Superchips Flashpaq for JK, Initial Impressions
oppps my Bad
Running 93 octane really gives a lot of noticable performance but engine pings. So I backed off to 91 Octane still great but not like 93 tune.
I have been adding octane booster with 97 octane fuel over here so will try again now after 4 tanks running on 91 octane settings.
Running 93 octane really gives a lot of noticable performance but engine pings. So I backed off to 91 Octane still great but not like 93 tune.
I have been adding octane booster with 97 octane fuel over here so will try again now after 4 tanks running on 91 octane settings.
oppps my Bad
Running 93 octane really gives a lot of noticable performance but engine pings. So I backed off to 91 Octane still great but not like 93 tune.
I have been adding octane booster with 97 octane fuel over here so will try again now after 4 tanks running on 91 octane settings.
Running 93 octane really gives a lot of noticable performance but engine pings. So I backed off to 91 Octane still great but not like 93 tune.
I have been adding octane booster with 97 octane fuel over here so will try again now after 4 tanks running on 91 octane settings.
Watch out... A lot of octane booster is snake oil. They'll say stuff like "Raises octane 6 points!" That means it raises the octane rating 0.6.
And if you think about it logically that makes sense. If you have an 18 gallon fuel tank nearly full of 97 RON and add in a quart of straight toulene (121 octane RON) you'd end up with (97 * 17.5 + 121 * 0.5)/18 = 97.6 octane (tada 6 points).
Has anyone ever ran the Hypertech before getting the SC flashpack? If so is the difference in power from the SC enough to ditch the Hypertech and purchase the SC...If there is a dramatic difference I will definately purchase one...Thanks...
I am LOST
what are you talking about educate me a little easy on formulas 
what are you talking about educate me a little easy on formulas 
Watch out... A lot of octane booster is snake oil. They'll say stuff like "Raises octane 6 points!" That means it raises the octane rating 0.6.
And if you think about it logically that makes sense. If you have an 18 gallon fuel tank nearly full of 97 RON and add in a quart of straight toulene (121 octane RON) you'd end up with (97 * 17.5 + 121 * 0.5)/18 = 97.6 octane (tada 6 points).
And if you think about it logically that makes sense. If you have an 18 gallon fuel tank nearly full of 97 RON and add in a quart of straight toulene (121 octane RON) you'd end up with (97 * 17.5 + 121 * 0.5)/18 = 97.6 octane (tada 6 points).
You want it to learn/adapt to the new conditions so it can react accordingly.
Toulene is one of the highest octane components of fuel and usually a component (if not the only component) of an octane booster. A lot of turbo guys (Evos, WRX, etc) will purchase straight toulene and add large amounts to truely raise their octane (like 1 gallon of toulene for every 10 gallons of premium). Toulene has an octane rating of 121 RON.
My formula is a simple averaging of octane ratings between the 17.5 gallons of 97 RON and the 0.5 gallons of the 121 octane toulene which is probably what your octane booster is.
So if we average it out (extra parenthesis added for clarity) ((17.5 gallons premium * 97 RON) + (0.5 gallons octane booster * 121 RON)) / 18 total gallons = 97.6 RON average octane rating.
The nomenclature these octane boosters use (i.e. raises octane X points) is deceiving. The points they speak of are tenths. So in this example they might claim it raises the octane 6 points even though your effective octane is only going from 97.0 to 97.6.
If you want to make a serious improvement to your octane rating, find a source for clean straight toulene and add it 1 gallon toulene to 10 gallons premium fuel. Then the math will look like this
((16.2 gallons premium * 97 octane) + (1.8 gallons toulene * 121 RON)) / 18 total gallons = 99.4 RON
This is awefully expensive though unless you're running a Supra, WRX, Evo or something else where getting an extra 3 octane points can result in the ability to run more boost and more ignition timing and make an additions 50 horsepower to the wheels.
In fact alot of the Evo and WRX guys are going to methanol injection systems which are much more cost effective octane boosters. They use their existing windsheild wiper fluid resevoir and windshield wiper fluid motor to inject winshield wiper fluid (i.e. methanol). It's controlled by a computer and only injected when necessary. It's very ingenious and cost effective.
My formula is a simple averaging of octane ratings between the 17.5 gallons of 97 RON and the 0.5 gallons of the 121 octane toulene which is probably what your octane booster is.
So if we average it out (extra parenthesis added for clarity) ((17.5 gallons premium * 97 RON) + (0.5 gallons octane booster * 121 RON)) / 18 total gallons = 97.6 RON average octane rating.
The nomenclature these octane boosters use (i.e. raises octane X points) is deceiving. The points they speak of are tenths. So in this example they might claim it raises the octane 6 points even though your effective octane is only going from 97.0 to 97.6.
If you want to make a serious improvement to your octane rating, find a source for clean straight toulene and add it 1 gallon toulene to 10 gallons premium fuel. Then the math will look like this
((16.2 gallons premium * 97 octane) + (1.8 gallons toulene * 121 RON)) / 18 total gallons = 99.4 RON
This is awefully expensive though unless you're running a Supra, WRX, Evo or something else where getting an extra 3 octane points can result in the ability to run more boost and more ignition timing and make an additions 50 horsepower to the wheels.
In fact alot of the Evo and WRX guys are going to methanol injection systems which are much more cost effective octane boosters. They use their existing windsheild wiper fluid resevoir and windshield wiper fluid motor to inject winshield wiper fluid (i.e. methanol). It's controlled by a computer and only injected when necessary. It's very ingenious and cost effective.
Toluene is a very dangerous chemical that can be absorbed through the skin. It collects in fatty tissue and through the lungs. If you don't have a serious need for this stuff stay away. Also, if you do use it make sure you have the appropriate equipment for handling it, ie gloves, respirator and goggles.
Mashing the throttle a few times as people are prone to do after such upgrades will also force a re-learn of the PCM. Going completely to stock and then back is what is most likely to throw some CELs and DTCs until it gets straightened around, which again will take at minimum a tankful of gas.


