don't want to spend a lot on the rear, but also don't want to redo work later.
3. Is all i need for the rear is the gears (ring and pinion)? will my factory TruTrac (or what ever it's called) still be used? Your factory diff if it's an LSD is a Trac Loc. They are marginal at best. If you can't afford to change it when you do the gears, I'd plan to change it out as soon as funds are available.
4. And finally my last question, what will all this cost? Budgetary numbers. Parts and Labor. I realize labor will fluctuate between area, but budgetary numbers at this point will do. This answer, obviously, depends on which way you go. A fully loaded ProRock44 (Unlimited, RCVs, ARB, Dynatrac ball joints, crate and freight) will be run just over $5,500.
I know this will not please everyone but I feel that a Dana 30, even one fully polished, that gets used on moderate trails with a good driver, is not a good long term solution.
JK Newbie
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
From: Mansfield Texas
I say change the gears front and rear, and put in a selectable locker in the rear. Build it up since you know you are keeping it. Wheel the D30, and it will do fine with the new gears. I however would suggest c gussets on the front. I have wheeled my D30 for a couple of years now and have 5.13, c gussets, diff cover, and arb air locker. It rides on 35" Toyo MTs and does fine. I too want to upgrage to the ProRock 44, but that is still in the future.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
JK Newbie
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Sunriver, OR
complete Rubi 44 front assembly?
If you move to a PR44, the ARB is probably your best choice. How you set it up is totally a personal preference, so do a little research. Probably the least expensive option would be alloy inner shafts, gears of your choice, factory bj's, and an ARB. (a bit over 4k, depending on your options) Then you would re-use your stock 32sp outers, brakes, knuckles.
Upgrading to rcv's and ProSteers would add a thousand or so. Going with a manual hub option would make it a custom build, and you will need to contact them for pricing.
Expect to pay a few hundred for shipping, a few hundred to swap your d30 parts onto the PR and install it
Upgrading to rcv's and ProSteers would add a thousand or so. Going with a manual hub option would make it a custom build, and you will need to contact them for pricing.
Expect to pay a few hundred for shipping, a few hundred to swap your d30 parts onto the PR and install it
What about buying and dropping in a new complete Rubicon D44 front axle assembly? They're listed in online catalogues for about $2,999. Seems like it would be a big leap forward without too much complication. Or does that just get us to the next stage of dreaming about ARB lockers, gussets, 5.13's........
Do like KEY's straightforward, bang for the buck aproach. Upgrade what will help the most with the least outlay, and use up the rest since you already have it before making the big outlay.
Last edited by Brentmo; Feb 8, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
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JK Jedi Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 165
From: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
We noobs with D30 X's spend our days thinking about this stuff and our nights dreaming about it.
What about buying and dropping in a new complete Rubicon D44 front axle assembly? They're listed in online catalogues for about $2,999. Seems like it would be a big leap forward without too much complication. Or does that just get us to the next stage of dreaming about ARB lockers, gussets, 5.13's........
Do like KEY's straightforward, bang for the buck aproach. Upgrade what will help the most with the least outlay, and use up the rest since you already have it before making the big outlay.
What about buying and dropping in a new complete Rubicon D44 front axle assembly? They're listed in online catalogues for about $2,999. Seems like it would be a big leap forward without too much complication. Or does that just get us to the next stage of dreaming about ARB lockers, gussets, 5.13's........
Do like KEY's straightforward, bang for the buck aproach. Upgrade what will help the most with the least outlay, and use up the rest since you already have it before making the big outlay.
Add up the costs for that new rubi axle, and see what you come up with:
Rubi front 44 - $3000
Gears - $600-$800 depending on area (since it comes with 4.10's)
Wiring and switches for the locker (haven't priced it, but $150?)
Sleeves, Gussets, Truss, Skids, Alloy shafts, HD mounts, etc. - $1500 ?
And you end up with a built up 'stock' axle that is more expensive than a PR, and is still a lot weaker.
Just my opinion, but the only time a Rubi44 makes sense is if you already have one. (or possibly if you can score a killer deal on a used axle and plan a slow build?) Buying one new for 3k is just throwing money away.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 1
From: Olean NY
I am going through the same dilemma right now and money is an issue for me. I have decided to leave the front open for now and lock the rear with ARB and regear keeping the Dana 30 open and getting gussets and sleeves during the regear. I would love a pro-rock but that doubles the amount of my build. It has taken me a long time to save up for this and dont want to put off regear any longer. I plan on wheeling my dana 30 open, hoping it will last 4 years. Once the jeep is paid off, I will put my payments towards upgrading the front axle and getting 37s. Until then, its max 35s with open front.
JK Freak
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 815
Likes: 1
From: Cody, Wyoming
2. ARB locker, plus new carrier (you have 3.21 gears), install = $1,500
3. gear change $1,000
4. new pr 44 $5,500 + gear change in rear $500 = $6,000
5. cost difference from x to a rubi = $6,000 (no, I'm not gona say it)
As you can see go get an Aussie, install your self, and have a fun.