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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by sQuid
So I'm thinking the front is going to be a bit tougher because of the steering adjustment and front driveshaft disconnection. Is that true?

The rear had a few difficulties but not too bad, plus I was just getting the hang of things as this was my first lift and dealing with some new tools.
What? driveshaft disconnection?? You don't have to disconnect anything on your driveshaft man. Just the sway bar links and shocks. nothing else needs to be disconnected. not even the track bar, nor tierod, nor drag link, nothing else. see my tips above for getting the coils back in...
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 10:33 AM
  #42  
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I may be putting my TF 2.5 lift on Wed. I will be doing on my garage. Is there a way to ckeck my caster myself? Also, should/can I check the camber/toe? Should I check any of them? I know most have said that this lift should not mess any of those up, but just want to make sure. How much axleshift should I not worry about (4dr) and at what point should I get concerned?
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 10:42 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ThinkMud
What? driveshaft disconnection?? You don't have to disconnect anything on your driveshaft man. Just the sway bar links and shocks. nothing else needs to be disconnected. not even the track bar, nor tierod, nor drag link, nothing else. see my tips above for getting the coils back in...
Ah, I see... yeah the write-up mentions disconnecting the driveshaft to get the springs out/in.... I'd rather not so I may try your idea instead. I get a little nervous messing around compressed springs.


That will help - the less i have to disconnect, the better. Getting that rear sway bar back in and bolted up was pretty tough.
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 10:56 AM
  #44  
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here is an awesome write up on aligning your toe in, and centering the steering wheel. It is written for a TJ, but works for the JK as well.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html

As far as compress springs, once you disconnect the sway bar links and pull the shocks off, the front axle will drop (I suggest having a jack under the axle so it doesn't stress out the brake lines) then just lower the axle down and the springs will be easy to get off. and easy to get back on, except the pass. side, that one is tight with the spacers back in. that is where I used the bottle jack from a TJ to put inbetween the axle and frame, I think i placed it ontop of the lower control arm...

good luck!
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Old Sep 24, 2007 | 11:27 AM
  #45  
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I (and a buddy from the Jeep club) put mine on yesterday. It took about 5 1/2 hours all together (I did go back later to replace the shorter stock front sway bars with the stock rear ones.)

Getting the springs back on was the trickiest part until we stumbled on the trick of using the stock tire jack to spread the axle & get extra clearance - didn't figure that out till we were working on the back end though.

No squirrliness (4 door) in driving yet. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it and it wasn't that hard.

I do think that the stock tires (P255/75R17) look too small now; time to start saving up $...anyone got a recommendation?
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 11:51 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by ThinkMud
What? driveshaft disconnection?? You don't have to disconnect anything on your driveshaft man. Just the sway bar links and shocks. nothing else needs to be disconnected. not even the track bar, nor tierod, nor drag link, nothing else. see my tips above for getting the coils back in...
I'm going to do the front lift this evening... I hope you are right about not disconnected the driveshaft and even track bar -- that would save quite a bit of time. In the rear that would have saved me a bunch of time.

do you have a pic of where you placed the jack to spread the axle from the frame to get the springs in/out?
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:01 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by sQuid
I'm going to do the front lift this evening... I hope you are right about not disconnected the driveshaft and even track bar -- that would save quite a bit of time. In the rear that would have saved me a bunch of time.

do you have a pic of where you placed the jack to spread the axle from the frame to get the springs in/out?

you can get the springs out easy, just putting back in is the hard part. I put the jack in between the lower control arm and the frame I believe. You can just look around for a good spot that looks secure and try it.

Good luck man.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:06 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by ThinkMud
you can get the springs out easy, just putting back in is the hard part. I put the jack in between the lower control arm and the frame I believe. You can just look around for a good spot that looks secure and try it.

Good luck man.
Thank you, sir!

Just hoping I can wrap this up tonight as I need to drive the Jeep tomorrow. Think one guy can knock out just the front in about 2-3 hours?


I'm so pumped... I got the new tires mounted last night and they look fantastic. I'll post pics once the lift is complete and with the new "shoes"

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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by sQuid
Thank you, sir!

Just hoping I can wrap this up tonight as I need to drive the Jeep tomorrow. Think one guy can knock out just the front in about 2-3 hours?


I'm so pumped... I got the new tires mounted last night and they look fantastic. I'll post pics once the lift is complete and with the new "shoes"

It took me about 2 to do the front by myself. The front passenger spring was a pain to get back in. I had to get it close and then "persuaded" it the rest of the way in The brake lines had me nervous too, it seemed like they were really stretching when I put that spring in.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:19 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by bly109
It took me about 2 to do the front by myself. The front passenger spring was a pain to get back in. I had to get it close and then "persuaded" it the rest of the way in The brake lines had me nervous too, it seemed like they were really stretching when I put that spring in.
Why is the passenger spring so different from the driver side? (sorry haven't looked under there yet).

I'm wondering if it might be easier to disconnect the front driveshaft like the write-up shows?
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