I have the PSC Brawler rockers, they work great. I have come down on them hard after going over a rock, used them as a pivot point to go around a rock, and they have worked great.

 

Nah, I didn't think you were bagging on PSC. I misunderstood ya, when you mentioned they only tie into the tub. I was just clarifying for the op, they tie into the mounts at the frame and the tub. In addition they tie into the bottom of the tub and side plates, he was looking to cover up the tub damage. Agree they both make kick ass stuff and can't go wrong with either. I'd say it'd boil down to a weld on or bolt on application wanted.

 

Based on your pics, it's most likely just the fender pushed up a little bit. This will make the look look like it's off, but I doubt your door moved at all. When I took my fiances Jeep apart after she got t-boned the door was still in the same factory spot. Only damage was a bend in the bottom of the door, but the rocker panel and fenders had been crushed inwards.

Don't worry much about it. It looks like nothing from the pics and most likely is nothing lol And if you got the rocker guards they'd cover any damage along the rocker and bottom of fender and rear quarter panel. As long as you use lots of glue/silicone around it nothing will get between the body and the rocker guards. I'll post up a pic of the body with everything removed if I can off my cell so you can see what's behind there. You really have nothing to worry about though, once you unbolt the rails and loosen the fender up along the bottom.

 

So I just went out and measured the door gaps on each side. There is easily an 1/8 of an inch difference and then I spotted that the paint was actually cracked and flaked. Looks like its gonna have to fixed for sure. :( Smaller gap is from the driver side.

 

You got lucky there. Barely any damage. See if the dealer has any paint colour matched to your Jeep. Then you could just feather it down a little there and paint it. That area will get covered by rockguards. And I'm not sure any bodyshop or dealer would even fix a nick in the paint for you. Well they probably would but that's just be insane to pay them to do it

So it's the rear gap not the front gap your measuring there..right?

As far as the measurements go, measure all gaps and see. It may be off from the factory. I honestly can't see your door getting shifted unless you actually hit the door and caught it on a rock. Then your door would be toast anyways. There's almost no way your damage caused that door to be shifted back unless your fender is pressed up against your door and you can't even open the door. After taking a JK apart I honestly can't see it happening with that little of damage, so I'm gonna say it's not perfect from the factory and you just realized it now.

Look at the bottom door hinge and see if it's bent. That's easy enough to tell and if it's been bent, that'll push your door further back. Then you just have to either take it off, straighten it out (free) or order a need hinge in and have it painted ($100-200) and you'll be fine then. But before jumping to any conclusions, you have to remove the rails first, then loosen the fender bolts at the bottom and inside the door to check if it's been bent at all.

 

^^

Okay, thanks for the details. I will pull the rails tonight. Wait till tomorrow to see what things look like in the daylight since it will be dark when I get off work.

It is the rear gap on the door. It was not like that from the factory. I spent over 20 hours detailing it and prepping it for winter 2-3 weeks ago. I feel like it would have really jumped out to me then. I will work on the door hinge piece as well tonight. Door wasn't hit so I thought it was odd as well that it got moved. Do you think the fender could have moved up so much as to bend the A-pillar? You said it was mostly hallow back there. Where else does the panel connect besides the bolts on the bottom and the bolts inside the door jam?

 

Without major damage to your fender there's no way your pillar would have bent anywhere to push your door out. The only way your door would've been moved is if the door was hit and the hinges were bent. Jeeps like most vehicles are made up of panels spot welded to each other, making the insides hollow. So when you do get a dent its just a dent on the exterior panel and typically doesn't reach enough to affect the panel that's welded to it.

And for the fender to bend the pillar, that's impossible. It'll crumple and the tabs where it's bolted down will bend before it bends the panels behind it. For the fender there's one bolt in the center between the two door hinges and one bolt at foot level on the door sill. Then you've got 2 or 3 (I forget) along the bottom of the fender going into the pinch seem. Then you've got a few on the top. All you need to do is unbolt the rails, bend the pinch seem back straight and then look at the fender. Open the door and you'll see the fenders tab that's bolted down and if it's bent you'll notice it right away.

 

I bent my rock slider up going up Rocker Knocker in Moab, but the Rock Slider saved the body and its still all good.

When I replace my rock sliders ill be going with frame mounted ones, anything attached to the body is stupid IMO

 

Can you help the knucklehead on the thread (me) understand how these skins would have helped the OP in this case? If he had just your rock sliders w/ out the skins, seems to me he or anybody would be well protected and the skins are more ornamental than anything else.

Don't get me wrong, love your guys' product. Just trying to understand the functionality of skins and justify whether or not I put them in the budget.

 

The armor is 1/4" thick witch is thick enough to stop most bullets.